Put together the 8be kit this weekend, was my first kit car and I think I almost enjoyed putting it together more than driving.

I was going to order the rest of the parts I need, but I have a question about the RX8's, do they fit well with the stock motor mount or is the grid mount the way to go? Would it pay to mount the speedo on a bit of foam?

For the rest of my build I was planning on going with
2050kv combo w/hotwire
XP 1015 servo
AE 3chn fm27 receiver
DE mud guards
front and rear spring kits
bunch of different weight shock and diff fluids
assorted pinions and spurs

Anything else I may need or that you guys would recommend? I've been reading through the thread but there is so much info its hard to remember it all. For gearing I was going to try the stock 44/15 ratio on a tighter track... Does that seem a little low? Two other tracks I will run at are faster, more wide open tracks... what would you guys recommend for a 2050kv setup as a baseline for gearing?

Thanks!

Check the signiture. My gearing is 19/46. It's pretty much a spot on for me. Motor temps stay 120-160.

And yes, I recommend the grid mount.

I have an Elite. They have poor support. I would go with the Grid.
I would do 2 layers double sided tape.

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated!

Has anyone had trouble mounting the tekin motor with the stock motor mount? I wouldnt be opposed to using the stock mount, but I seem to remember seeing a post somewhere of someone that had issues with the motor can rubbing the chassis due to the mount being low... is this something to worry about with the tekins?

Also, I know these are pretty simple/dumb questions but I'm new to electric... is the receiver powered from the speedo?

Thanks jwmustang for the tape trick, I will do that.

Cheers with beers!

i have my rx8 mounted on 2 layers of foam tape. it fits fine, lots of room.
i use the stock motor mount. it works fine, i'm not going to replace it.

i have my tekin 1900 gear 19/46 and the motor does not touch the chassis.

Wish there was a like button for this, thank you sir!

It clears the chassis but it is very close. So landing high jumps may hit the motor. Keep an eye on the rubber pad on the chassis, if you see impressions from the motor then you will know it is smaking it at times. The after market ones give you a higher clearance. My motor got all banged up from it from the old mount.

Ok i have a question,I installed the mugen gaskets and sanded diffs smooth, I ran last weekend and was fine, this weekend i ran and front diff locked up, i took apart and cleaned put back together and it just grabs, installed spare and was fine, 2 heats later center did the same thing,did i not sand enough off and its just knocking edges off in the diffs>>>??

I sanded a little & just used 2 FT gaskets & have no problems.

Which direction are the tapered pistons supposed to go. Thanks in advance.

I had the same issues with my diff. I re shimmed the out drives so they had very little play in them. The issue has yet to return. I had it happen to each one of my diffs at different points.

did you just add a extra shim on both sides??

Tapered side down.

some sides have 3-4 some only have 1-2. I started with 1 shim and added shims till I no longer had a lot of play.

thanks man