I am running 17.5 buggy too im curious what more are doing for the Tekins setups and gearing. I have looked at the setups on Tekins website already but I have seen people go with standard rpm ranges and 45 timing and 10 for boost with a 35/72 but I've seen this really go all over and I think my car is a little sluggish at spots and would like to gear down more. If anyone has a good 17.5 setup can they post or pm me.

http://www.fantomracing.com/motor-setup.php

This should help you out, some of these drivers use tekin setup, i am not totally familiar with these ESC as i only use Speed Passion.

Hope this help

John

I'd like to figure that one out myself, same speed control, except no timing or boost. Cant quite keep up with the super fast guys and it is sluggish for me at times as well.

Most times when using boost you have to watch temps, if it's running a bit on the cool side, under 120*, then add a tooth until you get in the 140*+ range, there is sort of a sweet spot with the gearing, but don't over do it, it's a fine line..but the motor sort of wakes up...

I don't know if this is the best advice for non timing, but I raced the non timing class at west coast this weekend. The only way I got my duo3 motor to work well was to keep adding teeth. By the time racing came I ended up jumping from a 35 to a 39( it was the only one I could find over a 35). Temps on the motor after 15 minutes were 155-160 and my tekin rs was about 140. Hit about 25-27 mph on the straight and felt really good on the in field as well. Running three clicks of timing and the 12.5mm high torque rigor. I want to try a 38 or 37, but those are hard to find.

After only 3 track days, my rtr mg servo is gone..(now I've got a real excuse to upgrade, Savox here I come). I know I've bashed the thing many times but still really surprised at the failure.

On a seperate note, why does the rear end "hop" after certain jumps (ususally low jumps) softer springs? 30wt in the rear should I go lower?

Well, I would check the shocks, as they are more than likely ready for a rebuild, if its been awhile. They have a tendency to lose oil after time, and may be running on the spring alone.

So I picked up a FT b4.1 the other day I am racing it on sunday in a 2wd open buggy class what I have right now for a motor is an orion 19t its nice but I have no known status of the brush quality or if I would have to cut the comm. could I run that easily or should I go pick up a 17.5 BL system for it? My driving skills should compensate for me not having a wicked hot motor in the buggy.

at most/many tracks there are two buggy classes.
1.27T is stock=17.5 brushless.
2. Mod/open = whatever you can handle
if you've got a 19T some tracks may ask you to run in the mod class. i'm pretty sure that you'll find that the 19T won't be too competitive with 8.5 or 7.5 turn brushless that some might run in mod class- but then again it might haul.

you might need more like 15T or14T Double to be competitive. as you know, mod can be pretty action packed with some drivers taking in seriously if you hold them up/rub wheels or collide with them but you said your driving skills were good so that might not be a problem.

stock can be a bit more relaxed. a hobbywing or speed passion combo can be had for about $100USD or cheaper if you hunt around. any money you spend on cutting the comm (which would be a good idea) takes away from the brushless you'll eventually want/need. but if you've got the $$.
I ran a 27T in 17.5 4wd stock recently and got smoked by other drivers in speed and punch. 17.5 arrived in post and suddenly i was in the action and enjoying it!
you could grab a new 27T brushed and swap out the 19T if it turns out to be too slow. some tracks might just let you run the 19T in the stock class. it'll be fun anyway. good luck

the only class they are running for 2wd buggy is open I might just pick up a lower turn motor or a hot brushless motor. Thanks for the help a couple of the drivers I know are running 17.5s in the class.

A lot of people around here are running 17.5 in mod but we have open speedier with a lot of timing...

I did this last week with my first buggy race. I ran 17.5T with 10* timing in the controller and 72/28. I never felt slow due to the car...my driving was holding me back...which is not surprising, since it was my first time ever driving a buggy.

I need some help..


So I just bought a b4.1 and I got to the shock build and I realized that you can only build the shocks with the blessed shock cap and I was wondering if anyone has a better way to build the shocks like using a shock bladder . If you guys can help me out I would really appreciate it.

They are very easy to build with the bleeder caps. Just put a dab of green slime or diff lube on the bleeder screws to make it easier to get the threads started.

http://www.teamassociated.com/multim...2_Shock_Build/

Thanks for the info, but im more of a bladder guy. To me they seem to work better. So im still looking for a way to use bladders, or at least try them out and see how they work. Is there anyone that might have tried them, or know how to do it?