What are you seeing as the bad behaviour, the amount of roll or the fact that it's picking up it's wheel? (Honest question here...us on-road guys only know the car is rolling too far when it flips over...LOL)

What does screwing down the rear shocks 3 turns do? How is that affecting the truck's performance?

This lowers the a-arm at full suspension compression, subsequently preventing the dog bone from rubbing on the diff. outdrives.
JT

Adding sway bars is not a band aid fix IMO. There is no other way to keep it from rolling over on high bite surfaces. I put some 1.5 mm sway bars on mine and it's a lot easier to control now that the whole truck isn't all leaned over in the corner.

Do you mean unscrewing the rear shock end? If so, it increases droop in the rear, increasing rear traction offpower. It helped me a ton in that area.

It increases suspension arm droop. Increased droop in the rear gives better rough track traction and/or decreases "drive" on corner entry (numbs the front end a bit).

If you were to reduce droop in the rear (install some clips under the shock pistons) it would do the opposite.

To me, any adjustment that balances just enough rear end grip with just enough push in the front, just means that I can carry more corner speed and reduce the odds that I'm going to end up on my lid.

This is fun, I"m relearning so much stuff, it ain't funny!

Not entirely true.

If you were to shim the inner ball studs up, you will lower your trucks roll center, increasing the amount of resistance the chassis will have to roll.

Using both sway bars and roll center adjustments will produce more consistently reproducible results.

True but how is shimming the ball studs any less of a band aid fix to adding sway bars.

Krio,
Thanks for the input. I'll double check again.

Lol! you sure you are watching the right car, Bud!? Probably not..cause you guys are always in front me

None of them are "band aides". Chassis tuning is essential to good track performance. Even the most gifted of drivers are to benefit from knowing good set up practices. Your motor and gearing can only go so far.

Go ask a formula 1 driver and/or team crew chief why they're making "band aide" adjustments to their cars. A fraction of a millimeter on their set up can mean the difference between winning and losing.

I think they are both good ideas.

i had the same problem, could have been a few issues. i tightened my tension enough so it didn't do it. but i eventually put the tensionner pulley with the bearing back the right way that the book says to do it, onto the metal bracket.

this allowed the pulley to sit further out from the cover which centred the belt better on the front pulley.

i also put some plumbers tape around the bearing and trimmed it, then put it in the pulley, as i could see it was a little loose in there. Now i dont have any problems.

I can run my tension the way the book says now without the belt jumping.

Farmer_John, I'm not sure I understand this droop stuff ...I had always thought that increasing rear droop would allow more weight transfer to the front the vehicle under braking or deceleration into a corner which would ultimately reduce rear traction and cause said vehicle to steer/rotate more into the corner. Similarly increasing front droop would allow more weight transfer backward under acceleration out of the corner and take away steering/rotation out of corners.

I'd appreciate it if you or someone else in the know could further educate me on droop and elaborate on why increasing rear droop helps this truck with stability into corners.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Mike

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Yes, off power. Sorry, I was referencing on power charactoristics.

Increasing front droop increases on power steering.

It won't increase stability, though it will increase on power bite. Stability comes through roll control. But a glass flat chassis in a corner that won't bite does you no good.

Please, if there are holes in my statements, tell me. I"m here to increase my knowledge and this truck has put me back into the set up head game.