I don't have equations or diagrams, but I do have an explanation.

Fill the shock with oil and move the shaft halfway up. Next put the bladder on, you might have to push down a bit to help it seat better. Now screw the cap on completely. Wipe the excess oil off and you're done.

He he you never know... I did peek at the kit last night, looks cool. Impressed with the plastics from what I could tell. I hope to get to the build soon, I will be doing 'how to' vids as I go along. I'm in no hurry to get this built, no place to drive it.

Traitor!

You never know, you might end up hating it like I did lol. Anyhow, good luck with the build bro.

From an engineering standpoint, this kit is a piece of art meets functionality.
Whether or not it dominates racetracks around the US, I am in awe of the design

Haha, I gotta test everything. I try and keep as unbiased as possible on all the products I test. It sucks when something you think will blow donkey balls actually does very well. (Castle 1410 *cough*). It also sucks when something you like takes a crap and you have to post about it.

I'm just excited to build a kit! The Sc10 was the last kit I built, so it's been almost 2 years.

Man, I really gotta ask here: What do you consider a "low end" Hitec servo?

Plus I have never heard of a 9455TG model?????? A 945MG sure, but I dont think those are even made anymore.

All Hitec digital servos should center properly if of sufficient performance specs for the application on hand. If it doesnt, then its defective and needs to be returned, or its not powerful enough for the job at hand and should be upgraded accordingly.

For steering application if your servo cannot center itself properly at a standstill or struggles to do so then you need a stronger spec'd steering servo.

My 645 would be considered a low end model.

I hear ya on the 1410. lol

I just couldn't get excited about the SC10 4x4 when I was building it. Some of the design aspects just annoyed the heck out of me. I ended up selling it but one thing I wanted to point out...I sold the truck as a roller, just like how the box shows. I had a steering servo installed and had to take it out. It took me 20-30 minutes just to take out the servo. Just think, if I had to reinstall it, it'd take me another 20-30 minutes. Almost an hour to remove and replace a servo? Yeah that pissed me off lol. I'm sure with practice I can cut that time in half but the process in itself is ridiculous.

Anyhow, everyone's experience with the truck is different. Mine leaned towards the negative side but there's a lot of guys here that love the truck. It's all about having fun in this hobby

ready for the track this weekend

Why is everyone worried about taking their servos in and out all the time? I can't remember the last time I took a servo out of one of my cars. Now the diffs...there's something to worry about! Haven't tried to take it out yet, but it looks like it's wrapped in a couple layers of plastic armor.

I like mine. quitest, smoothest and easiest to drive 4x4 I have driven so far (which is all cept the durango).

did pretty well with the stock setup. realy could use the sway bars and some fine tuning. hard to get a base cuz the track changed while I was there. (rain last night and 85 and sunny today).

the servo is a pain. I just hope I don't have to change it to often. the savox 1258 has done my very well so far.

Just finished up the paint.

Yea I have the manual here at work and have been peeking at it. It does look complicated, similar to my Tamiya DB-01. Working on that took some getting used to. Not looking forward to the servo install lol.

Couple items, this is my 15th Associated kit build and my least favorite for a couple reasons. I will say that the molded pieces are the best by far though. This kit looks bullet proof just sitting in the bags.

My kit came with no tools for the nuts, just two allen wrenches and the metal link wrench. Since this is all metric now I would have imagined that AE would have included them like all prior kits. Most AE fans don't have all the drivers for these new sizes. M3 and M4 nut drivers. The front of the manual doesn't state what tools are needed that I could find. Just that you need the AE set part # xxxxxx

Diffs were pretty dry, my kit came with no diff oil at all. Not sure if anyones did, seems silly since the instructions show you building them from scratch. So in order to build the kit i had to buy some diff lube.

My kit was missing the lower servo saver arm. Had to buy the whole servo kit from a local shop for 7 bucks for that little arm. (racing this Sunday and couldn't wait for replacement from AE) Part #9100. Little baby jesus was with me since I figured nobody would have that part yet.

The front belt gears, 19 and 20 tooth weren't marked as noted in the manual. Manual states to use the unmarked gear. Counting teeth no big deal but silly.

Regardless I'm friggin excited about this truck!!

So don't touch the bleed screw? Is that only used for emulsion type setup?