The bleader caps are much better, but if you insist on trying them, the VCS2 kit has everything you need to convert to bladder caps. The part number is 31123

I use the bladder caps as well. The only parts needed out of this kit are the eyelets, blue alloy retainers, and the bladders themselves. You can keep the O rings too for future rebuilds. One thing I learned is to go 5wt lighter in oil since the air can not mix with the oil and "thin" out the shock oil. I even plan on picking up the half weights as to experiment with them as well. Also, keep in mind the bladders will need replacement eventually. I noticed they can swell up over time, making assembly difficult. The part number for the rebuild kit is 31120. Check this out.

http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=31120

isnt the emulsion shock better for 2wd offroad and plus the bleader cap takes nothing...

im just pulling out my b4 after it sitting for awhile and i need some tips on setting it up such as gearing,toe,and camber
here is my specs
factory team b4
castle 5700kv
castle sidewinder esc
5000 2s
here is my track i will be running
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WokCG...eature=related
any tips would be appreciated

Thank you for the help. What eyelets are you talkin about? I'm confuses

Got a Spektrum S6040 (Couldn't find a Savox at local shops) decent price $75.00. Compared to the old stock rtr servo its like nite and day..WOW! But is it normal for the unit to make that much noise when turning?!? or do I have a defective unit? Is the Voltage protector necessary (haven't had any issues yet)?

A good digital servo will always kind of chatter like that. It's trying to maintain it's position.

The digital servos are a lot louder, it's normal. If you don't have any glitching, then the capacitor isn't needed.

You guys are awesome, Thanks! Probably the best investment so far.

Made the mistake of buying the threaded (Non-V2) shockbodies, just saw the post about TQ racing's big bore shocks ...live and learn.

Make sure to set your EPA's on the radio so you dont overwork the servo. This can cause noise at full lock. You want to set the epa's so that the servo reaches full lock just as the spindles hit their stops and no more.
your servo will last alot longer too.

Ahh... I think mine is off cuz I had to turn the trim adjustment almost all the way to one side just to get it straight. I'll try to get it as centered as possible...Thanx!

Not just the trim, but the EPA (end point adjustments) too.

They aren't better.. they are different.

Hey guys, what do you think would be a good start for gearing for a t4 with a 13.5, small track(18-19 sec) high grip clay? Thanks for any help...

http://www.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse