Kinda bummed out. I finally got my SC4X and RX8 together and ready for install and I dont think I read anywhere at all that the 540 pinions dont fit the 550 motors... I also need some bigger screws to mount the SC4X in my SC10 4x4 since it doesnt line up with the smaller screws.

Anyone know what size screws im going to need to hold the motor in place? Im guessing I can get any 1/8th pinion to work with the motor as well?

The motor is going to use 32 pitch gears 5mm bore that you can get at you lhs. I believe mod.08 will also work. Just double check which spur you installed. Do not use 1/8 pinion as they are generally mod 1 and will not work. Im not sure on the motor screws.

for the motor screws, you can remove screws holding the end plate on the can and rotate the end plate so 1 position so now the smaller screw holes line up.....i had to do this when i built a customers truck using the sc4x motor

The motor screws are 3mm

My friend try that with the battery and It works really good in the ground but went he jump the noise waned to go down first. But a good driver can fits that by using the throttle

Here's a typical Wed. night at Real/RC in Blue Springs, MO. This A-main had 3 Sc104x4, 2 losi, and 1 durango. SC10's finished 1/2.

http://youtu.be/FgG1LB4UAvo

Traction rolling, which begins as picking up the inside rear tire (usually during left corners more than right for ThunderbirdJunkie...he can just about pin it through a right hander with reckless abandon).
This is ideal. Watch videos of the pros, they jump nose down for a reason...it's the fast way to jump.


As for the people getting defensive about calling swaybars a band-aid for setup...Swaybars should not be crucial to make a truck handle good, period, ITBJHO. ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't need them on his XXX-SCT, his B4, and he is bound and determined to make this truck handle decent without swaybars (or stupidly heavy front diff fluid...50k? WTF? This can't be needed)

The point is the truck is tunable without throwing a bunch of extra crap at it (IE swaybars, mollasses diff fluid up front) and all cars are like that. Not enough rear traction? Don't add weight to the rear, just move what you got as far back as possible. Can't get it far back enough? Change your thought process, IE saddle packs in the rear.

There's a lot in this truck. Sure, swaybars help, but adding them to prevent an inside-rear tire lift is counterproductive to your setup.

How far is that track from Kansas City, MO. I will be in town for a couple weeks sometime in the next few months.....would love to catch a race.

7mm OD? whats that?

The track is 15 min east of KCMO.

Outside Diameter = OD

I disagree with TBJ, this truck needs sway bars to make it as fast as possible. Sure we can drive it without them & get around the track ok, but with sway bars the truck is plain faster period. That also goes for just about every 4 wheel drive rc vehicle. You will almost always see the fast guys at the track running sway bars. They arn't a band aid, they're a tuning aid.

ThunderbirdJunkie agrees with you wholeheartedly...but if you can't get around the track without swaybars, and you just throw them on to correct a bad habit, then you're using them as a band aid.

very good comment
+1

first of all, when trying to make the car handle better, just begin with what you have. and get to know the truck and how it handles without upgrades.

I did put on the sways in front and rear, and did the washers under the ballstuds, gave the truck toe-in on the front, made al kinda changes to get some less steer. but now, no washers, sway only in front, no-more toe-in on the front just 5K rear-diff and 7k front diff.

this car is soooooooo good. and we dont need to change that much of the set-up to get it right..

Thunderbird, do you race in third person? I mean do you beat yourself in a 1 person race? LOL Anyways, sway bars are an integral part of any and all race cars, real and RC. Definitely not a bandaid. There couldn't be a worse statement made about them. My only complaint about this new SC 4x4 I got is that there are no swaybars. For real track stability and power/weight transfer of these vehicles, there is no reason to not have some.