Im offering it to my dearest "kongsi".
He might want to call you right away.

where are the pics!!!!!!!????? i show you the results after i mod my sirio like you JP!!!!!!

What do you mean by pinching the sleeve?

Well, over time, sleeves inside the engine wear out. So if you try to push a piston through the sleeve, it has no pinch (no compression).

Theres a process called pinching and it actually "shrinks" the sleeve almost like it came from the factory. So you'll have more compression. Also, you'll have to re-break-in the engine.

Thank you!

Oh!!! i see... thanks for input domo

Not sure oif anyone already asked you this but it means - Motor already broken in.
Break in already made. God knows how many tanks...

Thanks antoniop, yes the engine are alerady broken in from the factory...

Never heard of that one before. I would have thought is you squeezed the sleeve, not only would it be loose in the case but the chrome plating could come loose or start flaking away from the rest of the sleeve. Either of these would render the sleeve useless.

I have used the piston spreading technique before. It expands the piston to give you more compression but it only lasts a short time. I actually watched my dad years back holding a piston in his hand (gripped between his finger and thumb) and spread it with a pair of heavy duty pliers at the trackside. That engine ran for a further 2 months without any problems. Not that I would recommend doing this off course

But I really believe that once an engine starts loosing its compression it is cheaper in the long run to replace the P/S set. While the engine might still run for short periods with little compression it is hurting the conrod, crankpin and bearings due to being able to rev harder.

I'd generally agree with Palmaris Europe.

However, when faced with a X/12 Rody that absolutely flew till it ran out of compression, I figured I'd try the osrocket sleeve pinching service.
What the heck, it was a A$27.00 investment in a A$650.00 engine.

The sleeve to crankcase fit wasn't noticeably different and there was no sign of flaking chrome or anything nasty. I guess we're talking about very small measurements here, so this should not be surprising.

The piston/liners came back with 4mm of top space after pushing the piston up the sleeve as far as possible by hand. To me this seemed rather excessive but I was advised that it would be OK. I ran a couple of tanks through it and became concerned at what I still considered to be excessive piston sticking at near TDC. These Rody cranks are a bit suspect from day one and I didn't want to risk it. I then lapped the piston using a paste type bath cleaner to get the measurement down to 3.3mm, reassembled it and proceeded with the break in. It now felt a lot better and broke in properly. Feel free to laugh at the method, but it worked just fine.

As I say, I agree with Palmaris Europe's thoughts, but this was a pretty cheap experiment with really no down side. Naturally you should not expect to get a new engine back with just a pinched sleeve since the crank pin will be at least somewhat oval, for instance. So, for 27 bucks, if it only lasts one meeting that's not a bad investment.
I also would not recommend doing this.

I also value Palmaris's comments, but I also have used the OS Rocket method on my C-5. HAd it done last year, and still runs strong to this day. In fact, it pulls them all on the track!!
For 27.00, you realy can' go wrong.
Smitty

JP FX comes with fully hopped-up version...

Black crank case, ceramic bearing, black hardened (and lightened) crankshaft... It cost more than $400, damn the .12 engine get more and more expensive these days

Sometimes I kind of think they are way out of line! even cost more then 21 size engine!

I also tend to agree with P.E.. And I also tried the pinch with OSRocket, and I must say that it works quite well, although I recomed getting a new con-rod after running it in.

Could someone please explain what this OSRocket is and is there a web site for veiwing this product or some link.