Thanks, I have until the 25th to get my buggy to handle better.

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If you are pushing on throttle I wouldnt recommend 7 in the center diff. It will probably make it worse. I would stay with 5-5-5 and worn on tuning the suspension instead.

I would try a stiffer sway bar in the rear or lowering where the rear camber link is on the rear shock tower or try less anti-squat.

Quick question, how often do you replace the arms. I have never broke one yet but they do tend to bend after awhile.
Thanks

Terry

Does anyone know what are the parts for convert my ebuggy with the worlds ( bcespeed ) chassis ?

I need tower f/r ?
f/rsuspention ?
what alse ?

ok, that's for a 1900kv teking. What about the 2050kv teking ? what would be the pinion size 46/????

I don't use the 2050, but friends that are using it are gearing about 2 teeth less than the 1900.

I would say the best thing to do would be to pick up a couple different sizes. I carry with me 15-19 tooth pinions. One track I go to the 17 works best while another track likes the 19 and honestly i could probably go up to a 20 or 21 to be most ideal.

I am currently running a 2250 tekin motor on 3S batteries. I will be switching over to 4S batteries shortly and I assume I am going to have to drop down a few teeth for each track once I do.

Pinions are pretty cheap and every track is different. Just keep a close eye on your motor temps, run times, and how it seems to work out to your liking on the track and adjust accordingly.

ok. thank you for your answer.

I have had my buggy for about a month in a half and I have only broke one upper front arm. It wasn't even fully broke either, just the front part that connects to the hing pin tore and was still working as I finished the race with it that way.

I have yet to bend any of the hing pins or the lower arms. The caster blocks seem to wear pretty quick leading to some slop in the suspension but it doesn't seem to negatively impact the way the car handles just yet so I have not replaced them.

Keep in mind I go to the track 3-4 times a week and normally run 6-10 packs each day.

I have had to replace the front shock tower due to me landing on my lid and bending it to a point where I could only mount the shocks in one of the mounting holes, and i also broke both the front and rear chassis stiffeners.

All the other parts I have replaced were due to my own mistakes while assembling the car.

were can i get a chassis

www.bcespeed.com

I'm installing mine this weekend... Just waiting on all new bearings and plastics as wel as SNR towers and such so I can completely freshen the car up.

I'll post pics Saturday evening or Sunday.

Is their a difference in the BCE chassis, and the new AE +3mm chassis?

Thanks. You do a lot of driving man. i wish I could drive that much. So when do you think it's time to replace the chassis. Like how much wear on the front and rear?

Also, I just noticed looking on RC10.com, the parts list for the RC8Be buggy shows a 29mm front shock body and a 38mm rear shock body. I thought the RC8B and RC8T shocks were the same. I bought the same ones and have been running it like this. Does the 32mm (truggy) make a difference between the 29mm (buggy). So strange I never noticed this before. I even liked the idea that I could switch them around if needed cause I have 2 truggies and 1 buggy.

EDIT: I guess I cannot use the HD shock shafts on the truggy then.