I was putting together my truck today and when i got to the front shock tower the tower body was missing. I called AE and they said some kits have been missing those or getting two front bodies and they will ship it out ASAP. AE has always had great customer service. My diffs also had barely any oil in them. I did notice that my rear gearbox did not turn nearly as easy as my front. I did follow all the tips on page one. Anyone have this problem?

we will be raffling off a 4x4sc10 this weekend after our mod sc cash race come check it out and win midwest rc raceway and hobbies 1414 hst bedford indaina 47421 contact us at 812 275 RCRC (7272) please call or email your signups entries are $25 and as of right now will payout $250 unless we get more than fifteen trucks

Here is my SC10 with the Novak 7.5HV. Some are saying that you need to modify the chassis to get the HV motor in but it can be done with no modifications. All I did was loosen the motor plate from the trans case so I could slide the motor in place. Once in place I tightened the motor plate to the trans case and the motor to the plate. Its tight but it fits

Gearing 16/62 Temps after 8 min..... Batt 74, ESC 84, Motor 124.

+ YouTube Video

Has anyone come up with a good all around setup? The tracks I drive on are usually large, bumpy, and a little loose.

I just re-adjusted the servo horn, didn't take as long as I thought to get to the servo. 20 minutes total time to pull it out and put it back on. Just make sure you guys get the right servo horn installed from the get go lol.

Took the truck for a quick run and was very impressed, it's very fun to drive. Turns exactly like the 2wd off power, on power it's very precise and planted. Very happy with the truck so far, AE has done a very good job making something completely different but still competitive to everything else out there.

after a couple parking lot runs, i finally got this thing out on the track today. WOW. I am running a castle sidewinder sct/3800 combo with a 17th pinion (48p) and motor temps were barely 140deg after 10 minutes. 5k 2s, 30c lipo. I am running the stock tires for now and noticed that when the clicker is open and functioning, on a full speed straight, going to full brake the truck hooks right hard. I started on page 75 and read to the end here and think i might need to run down and check for some driveline binding. the truck was quick, but with some tinkering, i am pretty sure i can get some better lap times.

how tight is everyone running their belts?

Thanks in advance guys and gals.
Ben

Its hard to tell without seeing.Something is obviously not right. Have someone else at your LHS or at your track take a look at it if you cant figure it out. Sometimes its best to have a second set of eyes give it look. If it were my truck I would take apart the problem area and retrace your steps...

I would like to know this also. Only because I have a bunch of already mounted DE Racing wheels with different tires for my SC8e. I would be nice to try all the different tire types before I buy new ones.

something like this might work
12mm to 17mm adaptor> http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=692

I thought I would give everyone something to think about

Does it pull right when your off power?
Im running my belt: hole 3 in the rear, and 5 in the front.

You crazy SOB! Thats insane.

Man you built yours 3 times faster then Salad fork and he had 2 people lol