That sounds like a plan. I ran a 10 min practice, 2 seven min heats and. 20 min main and she came in at 206 on the exergen. I still had it wrApped with an exception of the top portion of the head. I also never stayed in the throttle more than 3 secs even on the straight. I love this motor in my truggy. So is everyone running 7.5 mm insert in truggy and 7 in buggy.

Hi guys

I always run 7.5mm reducer on my truck and 7mm on the buggy. The truck needs more power because of the weight, and I always feel that we pull to much on a buggy engine. I think you should try the F11 which is a 7ports on the truck, it's a monster! For about $280 street price, don't wait any longer!!!
Also, I use the oval restrictors on my cars to give more torque and better fuel mileage!

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...duit=02011-001

thanks Reno - I have just seen these pop up on amain although they are backordered. when will they be in stock

cheers
Ben

It was shipped to them early this week, so it should be available soon!

Just ordered some from amain, fuel mileage here i come.

I have a WS9 engine that I’ve just broken in. I’m about 3/4 a gallon through it now. Used the heat cycle method and kept it rich. Only just started really trying to open her up.

I added a shim to the head, so it now has 3 copper RB shims totalling .4, because I run 30% nitro.

I’m running OS P3 plugs.

The problem is, to get the engine to perform at high revs I need to lean it out to the point that it stops smoking at high revs and starts running hot (260F). Otherwise it’s too rich and boggy, never really screams like I’m told it should.

This is my first RB engine and I don’t want to run it too hot because I’m told they should go nuts and run on the rich side. Should I pull the extra shim out and drop the nitro to 25%? Or do I just need to wait until it’s had more fuel through it?

What is the elevation where you live? Most people I know run the 30% without adding headshims. 900 feet it about the lowest I have ever ran my engines with no shim added and 30%.

At 3/4 of a gallon it's not all the way broken in, it will run a little warm and not very fast until it fully breaks in. So yes just give it some more time and it will come around... That engine screams on the top end!! What pipe do you have on it?

Also know that since you put an OS plug into the head button you should always run OS plugs. They have a different taper on them and change the shape of the head button causing the RB plugs to not seal properly. It's possible an RB plug will work again but it's a better possibility that it's going to leak.

Thanks for the reply!!!

I'm in Singapore. So sea level, hot (25- 30c) and humid as hell. It has the 2045 kit on it.

Ok will be a little more patient and see how it is after 1.5 gallons.

Thanks for the tip on the plug.

You think I should take the shim out or leave it in to be safe given how hot it is here?

I would leave that extra shim till it finishes breaking in. Then try pulling the shim out and run like half a tank and then pull the cooling head off and check to ensure there is no detonation or small pit's on the piston or button. I have seen a lot of people in here post that they run stock shims with 30% at sea level, but I have never been at sea level to try it myself.

The 2045 is a good pipe for the engine to help it get the best possible run time. If you really want to see it scream try an 086 pipe on it.

30% at sea level doesn't normally request an extra shim. For break in it's ok, but for maximum performance, it would be better to pull it out

Enjoy your new ride!

Is this the bugger? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...A-086-Polished

Thank you both!

That 086 pipe is very old school, that will not connect to your current header with the springs like it should. I have not seen an 86 RB pipe in quite some time... Novarossi makes a 9886 that will work good for it. Dynamite has an 086 but I think the Nova one performs a little better. You will notice a drop in fuel economy with the 86 pipe tho.

Clutch with RB engines.


I know that historically RB engines really liked a late clutch such as 1.1 springs and carbon shoes.

With the newer RB engines, such as the B11 or Shark 10, what would be a good starting point for the Ascendency clutch on these engines?

That stiff clutch setup was with the square stroke engines and the older heavy cars of the past. I run a JQ car with a B11 and Ascendancy clutch, I use the steel flywheel with 2x .9 springs on carbon shoes and 2x 1.0 springs on Alum shoes with the stock gearing... My car accelerates very very well and I have never felt I needed to get more snap out of the engine.

I also have the X11 and that has the exact same clutch setup and it too has more than enough punch. If you end up on a super high bite track you may want to try the 1.1 springs on the alum shoes and the 1.0's on the carbons but I could not see myself needing it honestly.

Also with that steel flywheel your clutch shoes last a long time!!!!

Speaking of the new F11...how is that engine? I've heard a couple of times already it's a good truggy engine. Same power as the B11 then?
It has a reasonable price tag from what i've seen.