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Old 05-25-2011 | 04:31 PM
  #6151  
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Originally Posted by toyoter91
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?

I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it. Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
They tend to last a long time. I got about 8 gallons from my original RC8 diffs before the teeth on the gears simply wore out.

It sounds like something is wrong with your diffs. I would double check how many shims you have under the outdrive pins inside the diff. The manual calls for 2 but sometimes 1 is smoother. Especially if you have had to agressively sand the cups to get them true.
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Old 05-25-2011 | 04:33 PM
  #6152  
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Originally Posted by toyoter91
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?

I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.

Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.

Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?

Thanks,

Robby
These diffs have been fairly bullet proof for me. I have an RC8B and RC8T and have raced them for a few seasons without changing diff parts. I rebuild and maintain my diffs fairly often (every few weeks and before major races).
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Old 05-25-2011 | 05:46 PM
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Default update foul

Another update foul for associated was the fact that they dont include the new needed hinge pin for the low b plate. (which it should say is required) So you can cut yours (which means you can't switch back). Not good, hot plastic grinding required/don't forget the parts we didn't tell you about.. sorry just a rant.
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Old 05-25-2011 | 08:37 PM
  #6154  
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Originally Posted by toyoter91
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?

I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.

Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.

Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?

Thanks,

Robby
I never had to change the gears however the Diff Outdrives, Diff housing & the center of Diff gears (89113) do wear out. This time I used a different grease instead of the AE black grease to see if it will last longer. Chk the Diff Outdrives, if you can move them up or down that is your problem.
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Old 05-25-2011 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jwmustang
I never had to change the gears however the Diff Outdrives, Diff housing & the center of Diff gears (89113) do wear out. This time I used a different grease instead of the AE black grease to see if it will last longer. Chk the Diff Outdrives, if you can move them up or down that is your problem.
Will do.

I figured the housings wore out but didn't think the diff outdrives would have already worn out.
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Old 05-26-2011 | 06:08 AM
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Ive only replaced my center gears, only because my housing screws became stripped, and everything came loose under pressue. Im sure you can imagine what happened on the back straight
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Old 05-26-2011 | 06:59 AM
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I have a brand new Tekno V4 kit if anyone's interested. Sad day but my 8th scale projects a bust =(

Good deal for any un tekno'ed RC8

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9168290
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Old 05-26-2011 | 08:32 AM
  #6158  
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Originally Posted by davidfast
Uhhhhh no......You've been reading the 4x4 thread too much.
Negative.
We ran them in the Xray 808's.
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Old 05-26-2011 | 12:27 PM
  #6159  
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I do have a "vehicle" specific question pertaining to gearing...

the article mentions putting "Module (Mod)" pinions with "Module" and "Pitch" with "Pitch" because one is metric and one is American.

The RC8be (when using a Grid Mount) requires a 5mm Mod 1 pinion. The spur in the kit indicates it's 46T, but doesn't indicate if it's a pitch rating or mod rating?

Anyone know the answer to this?
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Old 05-26-2011 | 12:38 PM
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i reused the stock spur with my grid mount, so i kept running the mod 1 pinions. no issues so far...
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Old 05-26-2011 | 03:14 PM
  #6161  
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
I do have a "vehicle" specific question pertaining to gearing...

the article mentions putting "Module (Mod)" pinions with "Module" and "Pitch" with "Pitch" because one is metric and one is American.

The RC8be (when using a Grid Mount) requires a 5mm Mod 1 pinion. The spur in the kit indicates it's 46T, but doesn't indicate if it's a pitch rating or mod rating?

Anyone know the answer to this?
I was under the impression that 1/8 electric buggies were all Mod 1....
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Old 05-26-2011 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Morph'sRC
I was under the impression that 1/8 electric buggies were all Mod 1....
You might be right. I wasn't sure....
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Old 05-26-2011 | 07:42 PM
  #6163  
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Originally Posted by toyoter91
Will do.

I figured the housings wore out but didn't think the diff outdrives would have already worn out.
I measured them with and they did wear down.If you look at the design only grease is the lubricant. It should be bearings but looks like all cars are like that. That is why I used a lot of grease (Green Grease) this time instead of AE black grease to see if it will last longer.
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Old 05-26-2011 | 07:53 PM
  #6164  
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Default No Sway bars?

I will be running on a fairly hard-packed surface that is frequently covered with loose debris and quite dusty. I am thinking no sway bars...

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-26-2011 | 10:33 PM
  #6165  
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Hi I would really like some help on a perfect set up for my rc8be. im running stock gear set up (so far) with a tekin t8 2650 motor and the rx8 speed control with jconcepts barcodes. mainly running indoor clay tracks. I need a battery and a good servo any ideas? also a good spur gear pinion ratio what sizes?
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