Agreed^^ I think maybe some guys who have had experiance in RC just build the kit and not read the manual properly and have issues.
even thought ive been into RC since the mid 80's I still remain teachable and read my manuals inside and out before I even start a new build.
especially if I have never built that particular Rc before.

Hi guys. New to the thread. I liked by 8ight 2.0 so much that I am in the process of getting an 8ight-t 2.0.

I like the way my buggy handles with the 10deg inclined spindles. For the truggy, I was going to use them as well along with the V2 rear tower and LRC rear hinge plate holders. I run primarily at Revelation raceway. Are these upgrades worth it? Or you keeping the truck stock?

Thanks!

I like the truck as it is. Unless you're planning on changing the anti-squat and rear toe, you don't need the LRC plates. You can run the stock plates with the inclinded carriers and still maintain the original roll center.
Completely stock setup works very good. Mine works excellent and the only thing that is lacking is more driving skill.
I do use the 12 degree on the buggy and actually they are more less used more on the truck but I haven't tried them.

Good luck.

In my case, i drive hard I mean hard... doesn't help i'm using a modded p5 .. one of my race buddies has the same truck,(we got them about the same time) I have been through a total of atleast four rear diffs, one front diff... He has only been through one rear diff...lol

So, I think it has to do with driving style and when the part was made... Cause it's only been this year that I have been through so many diffs, with not as near as many races.. I used to race every weekend..

PEACE
PS

I really couldn't say if I drive hard or not, but I do race with a modded 454. It is a pretty strong .28 in stock trim but after AB cut it up it's . But I have not had any drive train problems, and the only part I have replaced is the front to center cvd. I have about 12 gallons on the chassis now. I would be sick if I had to keep replacing rear diffs.

Motor Nor Hingepins have Anything to do with Blowing the rear Ring and pinion gears.

exacly.people need to learn how to shim

in my humble opinion The V2 tower made a big difference for me and my driving.
That extra outter suspention hole on the tower made a BIG difference for me.

I've went through one rear and one front, ring and pinion but I bought the truck used with a good amount of electric conversion use time on it already and I had put 3 gallons more of nitro use on it before they started making noise. I use the aluminum rear bearing supports, shim correctly and replaced the gearbox halves when I replaced the diffs for some added assurance. Been good for about 12 batterys worth of use and now we're going back to nitro with it too.

Watched drake and pavidas this weekend wheeling their truggies
And was just in ah those guys are great ESP drake makes it look so
Easy but did learn alot by just watching them get around the track. I don't remember how many laps drake had lapped the field but he was just flying.

Im having wheel spin at a low idle, gonna take the clutch out and see if i got a clutch problems. I know in my clutchs with my chainsaw's a broken spring would cause constant chain spin. Any ideas guys? thanks

Its more than likley broken or worn out clutch springs causing your clutch shoes to ingage early.It could also be a bearing locked up so you should defenetly take a look..

Take the carbon shoes off and make sure one of them is not broken at the pin hole.

All of those parts are well worth it IMO. The inclined 10's are sweet on the truggy and the V2 tower is a must have.

Thanks guys. The truck I bought is coming with a V2 rear tower, so I plan on keeping it. It doesn't come with inclined spindles or the lrc rear hinge pin holders. I will try it stock first. I'll experiment with the inclined spindles and see how I like them. Love them on the buggy...