Yes it still has the slipper to mess with, only the internal diff is changed.

Thanks everyone, I'm getting out of on-road racing and I have a couple of Tekin's (RS/RS pro) and I need something to up them in.

going to use these http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...h-32%22/Detail under my ballstuds are these right or i can get these http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...3%2CTC4/Detail which ones better for it


also putting those under the ballstuds do what to improve the truck

Hey guys if anyone is looking for a dialed t4 with a sweet body with good amount of spares hit me up,selling my truck

Can someone please explain to me about rear toe? I Know that you can change the toe block and the rear hubs, but how do they work together exactly and how do you properly calculate your total toe? I've read that it changes your inboard and outboard toe, but have no idea what this means or how it affects the car.also, I'm currently running 0deg. hubs and 3deg. toe block and wondering if i can run .5deg. hubs and just change my toe block to get the same handeling? Thanks!

what shocks should I upgrade from my b4.1 rtr? shuold I get the v2's or kyosho big bores or what?

Here's what you want.

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Categories

They are the proper diameter and thickness to use with the ball studs. Your assembly manual (page 35) can explain what changing the ball stud hight does to the vehicle. Basically the ball stud height changes how much leverage the chassis has on the suspension throughout the turns.

Honestly, get the V2 shock bodies. They work great, and all your current springs, shafts, pistons, etc. will work with the V2 bodies. It's the easiest and most cost effective method.

Reset your link, it just goes to a general page.

It worked for me, even in your quote. I just re entered the link, try again. The part number is ASC9630. Hope this helps.

Well I placed my order Factory Team T4.1 with SC gear diff. What weight silicone should I put in the diff? Associated video I think used (30 shock oil).

LOL, thats weird, it goes to "ALL", starting with all kits.

Try this; http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...-Washer/Detail

These do work really nice.

Start with the recommened associated black grease. Alot of guys play around with different diff oil but most will agree that the black grease works very well. Im sure this will spark some arguments but I have used many different combinations and usually end up going back to AE grease.

Question for the racers and it may sound stupid, but I have been out of racing since before Lipos came out. How many packs do you bring for 3 qualifiers and a main, and how many chargers?

The reason I ask is because of the much higher mah rating and longer charging times. Right now I have 4 packs and 4 chargers rated up to 5 amps for charging and a 30 amp PS.

Thanks.

I run a FT B4.1, FT T4.1, and FT SC10 and usually bring 4 to 5 packs with two chargers and dont usually have to worry about missing a battery during the day

I can get by with 2 packs (SMC Lightning Volts 24C 4100 in the B4.1, 5200 in the SC10). I have 2 chargers, but by the time I come off the track with my 2nd class, the first battery is already topped off. This is usually with 5-7 heats on the board.

This Friday, I was bumped from the B main to the A main in the SC10, and I forgot to hit the charge button after hooking it up while I went back to the track for the buggy main, but the 5200 pack had enough juice to finish its 2nd 6min main without being topped off.

I do have a Dynamite 25C 6000Mah pack I keep charged on the side just in case, and use it for practicing as well. I'm planning on getting another 5200 SMC Lightning Volts as a backup too.