If I'm reading you correctly, you've almost got this...

Take 4 batteries...A, B, C, and D.

Each of those pairs get wired up into series, so you end up with 2 sets of batteries in series, each set @ 7.4v 2500mah, to use your example.

AB and CD

Take Set AB, and wire it in parallel with set BC, and you double the capacity while maintaining the voltage.

AB+CD
The way you described it, it sounded like you have A and B wired in Series, to get 7.4v, then C wired parallel to D to double the amps @ 3.7v...

do you guys know if the stock tires are roar legal?

ICRC no tires are ROAR legal. The spec on their books is something insanely small, and they are likely to change it.

hey, back to the Belt Tensioner subject for a quick question.?.?

My front tensioner, the (i think 3x5 BHS) that we unlosen & to move the
tensioner. Not the FHS that keeps the tensioner tight.

I stripped the head of the screw, from I guess, over tightening.?.
For now it's fine, but eventually, I am going to want to adjust the front tension.(only have run 4x)
What should I use to get the screw out, without ruining anything else.?.

-I already have the belt tensioner hardware to replace the screw, but I tried for awhile to get it out/losen up, but i made the top, almost rounded out.?.?.

-Do I need 1 of those sets, that drills into the top of the screw, to unlosen it, I rather not strip any other part. I have the full replacement, so I just want to get it out.?
-Any suggestions or LINKS to what i need, or can use.?

THX HELP (sorry for no part #'s, don't have truck in front of me.)
J

So are they legal or not? Sorry im confused!

Guys....I have been researching and reading for the last 2 weeks on which SCT 4x4 I want to get and I cant make my mind up between SCTE and SC10 4x4. I love my SC10 RS after I did some suspension tweaks it seems to be pretty good now. I have read about 50 pages on this thread and a lot of good advice. From what I have read many are happy with the MMP and RX8 ESC and the 3800 CC motor. I dont read many talking about the LRP stuff....any reason why not?

Not legal. But neither is anything else apparently.

See:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...racing-10.html

And:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKee3iZLpNI

i don't know how much room you have to work with around that screw, but if you have a dremel you can slot the head of the screw and back it out with a flat head. if you don't have a dremel, i'm sure somebody at your local track will have one. i don't know if there is a harbor freight where you live, but i noticed they are having a sale on a cheap dremel start-up kit. it comes with the dremel and a bunch of accessories. i think it's only $10 if you have the coupon from their mailer.

I've had the belt slip off the front before and tried everything to correct it...I thought it was the front tensioner pulley bearing or the whole assembly but it kept slipping off until I replaced the front clicker cover assembly and the belt no longer slips.....my belt was too loose and it slipped off creating a groove in the front clicker cover lol...

Did that too. I replaced EVERYTHING between the two transmissions including the covers. 3 races and it was back to slipping off.

You want this or another brand. Forget any other style of screw extractor. It will amaze you I gaurantee. They sell them at sears as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8440P-Gr...ref=pd_cp_hi_1

I have used this trick before with the dremel. It worked pretty well. It just depends on how much room you have as said above.

Same problem for me. The Tensioner Pulley took a beating from the belt slipping off and I'm waiting for the part now. The bearing seems quite worn out too.

I will inspect the front clicker cover tonight.

I have owned all 4x4 sct's except for the Rango and the hyper. If you love your SC10 then the only choice is the SC10 4x4. They do well with the same driving style. The SCTE is very similar to a 1/8 buggy and forces its way around the track. The SC10 4x4 requires a bit more finesse much like the SC10.

I was never able to make the adjustment from 2wd to 4wd and back when I ran the other 4x4's. Its not so bad with the SC10 4x4.

As for ESC's I had one of the first production MMP's and it was amazing! Small, powerfull, and smooth. But, I bought a second one and have since gone through them like toilet paper. Yes castle's customer support is great, but that don't put a ESC in my truck on saturday.

The RX8 is bullet proof (not the fan, they suck) I have ran everything from a Tekin T8 to a Novak SS Pro 8.5 540 to a Neu 1515 4100 with it and always turns on, no cogging (if the motor isn't a joke) and nice cool temps (with out a fan).

The Castle Neu 3800 is a nice motor, but I had been spoiled by running Tekin T8's, authentic Steve Neu motors, and Hacker motors so the Castle Neu copy cat just dont cut it for me.

As of right now my favorite 2 motor esc setups are:
Tekin RX8 / Hacker B50 7L
Tekin RX8 / Neu 1509 1Y (3600kv)

and yes I know not everyone has $200+ to spend on a motor, I just have good friends to borrow motors from!

I see all this talk about belts slipping off... im running my tensioner all the way loose and the belt hasn't come off once (knock on wood) I just think its weird that so many people are having this problem... im back to my old conclusion of me heaving built my truck wrong cuz its been flawless for me since I got it months ago.