That actually give you more grip in the rear.

Hey Tarnjit,

Glad you like the car, I found that the rear end of my car was quite unpredictable with the centre one way loose. I found that if you loosen the spur mount and rear pulley and pushtogether and tighten so that it tightens the centre one way, it helped alot. I dont know why because its not tightly locked but tighter!! I now run with a centre locked pulley i made by glueing and pinning 2 fixed pulleys.

I read a quote that if you put spacers under the rear blocks it actually decreases grip, i thought that was the opposite, if you add spacers under wishbone mounts it increases grip (reading any other manufacturers manual)

Are you using blue rear 1deg hubs? If you are then you need more toe on the wishbone but if not forget this

Rear Diff, i found that if the diff was loose it gave the unpredictable rear end, problem i found was that it was hard to do up because it would only do up certain amount then couldnt tighten any more (solution is to glue the 2mm nut into the plastic T piece) just a few dabs. Then you can tighten the diff a bit more. Its not just bout it slipping but how loose it feels.

Lastly as i know bedworth track i know that its probably off power when the back steps (going into couple of those hairpins) so i would definatly try playing with droop.

Rob

rob mate,

youve thought about exacly the same things i was just thinking about. i know exacly what you mean about the diff. Its not slipping at all but its soo free! i will try what you said about the centre oneways, sounds good.
about the shimms under the rear blocks, I hear it actually increases grip at the rear but less pressure on the rear tires, something like that can anyone clear that up for me?
And droop i just totally forgot about!!! thats proberly what it was, anyway not bad at all for its first meeting. Bring on the next.

thanks
Tarnj

Raising your suspension blocks raises your roll center, which decreases traction. For detailed explaination of roll center, check out the link below:

http://www.teamorion.com/faq/car-handling3.asp

Well done on your first meeting with the 415 Tarnj , i know the car has plent of speed to tap into yet.

Just ordered the EVO IV suspension kit and low friction belts and a few other items. I may have only done one meeting with it so far aswell but im looking forward to seeing just what it can do once i change to it full time.

yeah id like that for sure, but at the moment im in need of other stuff such as cells!! anyway i found out the reason my car felt a bit back endy was the rear diff. TRF driver told me its to be done up pretty tight to get a normal rear diff feeling to it, dont just tighten it till it dont slip as it is still too free, tighten it a bit more.

I actually run this car today at socal rc which is a tight track with lots of turns and the car was hooked on a rail. I am very impressed with the 415. way better than 414mII. I basically set it as per instruction with exception of blue springs and sway up front and it was holding the inside line so tight. very predictable car. only thing I felt was lack of power down the straight way compare to other cars but I made up the time infield. anyone race at socal that can email me a setup. I like to compare and see if I can make the car even better.

Who is this? I race at SoCal all the time and drives a 415. I am running pretty much stock setup (yellow springs and sway bars with Associated 40W) with CA in front and 2 degrees in the rear (BD with the 1 degree hub). I also have the roll center raised in the rear by 1mm (as opposed to 0.7mm stock).

hello all, I just bought a 415, and have some questions.

1: I hear some things about some special belts that are going to be released, lower friction and such, does anyone know when they will be out, and when Speedtechrc will get them in.
2: How is the EVO4 suspension going to change the car (narrower?), change the handling.
3: What hop-ups are needed? And what are the best cool-factor hop-ups, that still help the car (unlike aluminum body posts do nothing...)
4: which spares would you guys get if you knew what breaks, and where buying it all again for the first time?
5: where can I find some good 19turn asphalt set-ups? Anyone have any they would like to share, or can anyone direct me to a website that might have some?

Thanks

1. July 9th in Japan. No body knows when Stateside.

2. Evo IV suspension is longer. Good for fast flowing tracks.

3. No hopups are needed but if you must.. The rear aluminium hubs for more tuning options and less rear toe. Low Friction belts when they arrive. And Evo IV arms conversion if your track is flowing and fast. Tuning spring set. And maybe TA04 racing hubs for 6° caster blocks. Oh... and 3 hole pistons.

4. SpeedtechRC and Rainbow 10 for Arms, C Hubs, Spindles, and Rear Hubs. Always have spare belts too just in case. I have yet to break anything on the car except a front body post. RC Car Action said they broke one of the aluminium turnbuckles.

5. I don't race 19t.

hey,
thanks a lot. There are some other companies that make the low friction belts for the car, correct? where can I find them? I am assuming Japan, but which online hobby shops in japan have them?

Hi just a techical question with the 415 does the spool diff make that much difference to the handling of the car. I have only just got the car and its only 2-3 meetings old and the car seems to handle quite well.

The reason there is so much talk about spool here is 1) people think one-way doesn't work for carpet and 2) reedy race that just took place does not allow one-way. I dare say that if one-way were allowed nearly everyone would've use it for the reedy race (outdoor asphalt). If one-way works for you there is no need to worry about spools.

ok i am confused here a little maybe someone can help me but if i want to change the toe in in the back which block do i have to change? the backback front back ?i just got the car so i am trying to figure it out its a little differnt the my evo3 also the bridge mount is 1d what if i put 1a what does it do ?

You need to change the front rear block per instruction unless you want to change the track width. If you chanege the D bridge to the A you will have a front in board toe-out, which give you more steering and decrease the track width in front.