Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#6151
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it. Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it. Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
It sounds like something is wrong with your diffs. I would double check how many shims you have under the outdrive pins inside the diff. The manual calls for 2 but sometimes 1 is smoother. Especially if you have had to agressively sand the cups to get them true.
#6152
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.
Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.
Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
Thanks,
Robby
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.
Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.
Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
Thanks,
Robby
#6153
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 231
Another update foul for associated was the fact that they dont include the new needed hinge pin for the low b plate. (which it should say is required) So you can cut yours (which means you can't switch back). Not good, hot plastic grinding required/don't forget the parts we didn't tell you about.. sorry just a rant.
#6154
Okay guys, does anyone have any tips on how to get the diffs to stop blowing up?
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.
Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.
Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
Thanks,
Robby
I have had to replace all three (at one point or another) due to the gears "locking up" even after proper rebuilding a few different times in efforts to fix it.
Each time i tear them down all the gears look normal and do not have any chipped or missing teeth in them.
Do these things just stop functioning once they wear to a certain point? How often are you guys replacing the housings / internals on your diffs?
Thanks,
Robby
#6155
I never had to change the gears however the Diff Outdrives, Diff housing & the center of Diff gears (89113) do wear out. This time I used a different grease instead of the AE black grease to see if it will last longer. Chk the Diff Outdrives, if you can move them up or down that is your problem.
I figured the housings wore out but didn't think the diff outdrives would have already worn out.
#6157
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 345
I have a brand new Tekno V4 kit if anyone's interested. Sad day but my 8th scale projects a bust =(
Good deal for any un tekno'ed RC8
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9168290
Good deal for any un tekno'ed RC8

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9168290
#6159
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
I do have a "vehicle" specific question pertaining to gearing...
the article mentions putting "Module (Mod)" pinions with "Module" and "Pitch" with "Pitch" because one is metric and one is American.
The RC8be (when using a Grid Mount) requires a 5mm Mod 1 pinion. The spur in the kit indicates it's 46T, but doesn't indicate if it's a pitch rating or mod rating?
Anyone know the answer to this?
the article mentions putting "Module (Mod)" pinions with "Module" and "Pitch" with "Pitch" because one is metric and one is American.
The RC8be (when using a Grid Mount) requires a 5mm Mod 1 pinion. The spur in the kit indicates it's 46T, but doesn't indicate if it's a pitch rating or mod rating?
Anyone know the answer to this?
#6161
I do have a "vehicle" specific question pertaining to gearing...
the article mentions putting "Module (Mod)" pinions with "Module" and "Pitch" with "Pitch" because one is metric and one is American.
The RC8be (when using a Grid Mount) requires a 5mm Mod 1 pinion. The spur in the kit indicates it's 46T, but doesn't indicate if it's a pitch rating or mod rating?
Anyone know the answer to this?
the article mentions putting "Module (Mod)" pinions with "Module" and "Pitch" with "Pitch" because one is metric and one is American.
The RC8be (when using a Grid Mount) requires a 5mm Mod 1 pinion. The spur in the kit indicates it's 46T, but doesn't indicate if it's a pitch rating or mod rating?
Anyone know the answer to this?
#6163
I measured them with and they did wear down.If you look at the design only grease is the lubricant. It should be bearings but looks like all cars are like that. That is why I used a lot of grease (Green Grease) this time instead of AE black grease to see if it will last longer.
#6165
Hi I would really like some help on a perfect set up for my rc8be. im running stock gear set up (so far) with a tekin t8 2650 motor and the rx8 speed control with jconcepts barcodes. mainly running indoor clay tracks. I need a battery and a good servo any ideas? also a good spur gear pinion ratio what sizes?



