I must live in your world along with a few billion other people....

Some of you have pointed out how hard it is to change pinions on the SC10 4x4 as explained in the manual because you have to remove the motor with the pinion attached.

That isn't true from my experience on Saturday.

All I had to do is use the provided alen key to turn the pinion screw out.. pulled the pinion off the motor... loosen the motor for adjusting to new pinion size. Slide the new pinion on and tighen it's screw down with the alen key. line up the teeth for both spur and pinion and tighten down the motor.

Was so easy... no need for buttun head hex wrenches... just use el chepo alen key!

This would be all fine and good but there is a reason the first thing I throw away are the stock allens that come with every kit..they do more damage than good.

ThunderbirdJunkie has no problem removing his pinion on the gear side of the motor plate with his Losi driver.

Agreed... I don't use them either... however I will use ONE from here on out on the pinion screw.

I figure this way out after I had it tightened with a button head hex wrench... and the pinion got loose halfway in my Qualifier.

Just saying... with the alen key, it worked quite well for me and it's quite a bit faster than taking the whole motor out and measuring the pinion location on the motor shaft like the manual says.

You can get quite a bit of force on the pinion screw with the key too!

well I think I'm gonna put 5k fluid in both front and rear and see what happens.

my lhs was telling me to run 3k front and rear since our track is kinda loamy.

not sure.

I put 7k front and rear and I kind of wish I would of only put 3k in the rear. noticed that the back of the truck could use less diff lock out of corners.

For those wanting to use the 8ight shocks, it's simple. They bolt right up. The top requires the use of the Losi upper bushings, which are narrower, so you just have to install a 5mm spacer behind them. I used a small bearing for now. If you use the stock upper bushing, the Losi shocks will flop back and forth on the longer bushing too much. Using red springs with adjusters backed all the way out, the ride height is damn near the same as with the stock shocks/springs with the adjusters backed all the way out.

what kind of surface do you run on?

That track was loam in some sections and dust covered hard pack it others sections like corners. I found it was catching tracktion and sending me left and right. I was able to fix this issue by driving slower around the corner and waiting till I was straight to hammer the throttle. Also I loosened up my slipper by quite a bit... but the loss of power for the jumps wasn't any fun.

ok well thats similar to the conditions at my track so what would you recommend to do it right from the get go?

there's a race tomm that i may enter if i get this thing together today.

5K to 10K in the front Diff and 3K to 5K in the rear.

I just built a second SC10 4x4 for my buddy and I put 7K in the front and 3K in the rear diff.

Raced mine for the first time last night. Ran 8th out of 20. I have to have sway bars before the next race. Lots and lots of body roll.

[QUOTE=turbowop;9174009]For those wanting to use the 8ight shocks, it's simple. They bolt right up. The top requires the use of the Losi upper bushings, which are narrower, so you just have to install a 5mm spacer behind them. I used a small bearing for now. If you use the stock upper bushing, the Losi shocks will flop back and forth on the longer bushing too much. Using red springs with adjusters backed all the way out, the ride height is damn near the same as with the stock shocks/springs with the adjusters backed all the way out.


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Is there any need for the Losi front & rear shock spring sets or are the red springs sufficient.

Red springs are just barely softer than the stockers. Great for my rough/bumpy local track.