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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:44 AM
  #391  
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Originally Posted by DRFTPRO
Tension seems good but I will check it. Do you recommend the 13t pinion cuz I was under the impression that going up in the teeth would keep the engine cooler. Thanks a bunch bro!
Are you plugging the sensor cable in or running sensorless?
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:46 AM
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You bet. Kind of want to glue them up for street runs and such. Will probably just throw a set of slash wheels on for that purpose with an overly trimmed basher body.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DRFTPRO
Tension seems good but I will check it. Do you recommend the 13t pinion cuz I was under the impression that going up in the teeth would keep the engine cooler. Thanks a bunch bro!
I had a Slash 4x4 w/Ballistic 550 4.5. I ran a 13 pinion but it got hot. I jumped to a 16 and temps went down. The 13 was reaching max rpm too often causing it to get warm. Just a thought.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:46 AM
  #394  
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I am using a servo extension with a piece of heat-shrink around it as insurance and to keep dust out.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Krio
Are you plugging the sensor cable in or running sensorless?
Velineon is sensorless. I haven't tried running the SC4x that way, but I think it'd probably be okay with it.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Keep'N It Cool
The 60k diff fluid would effect steering like tightening a ball diff would. Thicker fluid would be the same as tightening your diff down.
If you run a front overdrive or rear under drive that will allow the front wheels to pull you out of corners, would benefit most on loose tracks.
The Clicker helps by allowing you to turn into corners better by allowing the front wheels to free spin while you are hitting the brakes allowing the back tires to lock a little and slide you around tight corners similar to how a 2 wheel drive vehicle would turn a corner.
So would you would reccomend using these in combination or only indivdually?

For example, what combination (if any) would you suggest for running on a medium/loose/loamy track with 1/8th scale jumps?

Chris/anybody?
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I found that when leaving the belt tensioners on the uppermost setting (shown on some AE setup sheets), the belt is a little too close for comfort to the sides of the belt cover and could rub.

I don't understand why belt tension is considered a "setup" Seems like there should only be one correct tension and should not have much effect on car otherwise except a bit more friction to the front end.

Can someone elaborate on why there are different belt tension settings shown on the setup sheets?
You want to run it as loose as possible without skipping under hard accel/braking. It is good to know how tight they were running their belts with given motors on their track surface. However, belt stretching and age can vary the setting needed.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:49 AM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by skypilot
not happy at all, pre built gear diffs are crunchy, case halfs don't fit together and have gaps. tighten the case screws and it binds.
I found the gear cases are a little warped, but seemed to go together and seal reasonably well with all the screws in. Make sure your trans bearings are fully seated and there is no flashing, that will help.

I believe the binding is the flats on the sides of the gears crashing into the teeth of the opposing gear. I suspect that a slight bevel/chamfer on that side of the opposing gear teeth would prevent it from snagging the flats.

I considered sanding them a bit to do just that... but then I figured just running it will clearance it better.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:49 AM
  #399  
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Originally Posted by TocSin
Velineon is sensorless. I haven't tried running the SC4x that way, but I think it'd probably be okay with it.
You know that the VXL ESC has a sensor port, right?
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TocSin
Velineon is sensorless. I haven't tried running the SC4x that way, but I think it'd probably be okay with it.
I know its sensorless, but it does have a sensor port on it. I ask because the motor gets very different degrees of timing depending on how its plugged into the vxl and could be why he's running so hot.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:51 AM
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dupe

Last edited by CentralCoaster; 05-11-2011 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
You know that the VXL ESC has a sensor port, right?
I didn't know that. Learn something new every day. Is that the AUX port? Never popped it open to be honest.

Heck, I'll be bolting a Novak 550 4.5t in my boy's Slash 4x4 tonight then, heh.

Last edited by TocSin; 05-11-2011 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by oitz
Started my build tonight. A couple of notes:
1. I wish the shock trees where harder plastic as the shock mounts dig into the channel which is supposed to hold them while you tighten the nuts on the back.
You can get around this by using the shock nyloc nut to back it up while tightening instead of relying on the plastic channel.

The upper shock bushings are way too sloppy though. Also I noticed the springs, like every other coil spring, aren't perfectly straight and they can rub slightly on the shock body. This will only get worse as the piston and ID of the shock wear.

2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
No issues with my little traxxas cross wrench. (5.5mm?) It would be amusing to watch someone try and assemble it with the stupid kit wrench supplied by AE.

Last edited by CentralCoaster; 05-11-2011 at 11:50 AM. Reason: 5.5mm not 5mm
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:58 AM
  #404  
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I know this truck don't need a Carbon Fiber parts but my ears are open for any ideas or suggestion guys.

Steve Nguyen
www.snrgraphite.com
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Old 05-11-2011 | 10:58 AM
  #405  
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Originally Posted by oitz
2. I am not sure if my 5 mm nut driver shrunk, but I had to use a 7/32 nut driver to tighten all of the 5 mm nuts. (try to figure that one out)
The 4mm ID nuts aren't 5.5mm?
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