Party pooper! Anybody make a Buggie outside of Chine Chine!?

My Mugen MBV-6Eco wasn't made in China I believe (I think Taiwan, need to check that)
However there is a big difference between "made in China" and "made in China"

The problem with it is that the end quality is completely dependend on the quality control. Companies like Mattel and Hasbro also make all of their toys in China but their quality control is very strict. If they wouldn't do it the chinese would find ways to earn more money by choosing cheaper materials or lower skilled workers. When the QC is good they can't. A big manufacturer always has a strong presence in China to maintain quality otherwise your products are suddenly made in another factory with lower standard without you even knowing it.

That said. I think Thunder Tiger, which owns AE, is good on QC. The quality of my RC8e is good enough. At least a lot better then everything I have seen form Traxxas. Partially that is because of design but also choice of materials. I'm not saying Traxxas is bad but their is a reason why their products are cheaper. This might also explain why my MBX-6 Eco was more expensive then my RC8e. The build quality and the design of the Mugen look a bit better then then the AE I have to say.

the only way to buy american rc's is to buy vintage.

that said ae's qc is pretty darn good. plus the cars are designed here by american racers.

Seems like almost everything is made in China these days. Even my Tekin RX8 esc and T8 motor is made in China. My Futaba 4PL is made in China. But my Hyperion 615 duo+ is made in Korea.

We are proud to say made in Canada with USA grade T6-6061 aluminum

^ everytime i see that pic i want one, not because the stocker bothers me much but that thing is so nice.

hmmm....i got a visa gift card in my wallet....hmmm....

Were running around 8 RC8T at our track.. We ordered one of your diff mounts to check them out but it's still not in (19 days).. I want to try one but is there a faster way to get them here in Boston??

Canada Post was on strike for the last two weeks. They also slowed down mail service just before the strike. The government passed a back-to-work legislation and mail service has resumed as of Tues this week. The remaining backlog of mail in the system will clear up shortly.

It sounds like yours is still stuck in the system. Be patient, it is on the way.

Hey guys!

I've been scanning this thread for weeks now, just had a few quick questions...

1. Anyone running steering racks with adjustable ackerman? I just got mine but the stock FT Rc8be linkages are way too long, it seems there are a few different options as far as shorter turnbuckles between the different versions of RC8's, if anyone could recommend a specific sized turnbuckle that would be great

2. As far as the new Associated upgrade suspension parts go, I've been told at my local track (OCRC) that they wouldn't make a difference on a small indoor clay track, anyone have experience driving the new parts in similar conditions? If so what did you think of the handling?

3. Just discovered Fioroni parts (DROOOOOOL), anyone out there using the Fioroni diffs? I'm having diff problems constantly, I've been running Mugen gaskets from the get go, but now after a few locked diffs I've come to realize that they might be the problem, I've done some sanding with 450 but I'm gonna tear down and finish them off with 800, anyone just using AE gaskets and the new o-rings? I'm afraid to try and sand my diff cup to compensate the Mugen gaskets in fear that I'll overdue it hahaha

4. I wasted my money on a Dynamite tire balancer... It won't spin freely enough to show me the actual heavy spots :/ Anyone try the Grid balancer?

5. WHY ON EARTH do my front tires wear out so much quicker than the rears? I'm running 5 5 5 diff fluid, consistently my fronts are toast within a few batteries...

6. Back to Fioroni, anybody using ANY of there stuff? It all seems really nice, just wonderring if you guys noticed any real improvements... I am in love with their chassis (comes with o-rings to seal diff housing), and am thinking about going that route over a carbon chassis, any input is appreciated!!

P.S. I think the Canadian Postal strike is going to give me the record of longest wait for a Grid motor mount :P Hahaha

Yes Fioroni is nice stuff but IMO over priced as most Ae FT upgrades are just as good. I had problems with front tire wear as well I would rotate them often, but depending on your track conditions and how you would like it to perform I would go up in diff oil in the center which will put more power to the rear wheels but again depending on driving style and track usually thinner oil in center would be easier to drive but would decrease on power steering and acceleration and generally would have more front tire wear.

I use the chassis brace. Not sure if any better than other brands. The rear has a spring on it. The screw was lost even thou I put lock tight on it. Also the other end has a pressed pin instead of a screw & it keeps creeping out.

O, I am getting me one for sure, and its because i can't stand the stock mount.. and it looks so nice too.

Hey guys!

I've been scanning this thread for weeks now, just had a few quick questions...

1. Anyone running steering racks with adjustable ackerman? I just got mine but the stock FT Rc8be linkages are way too long, it seems there are a few different options as far as shorter turnbuckles between the different versions of RC8's, if anyone could recommend a specific sized turnbuckle that would be great

2. As far as the new Associated upgrade suspension parts go, I've been told at my local track (OCRC) that they wouldn't make a difference on a small indoor clay track, anyone have experience driving the new parts in similar conditions? If so what did you think of the handling?

Updated geometry with the +3mm chassis made a big difference at WCRC. It was dialed.

3. Just discovered Fioroni parts (DROOOOOOL), anyone out there using the Fioroni diffs? I'm having diff problems constantly, I've been running Mugen gaskets from the get go, but now after a few locked diffs I've come to realize that they might be the problem, I've done some sanding with 450 but I'm gonna tear down and finish them off with 800, anyone just using AE gaskets and the new o-rings? I'm afraid to try and sand my diff cup to compensate the Mugen gaskets in fear that I'll overdue it hahaha

I've heard the difference in thickness of the Mugen gasket causes problems. AE gaskets and either clear or Kyosho 6mm o-rings work great. Sand just enough to make the face flat and don't over do it.

4. I wasted my money on a Dynamite tire balancer... It won't spin freely enough to show me the actual heavy spots :/ Anyone try the Grid balancer?

I use the dubro prop balancer for all my wheels with real good results. I use a short course wheel adapter in the buggy wheel to get it to fit in the balancer.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD712&P=ML


5. WHY ON EARTH do my front tires wear out so much quicker than the rears? I'm running 5 5 5 diff fluid, consistently my fronts are toast within a few batteries...

How much front droop do you run?


6. Back to Fioroni, anybody using ANY of there stuff? It all seems really nice, just wonderring if you guys noticed any real improvements... I am in love with their chassis (comes with o-rings to seal diff housing), and am thinking about going that route over a carbon chassis, any input is appreciated!!

[COLOR="Red"]Fioroni is way overpriced in my oponion.[COLOR]


P.S. I think the Canadian Postal strike is going to give me the record of longest wait for a Grid motor mount :P Hahaha

Anybody running the teckno v3 chassis? Don't really see too many out there. Also mine has a traxxas receiver box does the stock receiver box work with the v3 teckno kit?

Ive got the dynamite tire balancer and you have to remove the grease from the bearings to make it spin freely. Just pop the seals off and spray the bearings with brake cleaner until all the grease is gone.