I did'nt read past this post, but I bought 2 extra Slipper Hardware packages to try to get the correct size Thrust Washer.(2.90mm, I think?) The largest one I got, was 2.73mm, the one that came with the kit was 2.70&the other package was 2.70.
I am losing the roughness on my HT & reg slipper pads, every few packs. SUX

I don't have my parts here to measure everything, but the slipper tightens to about 4mm, and i run it around 3.5mm

THX

when are you coming out to 702 RC in Las Vegas?

are there people encountering problems with their wobbeling diff outdrives?

mine are wobbeling a lot, but so far no real problems , only I have to refill the diffs more often




.

Anyone else think that if you peeled off the bumpers and nerfs and added a rear wing, that this little truck would make a dandy E buggy?

AE already took care of lid mounting!

I'd take one of your spare thrust washers, stick it between the outer plate and the spring, and tighten the spring down 100%.. (Just until it compresses, not until it binds.)

I'm running HD pads inside and out and have stopped having slipper problems ever since I did this. (Only I did it with a pair of 1/4" washers).

One other thing that people need to understand is that slippers ARE CONSUMABLES. Anything that generates friction on purpose will need to be replaced from time to time. (Tires, breaks, clutches, etc.) Granted, consuming them in 2-3 packs isn't right....but if you can get your setup to the point where you can make it through a full race day without fading performance, part of your regular maintenance is to pull the pads and rough them up...then I would say once your tires are worn out and you replace them, that would be a good time to flat out replace your slipper pads.

Thanks Jpure for posting the measurements.

There is another way to adjust this spring. The caliper is cute and a good idea, but IMO there is a better way, thanks to Team Losi circa 1992 and the Hydradrive.

I recommend installing it per instructions first so you can pre sag the spring for a couple of hours, remove the nut, add a couple of #4 washers (to make up for the lack of thrust bearing thickness), re install, and then run the nut down on the spring till you get it into coil bind. Back it off two turns. Hit the track and adjust accordingly. After you get it right, go back and mark the nut and crank it down to coil bind, being careful to count the amount of turns it takes to get it to coil bind.

Before you add the washers you can't get the spring into coil bind, the nut bottoms out on the shaft first.

An 1/8th of a turn makes a huge difference on the preload on this sort of setup, and with the tolerances between parts I really don't know how you could consistantly get the slipper the same run after run if you adjust it any other way.

On another point - I think there's no coincidence the team guys are only running 540 motors...

The 550 motors are too laggy.

I'm not trying to nut swing off Castle's 1410 but the reason it works so well is because of the design, it is the best of both worlds. A big rotor combined with 4 pole along with cheap cost. No cogging. Tekin's motor may be a little better but as well all know the smoothest driver on the track usually wins.

I agree that the 1410 right now seems to be the best as far as price and what it can deliver...... I am still going to give my tekin 5.5 a chance, I switched back to 16/62 gearing and I am going to mess around with the timing, I will only raise it up one higher then the stock settings on the mmp, if it still doesn't out perform my 1410, then I will sell the tekin 5.5 and wait for their 4 pole lol........

when you guys say the 1410 is the best as far as price and performance, have you tried the ckhobbies 4 pole motor? It sells for $45 and has a rotor that's slighly bigger than even the 1410's and has 4000kv compared to the castle's 3800kv. I ran one last weekend and the performance was really good.

Never tried it, but did see the video Jang put up on youtube...... My only concern is warranty and customer service support..... If they can offer the same support I've gotten from castle I may just try one out.........

Are you talking about the tenshock 550 4 pole? I've seen that vid but ckhobbies has their own 540 4 pole motor. I have no idea on the warranty but the owner is on here all the time, goes by mc4798, pm him if you have any questions on it. I went with the ckhobbies motor because it isn't bundled with a junk esc that no one uses.

Oh sorry I thought they were the same motors lol......... Anyhow they are out of stock on both motors, they do have a sensored one I may try out on my buggy to see how it performs....

I just tore my truck down to nuts, bolts and washers and found 3 wobbly out drives and bent front a-arms. The a-arms are easy to replace but I'd like to know what people have done to repair the wobbly out drives who haven't put any up limiters on the shocks. Do the out drives itself need replacing or is just a rebuild kit enough for the repair? Also, what have you guys had success with using for up limiters on the sock shafts?

I've used fuel tubing and o-rings before as compression limiters in the past. They give a little cushion.

According to what I've read that Tekin will be THE motor to have if you want ultimate performance.

I barely have a grip on my driving as it is LOL but I am someone that likes to have the best gear