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Old 06-27-2011 | 09:12 PM
  #3796  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Screw playing with toy cars, ThunderbirdJunkie's gonna jack that Cessna 182.
When they catch you trying to take off and go to prosecute just continue to refer to yourself in the third person, be your own legal council, and claim temporary insanity. (just messing with ya T-bird!)
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Old 06-27-2011 | 09:13 PM
  #3797  
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Originally Posted by Robotech
When they catch you trying to take off and go to prosecute just continue to refer to yourself in the third person, be your own legal council, and claim temporary insanity. (just messing with ya T-bird!)
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Old 06-27-2011 | 09:33 PM
  #3798  
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Hello everybody!

I wanted to know if anyone of you tried to put on 1/8 buggy tires on the 4x4. I would like to because I have so many of those tires here.
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Old 06-27-2011 | 10:35 PM
  #3799  
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Originally Posted by Keeferton
I am running 3k rear and 7k front and plan on going 7 or 10k rear and 20k front. Truck is very forgivable... almost too much. I'm hoping ill be able to hold a little more corner speed and get the back end to come around a little easier.

I know what changing the rear diff fluid will do as far as drive ability goes. What changes am i going to see with changing front fluid. The main reason I'm changing the front fluid is out of sheer curiosity.
try 50k in the front and 7k in the rear it would help
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Old 06-27-2011 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by f1o7x9
try 50k in the front and 7k in the rear it would help
+1
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Old 06-28-2011 | 05:08 AM
  #3801  
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Originally Posted by f1o7x9
try 50k in the front and 7k in the rear it would help
+2
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Old 06-28-2011 | 06:05 AM
  #3802  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
yes Francois i went back to the 20t, it seems that the 19t make the front end pull harder through the turns, in effect making the rear end swing out easyer, but the overdrive helps it straighten out easyer. Very smooth throttle imputs, rolling on and off power seems to be the way to drive it.
I second the 20t pulley. I was struggling with a little on power push when we where on tight indoor tracks. But now that its summer I was having trouble with the truck getting loose when rolling on the throttle coming onto the straights.

It seems that I was able to get the push to go away by going thicker with the front diff fluid and also stabilize the rear on the transitions by switching back to the 20t pulley.

Current Setup:
http://imgur.com/reyZz


*Special Note: Ride height may vary with tire selection.
Front ride height arms level and rear ride height arms slightly below level after pressing chassis to ground with battery and body.
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Old 06-28-2011 | 10:31 AM
  #3803  
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I hit an exposed edge on the back straight of my local track at full speed, and had a similar failure, truck kept running, but the inner rear "leg" was crushed toward the front about 0.5cm and the hinge pin was bent.

Luckily A-main had spares and none of the local shops have parts yet. You guys Might want to pick up a spare set of Front A-arm and hinge pins.

Other than that, the truck has been pretty bulletproof!

Originally Posted by navynuke
Found an interesting failure point in the front arms. Went to mount my front sway-bar, and the arm was bent, not broken where the mount holes for the sway-bars are.

You can see the crush in the bolt hole here



and it bent at the tip of the scribe here



I am used to breaking arms, hopefully replacing it and installing the sway bar will prevent it in the future.
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Old 06-28-2011 | 11:32 AM
  #3804  
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WHAT SPACERS (PART # PLEASE) ARE YOU GUYS USING FOR UNDER THE BALL STUDS?
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Old 06-28-2011 | 11:43 AM
  #3805  
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack
WHAT SPACERS (PART # PLEASE) ARE YOU GUYS USING FOR UNDER THE BALL STUDS?
ASC9630 worked for my SC10 4x4.
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Old 06-28-2011 | 11:44 AM
  #3806  
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack
WHAT SPACERS (PART # PLEASE) ARE YOU GUYS USING FOR UNDER THE BALL STUDS?
ASC6936
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Old 06-28-2011 | 11:51 AM
  #3807  
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Posted a week ago, page 242.
Originally Posted by Sofa King
Ballstud washer part number is 31286
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Old 06-28-2011 | 12:29 PM
  #3808  
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Originally Posted by navynuke
Found an interesting failure point in the front arms. Went to mount my front sway-bar, and the arm was bent, not broken where the mount holes for the sway-bars are.

You can see the crush in the bolt hole here



and it bent at the tip of the scribe here
I bet leaving the screw in there, even if not running a swaybar, would make that part a little stronger.
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Old 06-28-2011 | 01:01 PM
  #3809  
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack
WHAT SPACERS (PART # PLEASE) ARE YOU GUYS USING FOR UNDER THE BALL STUDS?
I used to use the 31286, but have switched to the 4617 shims. It provides a bit more surface area, and helps prevent the ballstud from bending if you have a hard impact.
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Old 06-28-2011 | 01:37 PM
  #3810  
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Originally Posted by Chris Jarosz
I used to use the 31286, but have switched to the 4617 shims. It provides a bit more surface area, and helps prevent the ballstud from bending if you have a hard impact.
LOL! I just sent my ex- to the hobby shop to buy the 31286! Now when I see her, I can tell her "NO! You totally bought the wrong ones. I know I told you 31286, but you should have known I meant 4617...geeze, no wonder we broke up!"

I was actually kind of wondering about that whole surface area thing...

Thanks for the update Chris, and thanks for the timing too! I'm going to have fun with this! (btw...she knows I'm kidding...we tease each other like that all the time. Gotta love exes that get into the same hobbies that you do.)
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