Diffs/gear boxes are my main complaint with the car. I bought new diff boxes, and bearings. Put them in and the bearing was loose in the housing? All new parts... I've posted about this before and didn't get much feed back. I had to Sand down the diff halves a considerable amount to make them hold the bearing tight. Then the leaking.. With two shims inside the diff (manual calls for) it was too much friction, over heating the o ring and burning it up (yes even the clear one) and the leaking from the center because of the plastic spur which I fixed with some sealer. Also on the shimming of the diffs, I felt it could use some shims front to back on the ring gear, rather then side to side on the differential, but they dont make a shim that fits. They get a little play in the steering but its nothing crazy. Other then that if I had a couple build secrets the car is bullet proof, and a good ride.

The RC8Be is an amazing buggy based on the proven RC8. Although it is not an electric from the ground up, the chassis and suspension is excellent.

Even with the electric conversion power train, the whole buggy is still great driving machine on the track.

We are also waiting on the new suspension arms once AE molds the final ones.

A few have indicated that the RC8Be tends to have oversteer. It because the battery is more forward. Just use a thicker swaybar up front to reduce front bit or use a lighter swaybar at the back for traction there.

I wasn't aware I did so many laps. I have a sunburn that feels like 130 laps worth though! I couldn't get away from the track. Way too much fun and I've waiting too long to do this. I'm just waiting for a straight up race event. Thats going to rock!

Btw, all of my stuff came in for the SC10. So I'm straight whenever your ready to handle some soldering. (I've been toying with maybe trading up for the sc10 4x4 lol) --- I'm sure I'll be sticking with this .



Ron, if you guys end up making both a castor block that works and a diff box that doesn't leak I would also be highly interested in both. I current own your mount and it's indestructible. Granted these items are priced reasonably id most likely be all over it. Then this car truly would be bullet proof.

So you say a stiffer sway bar may help the oversteer issue? Do you have a link or part number you'd be willing to share? Thanks!

Sorry to post this again, but want to sell this tonight and ship it tomorrow - http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9134581

$425 for a roller with Savox servo and 3 sets of tires or $400 without servo!

PM me if you are ready to buy!

I didn't ask about the GRID mount just in case it was part of the casualties on that long broken list. Glad it held up.

Don't have a part number for the sway bars since we got them awhile ago. The AE site or the RC8 nitro thread may have them listed. As long as you use a thicker dia front sway than the ones you have, it reduces front traction which I think you are looking to achieve. But it also reduce suspension sensitivity. So you may consider using a lighter rear sway bar instead. We find that sways are very easy to swap out verse diff lube or shock oil changes and give instant results. High bit tracks requires less front traction.

If we do come out with a castor block it will be a small run so that people can put some high laps on it to ensure it is ready for the big production run.

We get a lot of requests for diff cases, and since ours also leak, we are sure racers will get these.

here are a few pics of my RC8BE at the Jconcepts 1/8th Spring Nationals that were held in Omaha NE this past weekend. I qualified 10th and finished 10th.

Sweet pics I was there too. It was my first bigger race and second time running my car much less 1/8th scale, what a blast!! Was there someone there taking pics?

That was my first big race with an electric 1/8th buggy. Even with the mud I had a blast. A buddy took a few pick of us Iowa guys. I did see a lot of cameras floating around.

I was trying to make this coming weekends run day into a smaller and less "busy" one so we can tackle the whole SC10 then if you want... I think the next run day we may get a couple legit races going...

Ok. I'll leave my RC8 at home to get some overhaul this weekend and bring my SC10 crap and get that all jazzed up. I'm in agreeance with you... lets make it an easy day. Put the SC10 together & onto the track for a few trial / break in runs.

Works for me. I'll see you Saturday. Check your FB.

No one puts baby in the corner! LOL

Anyone have any setup tips for westcoast rc? Or how about for a high bite clay track like that? OCRC, etc...

Right now all shocks and linkages are at the stock settings. Running 553 in the diffs and 27.5 wt in all shocks with the 12 hole pistons.

Drives nice, but Im not sure where to go from here. Well, actually I need track time more than anything to make things faster but I was wondering if anyone had some tips to make it a little easier to drive.

How often do you re-build your diff? It's been a long time since I ran a car with gear diffs.

I have been doing mine every 3 or 4 weeks (because of leakage). Racing & many practice hrs in between.
Not leaking as much as it used to(sanding helped a lot). This time I used 2 gaskets.

And for a different approach:



more here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9201880-post180.html