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Old 03-28-2011 | 07:21 AM
  #4951  
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Originally Posted by slash_me_up
So..... The buggy was fast! However, After one day I had several screws come loose, broken front and rear chasis brace, broken wing mount, and two cracked batteries. The batteries were the turnigy hard cases. I think these were just some cheap batteries. The case was super thin. I might be shooting an email to hobbyking (BTW I will stick with hobby partz for now on!) about warranty on these craptastic batteries! I'm really disappointed but then again I'm not the best driver in the world LOL!! I can't beleive all these parts broke, I thought they were bullet proof!? Oh yeah and a broken hub carrier on the rear. I have been so bumbed I haven't even really broke her apart to check for any other damages. I met another guy there and this was his first track run with his too. A few jumps and he had broken chassis breaks too! Anyone else? I can upload pix later. I might switch to aluminum braces.
Maybe you should switch to a 1900 motor.

I think I recall a thread about the 2250 being too much... :P

j
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Old 03-28-2011 | 07:25 AM
  #4952  
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Originally Posted by Bpittin
I have a question about the rx8 system, I perfectly happy with it as it is and how i have it set up. I was wondering if the hot wire was worth buying? I bought the rx8 system used and I don't know much about it besides using the settings on the actual esc itself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If this should be on the rx8 thread mybad.
I think the most important part of the Hotwire is being to change the cutoff from 3.0V / cell to 3.2V. 3.0V is too low.

Also any firmware upgrades can only be loaded via the Hotwire.

And who knows, maybe after playing with braking strength and stuff you will find an even better setup. It isn't too expensive, considering the cost of the car, motor, esc, upgrades etc...

j
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Old 03-28-2011 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by buggy8
how long does this take to ship?
I ordered mine last week. Shipped 2 days after I ordered (when they emailed me my tracking number)

Should show up this week unless US customs hates me.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 117
BTW, when you charge those batteries, keep a very close eye on them. If the cells were damaged, they could fail during charging.

I'm scared to even use those batteries! I wouldn't even store them in the house. They are currently outside on a concrete patio with nothing within 10' of them! I emailed hobbyking today, so I should hear from them next month.....

Has to be faulty cases! Gens Ace from here on out!
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Old 03-28-2011 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by schnellschnell
Maybe you should switch to a 1900 motor.

I think I recall a thread about the 2250 being too much... :P

j
LOL too much power was never the issue smart @SS!!! LOL my driving or lack of is the issue!!!!!!!
A pro at the track saw my car and I let him drive it, He loved it and it looked good when he was driving. When I drove it looed like a dead cockroach!!! (on its back always!)
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Old 03-28-2011 | 07:35 AM
  #4956  
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Originally Posted by slash_me_up
LOL too much power was never the issue smart @SS!!! LOL my driving or lack of is the issue!!!!!!!
A pro at the track saw my car and I let him drive it, He loved it and it looked good when he was driving. When I drove it looed like a dead cockroach!!! (on its back always!)
Just givin you the gears! Ha.

I'm still waiting for the local tracks to open. Snowed again last week. Argh. Bloody Canada.

j
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Old 03-28-2011 | 08:34 AM
  #4957  
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2250 is to much for a buggy IMO...i run the 2050 and its still to much! i would use a 1900 or even a 1700 if i was to do it again...
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:07 AM
  #4958  
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
This is odd you had to install the grid mount this way:
If you look at the instructions provided you would have seen which holes are for Tekin, and if you look even closer you can see the offset of the plate on the motor thus giving you the correct idea of how that plate should be mounted. I think you had to install the motor first and they line the holes up because you failed to look at the instructions in greater detail.

I can say this in conclusion about the Grid Mount or anything else on this car....

If you're experiencing problems -- it's probably user / builder error. Just re-check your work.



Well, can't believe I f**ked that up. Now I'll need to retake all my pictures...

Funny how may photo's i've posted of this and nobody caught that aside from Bhodi! Thanks Bhodi & thanks Billy for catchin that stupid shiznit.

I should of been a little more specific, there is a spacer between the center diff and the chassis, this is where my problem was lining everything up to mount the Castle/Grid/Diff to the 4 chassis screws with one hand.

If you had read my signature you would see I am running the Castle Creations 2200Kv motor and not the Tekin, the mounting holes are different and two of my mounting screws are behind the Spur gear. After taking the center plate out of the Grid mount I still couldn't get the right angle for the wires off the 2200KV motor, to allow enough room to rotate the center plate in the Grid Mount to allow for pinion mesh.

Hence the whole separation thing. But before you decide to comment on my attention span and reading comprehension again, at least semi know the facts and then be sure to have read your own.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
2250 is to much for a buggy IMO...i run the 2050 and its still to much! i would use a 1900 or even a 1700 if i was to do it again...
Yes Yes Yes we have had this discussion before!!! Thanx for your not needed opinion IMO!!!
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by schnellschnell
Maybe you should switch to a 1900 motor.

I think I recall a thread about the 2250 being too much... :P

j
You know I had to chime in on this one
+1

Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
just remember slow is always faster and now looks like its cheaper you never go all out when u first drive the track..you find the right lines and roll over jumps then start getting more and more confident just like dirtbikes and supercross!
+1 Chime again

Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
dont sell it! this is how you learn..pretty much loctite everything on 8th scale! all the vibration makes the screws loose
Agreed, don't give up. I'll be going thru mine with lock-tite as well.

Originally Posted by slash_me_up
The batteries only got one run on them at the track before I noticed cracked cases. These batteries should hold up way better then that. They also broke at the exact same place.
That's some damage right there. It almost looks as if the batteries wern't secure enough. Do you have the pads in the tray still? If not, maybe put them back in?

Originally Posted by RickyBBad
How could you do that much damage and then request warranty work. LOL LMAO
that's funny
+1
But the batteries you might get... idk.. It's not exactly a product defect after all of that info. on the wrecks.

Originally Posted by GreggW
Dude! Did you put a stick of dynamite under it? I've broken a wing mount and a rear upper camber link. And they were both from Truggys crashing into me. I've never even heard of all this mayhem! And to warranty the batteries. You pay shipping back to hong kong.
Originally Posted by GreggW
I have 2 huge projects coming for you guys. I've just been freakishly busy with the Tsunami relief effort. I'm working on gathering the information for the thread right now. As of today, I've worked 12 days in a row. And I go to school 4 nights a week. I'm working until next Saturday before I get another day off. But try to bear with me while I get through work. Lots of things have been mentioned about the Grid mount this weekend. I also have a solution for that, again stay tuned. Im working on things that are almost done. I didn't plan on this Tsunami happening, and that's when I get busy when world emergencies happen.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/42210976...sacramento_ca/

This only tells about 1/4 of the story.
Gregg, no doubt you will be releasing a masterpiece. I just hope there is no character limit in these posts! LOL!

Originally Posted by buggy8
how long does this take to ship?
For me it took a little over 3 weeks. It was stuck at customs forever! I'm sure the weather played a factor in it as well.

Originally Posted by jhhack
What 15 dollar coupon? The 15 off 125? Assuming you add 25 dollars of someting else to the 100 dollar battery to use that coupon, or is there another coupon? Thanks
Sign up to be a super saver member (it's worth it):
Today it just came out from tower - anything over 99.99 is free shipping.

So now you get the 15.00 off and free shipping?
yeah... now we're at the same price as the GENS ACE and a much better battery.

And... best of all... it's in stock!
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:19 AM
  #4961  
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Originally Posted by slash_me_up
Yes Yes Yes we have had this discussion before!!! Thanx for your not needed opinion IMO!!!
Can of worms. OPEN.
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:24 AM
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Why are there so many emotionally delicate people the RC world? Shessh!!!

Originally Posted by Manshoon
I should of been a little more specific, there is a spacer between the center diff and the chassis, this is where my problem was lining everything up to mount the Castle/Grid/Diff to the 4 chassis screws with one hand.

If you had read my signature you would see I am running the Castle Creations 2200Kv motor and not the Tekin, the mounting holes are different and two of my mounting screws are behind the Spur gear. After taking the center plate out of the Grid mount I still couldn't get the right angle for the wires off the 2200KV motor, to allow enough room to rotate the center plate in the Grid Mount to allow for pinion mesh.

Hence the whole separation thing. But before you decide to comment on my attention span and reading comprehension again, at least semi know the facts and then be sure to have read your own.
Tekin or Castle, it doesn't matter. The instructions show the holes for both.

1. People run with the GRID mount without the center diff spacer. It's not needed. Just another one of the +'s to running with a GRID.

2. After taking the center plate out of the Grid mount I still couldn't get the right angle for the wires off the 2200KV motor, to allow enough room to rotate the center plate in the Grid Mount to allow for pinion mesh

I'm sorry, I just do not understand. Are you talking about the plate for the diff, not the mount? I'm not sure what you're talking about with the "Grid center plate". But I think I know what you're talking about with the wires...

You can actually secure the GRID motor plate to the mirror side of the motor plate. This will allow you to rotate the plate to mesh the pinion to the spur. If you look closely, the GRID plate should be a little bit off center. You can change that to it's reciprical side.

In the instructions as well Don't fret man... I put my ESC fan on top of the whole thing! I even installed my rear diff. backwards! My shock cup was on reversed. We all miss stuff in the directions... don't take offense.

Originally Posted by slash_me_up
Yes Yes Yes we have had this discussion before!!! Thanx for your not needed opinion IMO!!!
Feelings hurt alert!
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
You know I had to chime in on this one
+1



+1 Chime again



Agreed, don't give up. I'll be going thru mine with lock-tite as well.



That's some damage right there. It almost looks as if the batteries wern't secure enough. Do you have the pads in the tray still? If not, maybe put them back in?



that's funny
+1
But the batteries you might get... idk.. It's not exactly a product defect after all of that info. on the wrecks.





Gregg, no doubt you will be releasing a masterpiece. I just hope there is no character limit in these posts! LOL!



For me it took a little over 3 weeks. It was stuck at customs forever! I'm sure the weather played a factor in it as well.



Sign up to be a super saver member (it's worth it):
Today it just came out from tower - anything over 99.99 is free shipping.

So now you get the 15.00 off and free shipping?
yeah... now we're at the same price as the GENS ACE and a much better battery.

And... best of all... it's in stock!

The batteries didn't make it all day. They were very very secure with the pads as well!!! If only one broke I would understand, but both broke in the exact same spot? little fishy!! That was about 15 minutes of run a peice. I had to switch to my other hobbypartz batteries for the rest of the day. I didn't want to take any chances on explosions. So the rest of the wrecks I was stating happened with my blue lipos and they help up perfect! these hobbyking cases are super thin and brittle, I do not suggest anyone buying them!!! I will never buy them again!
I know a can of worms is open but I will still love my 2250 motor!!!
I have to go over the whole buggy with nail polish and locktite!!
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:26 AM
  #4964  
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Originally Posted by Manshoon
I should of been a little more specific, there is a spacer between the center diff and the chassis, this is where my problem was lining everything up to mount the Castle/Grid/Diff to the 4 chassis screws with one hand.

If you had read my signature you would see I am running the Castle Creations 2200Kv motor and not the Tekin, the mounting holes are different and two of my mounting screws are behind the Spur gear. After taking the center plate out of the Grid mount I still couldn't get the right angle for the wires off the 2200KV motor, to allow enough room to rotate the center plate in the Grid Mount to allow for pinion mesh.

Hence the whole separation thing. But before you decide to comment on my attention span and reading comprehension again, at least semi know the facts and then be sure to have read your own.
I think most of us with Tekin motors omitted the spacer, lowering the center diff and motor. It fits, there was some concern about closeness of spur to chassis, but in the end most wanted the lower CoG. It was a juggle to screw in, but without the spacer it wasn't too bad.

No experience with that motor. The motor mount screws are behind the Spur? Or Pinion? Can you post a picture of the mounting - hard to understand the problem in text.

I think Gregg had the Castle setup with Grid for a while...

j
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Old 03-28-2011 | 09:32 AM
  #4965  
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Were you trying to install the Grid mount in the car with the motor already installed in the mount? If so, why?

As for the CC 2200kV motor, it doesn't matter. I was using a CC Neu 1800kV motor in my car before I bought the Tekin setup, and I was using the Grid mount. Never a problem with the Grid mount with the CC or Tekin motors.

If the wires hit the rear brace, you can rotate the motor 90 degrees in the mount, and that should solve your problem. It did for me, at least. Nice thing about the Tekin is that it uses 6 mounting screws, so you can rotate it in 60 degree increments if you want (although you may have to remove the front end bell to only move it 60 degrees, which is not a big deal).

Also, I don't understand your comment about the spur gear. You should be installing the Grid motor plate without the pinion on the motor and without the motor installed in the mount, so I don't understand how the spur gear is causing a problem. If you're referring to the pinion gear, you install the motor mount screws before you install the pinion, so again, I honestly don't under what issues you're having.

This is the way I installed everything:
1. Install the Grid motor plate onto the motor.
2. Install the pinion on the motor.
3. Install the Grid motor mount (the part that holds the spur and the motor plate) into the car.
4. Install the motor (with the motor plate) into the mount.
5. Set mesh a little loose, then tighten (I found that the mesh tightens ever so slighly when you tighten the clamping nut).
6. Check mesh all the way around the spur.

Note that if the wires hit the rear brace, rotate the motor in the motor plate and reinstall.

Originally Posted by Manshoon
I should of been a little more specific, there is a spacer between the center diff and the chassis, this is where my problem was lining everything up to mount the Castle/Grid/Diff to the 4 chassis screws with one hand.

If you had read my signature you would see I am running the Castle Creations 2200Kv motor and not the Tekin, the mounting holes are different and two of my mounting screws are behind the Spur gear. After taking the center plate out of the Grid mount I still couldn't get the right angle for the wires off the 2200KV motor, to allow enough room to rotate the center plate in the Grid Mount to allow for pinion mesh.

Hence the whole separation thing. But before you decide to comment on my attention span and reading comprehension again, at least semi know the facts and then be sure to have read your own.
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