The pinion if loose on the driveshaft can only move one way and that's towards the diff. That's almost like putting shims behind the pinion.
While I don't like any movement either, the pinion moving towards the diff will actually tighten up the mesh.

The clutch bearings is not caused from the clutch. It's caused from not aligning the motor parallel to the chassis and that is why the 2.0 they put lines so the motor mounts can be kept straight. I can't speak for the clutch setup for the track that you ask about though.

I have the 8 t 2.0 rtr version what would be my best upgrade to get for it that would help improve it? Wanting to upgrade the whole truck.

thanks Brandon

V2 Shock Tower
Roller Chassis

roller chassis is that the same as the tuned flex chassis?

losa4405 is the same as the roller chassis.

As far as the number of shims go, there really is no set number if shims to add. It's all about feel...can't be too tight and it can't be too loose. I know it sucks having to say it like that but you just have to have the feel for it. But just FYI I use 2 thick and 1 thin for the rear of the truck and I had to add a shim to obtain the correct pinion depth. I don't know the the thickness of it but the O.D. is 11mm and is sandwiched between the inner bearing and diff case...the I.D. just has to be bigger than the pinion shaft which is 5mm. As for buggy, I only had to use 2 thick shims and no shim for the pinion to get the mesh right. Now mind you this is only the rears, I had to take them apart just to post a reply and don't feel like tearing down the fronts Also remember that I only add shims to increase mesh unless from factory it is too tight and want to take away. I never add shims to both sides of the diff....what's the point?

Even though I have been lucky to never have had the experience of loosing a diff, I check them every time I do a rebuild due to the fact that alot of others were having issues with them. I also don't believe in "set-it and forget-it" saying knowing that we are dealing with plastic and metal to metal wear. So I do believe it needs to be adjusted acordingly. Just for an example, I remember when both vehicles were new I only used 2 thick shims in truggy and 1 thick and 1 thin in buggy. After about running 2 gallons on each is when I added the extra thin shims for the truck and replaced the thin shim for a thick shim in the buggy (kinda like after a break-in stage).

Hope this helps.......

I don't totally agree. When the ring gear and pinion are in a bind (on throttle) it is actually creating two different forces. One is causing the ring gear to be pushed away from the pinion and the other is causing the pinion to be pushed towards the front of the diff case in which both will lead to poor gear mesh and possible failure.

I have only Shimmed my Pinion (from inside the case) after the drive shaft has devloped a tiny bit of play and the front diff was starting to (CLICK/miss) under load with the .05 shim added it eliminates play in both directions and pushes the pinion onto the ring in the most minute maonnor and after this is done I have not had any binding/slipping issues since..

My truggy has 3.5* toe with 3* anti-squat rear hinge pin brace on it right now, if I changed it with an adustable rear hinge pin brace with #1 toe and #1 anti-squat insert what will the toe and anti-squat be? To get 3.5* toe-in and 3* anti-squat which insert should I put on? Thanks for the help.

3.5T/3A would be 1's up in the forward block and .5's out in the rear block. 1's out in the rear block would be 4* of toe-in. 0's in the rear block gives you 3* of toe-in(most common setting).

Is it a good idea to use these? I got them because i read a few posts were it was said it was a good idea to install these. After reading the latest posts on how to get the correct shim, I saw a post were someone switched back to the plastic bearing holders because of a diff problem. Are most running the aluminum ones? How would the aluminum ones cause diff issues? Thanks guys

Print these out and throw them in your box.

Front:
http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...tion-Sheet.pdf

Rear
http://fastserve.horizonhobby.com/Pr...stallation.pdf

Most are running these. The plastic wears down faster. Alum just dont wear.

i use them, just installed them about 2 months ago although in 2 years ive never had a problem useing the plastic ones.