I'm routinely hitting 160s on my 1410, geared for 16T/32P on mine. I had to put the fan on my SCT esc to keep it from overheating, and now, it's running 120's routinely. So with the 1406, I'm quite sure that you'll be at least hitting that much, and probably even higher. No doubt it's a great 2WD setup, but you're not going to be running that motor in its efficient range.

I still haven't found the shock cartridge (91054) in stock anywhere, and it was driving me nuts. So I went to Home Depot today in search of a temporary fix. I think I have something that will work, has held up just dubbing around the house, will find out if it's track worthy on Wednesday.

I got a 90 cent package of hinged screw covers, clipped off the cap and pushed it onto the threads. Check it out

Obviously, if you think its too slow then why are you asking about it? Get a 1410 or a 550 motor and run it.

Thanks Chuck, I will send him an email .

First race with my SC10 4x4 turned out well. I was able to take 2nd on a track that I had never been to and had limited practice on. I'm running the stock setup with 10k front and 5k rear diff fluid and 35 / 30 on the shocks. I'm currently running an LRP SXX TC V2 esc with a Novak 7.5 HV geared at 16/58 while I wait for my LRP 5.5 X-12L. We were running 7 minute qualifiers and a 8 minute main. The hottest the motor ever ran was 120. While I did lose a bit on the straight due to the motor the truck cleared every jump and carved up the infield. I did notice the truck wanting to get loose at the end on the straight on the sweeper but as I have read on here that can be addressed with some thicker diff fluid up front. The truck rewards smooth driving but did not like to be pushed too hard. This will come with more time on the track and tuning. For now I'm very happy with the truck and everyone seemed to be impressed with how it looked and sounded on the track. Several racers commented on how quiet the truck was. I'm looking forward to my next race with it.

All you guys out there using the Novak 550 5.5t with the 14mm rotor, what are you guys gearing them, just finished mine and used 62/15t 32 pitch, need to go up at least 4 or 5 teeth, just wandering if anyone else using this set up, RX8 on the speedo,,,,

According to Novak you're losing 1200kv using the 14mm rotor with that motor.

I am currently running the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo (ESC and 1410 motor).

I have a Viper VXT10R Lite (without ProGauge since I already have one) and Viper VST 8.5 540 motor on order (order is on hold) and have already paid for it 100%. I got a super deal on it too.

I run on a tight indoor carpet track.

So,
Option 1:
Take the above order as is. Run the Viper ESC and 8.5 540 motor.
Pro: I can get it as soon as possible. (2 weeks)
Pro: I get a really nice ESC
Pro: I can use the Castle ESC/Motor in another vehicle (maybe a 2wd SC to bash with)
Con: 8.5 motor may cook in the SC10
Con: the Viper ESCs do no work at all with sensorless motors, so I can not use the Castle motor with it.

Option 2:
Modify the order to:
Viper VXT10R ESC and Viper 550 5.5 motor, wait a few weeks. This motor is big like the Novaks and may require chassis modification for it to fit and mesh up properly.
Pro: This should be a really nice setup.
Pro: I get a really nice ESC
Pro: I can use the Castle ESC/Motor in another vehicle (maybe a 2wd SC to bash with)
Con: It will probably take a 4-6 weeks for me to get it. (shipped to Canada)
Con: may require chassis modification for it to fit and mesh up properly.

Option 3:
Get a refund on the Viper stuff, buy a Tekin RX8 to run with the Castle 1410. The RX8 will cost me the same as the Viper VTX10R and 8.5 combo.
Pro: Very nice esc, pretty good motor
Pro: Can get it as soon as possible (2 weeks)
Con: Not really the ESC/Motor I wanted
Con: Turning down a super deal on the Viper stuff
Con: I won't have a ESC/Motor combo to put in a basher

What do you guys think I should do?

I finaly got the shocks best yet. talked to an AE sponsered driver and he showed me how
remove the lower dust cover (boot) and the bladder. put in the cap ring seal and fill with oil. put on cap. pump the shock for about a minute to simulate track driving. take out the bleader screw to release the air. pull the shaft down about 2 mm and replace bleader screw.
there should be 0 rebound. if there is rebound, start again.
smoothest so far but i still want to try the new silicone orings posted back a couple pages.
handeled the best so far yesturday. I ran 2-3rd most of the day but had a bad driving day (all driver errors). qualified 4th in the a. finished 5th with the 2cd fastest lap 1 sec behind the sponsered driver (he also had sway bars, huge differance)

hope this helps

Craig, if I had the option, I would go with the viper esc and the viper 550 motor.

should add this to our sticky. wish there was a vid showing this.

very good info.. but If you wish to have shocks with some rebound. should you pull the shaft down 3 or 4 mm ?

good ? I like the feal with no rebound. if rebound helps ur driving style, lmk how it works for ya.

also, jammin sway bar hardware does fit but the wire is to short. I already mounted the links, now just have to find a music store close

Sounds like building the shocks emulsion style is smoother ... I was also wondering about leaving the shock boots off and not shimming the difference if this would be a good way to gain a few more mm of droop. I haven't tried it yet, but one of you might have? There might not be enough play in the outdrives / axles for this to work anyhow.

That might gain you some uptravel, but won't increase droop. FYI