The pinion mesh changing during a rotation would be the spur gear not being perfectly round. Nothing with the Grid itself. Set your pinion correctly to the tightest spot and you should be good.

Never used an Elite, but found the Grid very easy personally.

j

Hey guys, been running this buggy since it was released like 3 years ago? updated it a while ago with the "B" parts and now with a full set of SNR parts. Running a T8 1400kv mmpro 6s futaba bls452 and a dx3s. Pretty much the kit setup as far as shocks and suspension go but with 5-7-3 diffs instead. Drives like its on rails with great power. The SNR stuff is top notch and the new geometry really makes the buggy easier to drive really hard. RTR weight is 3330g, not too light but good enough for me. Enjoy the pics!

Have you had any bearing issues with the Grid? I noticed that mine had enough slop to allow the outer drive (where the dogbone goes in) to wobble enough to rub the aluminum. I replaced the bearings, and it's no better! I don't want to have to buy a new one. This one only has 4-5 packs on it!

I totally agree. I would call.

Nice!

I'll check when I get home. I don't think so though.

This is odd you had to install the grid mount this way:
If you look at the instructions provided you would have seen which holes are for Tekin, and if you look even closer you can see the offset of the plate on the motor thus giving you the correct idea of how that plate should be mounted. I think you had to install the motor first and they line the holes up because you failed to look at the instructions in greater detail.

The rotation tightening, then loosening has nothing to do with the mount. The mount is completely stationary. If you're ok for some of the rotation, then it gets tight for the rest of the rotation; you have an unevenly shapped pinion gear or spur gear (I'd bet the spur gear since it's plastic). I wouldn't lose any sleep over this as after a few runs should break it in just fine.

I'm not sure who is having trouble with the Grid Mount. Mine went together with ease, and like Billy said, the mounting plate isn't needed. With the purchase of additional plates it makes for motor swapping a sinch.

I can say this in conclusion about the Grid Mount or anything else on this car....

If you're experiencing problems -- it's probably user / builder error. Just re-check your work.

Well, can't believe I f**ked that up. Now I'll need to retake all my pictures...

Funny how may photo's i've posted of this and nobody caught that aside from Bhodi! Thanks Bhodi & thanks Billy for catchin that stupid shiznit.

Hi all,

After a couple of years in TC, I'm thinking of getting into the RC8 scene - the RC8be to be exact! Can anyone tell me, is there anything else that I need that doesn't come the kit? (Obviously not the motor, ESC and servo)

I often hear about different 'mounts'. Is this just for the motor or ESC. I don't have the kit yet, so I don't have anything to look at yet.

I am looking at either the:
Castle Creations 1/8 Mamba Monster/Neu-Castle 2200kV
or
Xerun 4274 200kv system

Thanks for any help or advice.

RC_LIPO

I was too busy LMAO.

just kidding, funny how you can miss what is right in front of you sometimes.

j

Hi RC,

Every single question you asked is within this thread somewhere, and it's a big answer to be honest . I would either search out your answers by searching within this thread, or wait for gregg because he's going to be posting a 100% informational thread on the RC8be which should answer 95% of any questions you may have.

But welcome! I will say it's an awesome car!

It is in reference to the mount that holds the motor / pinion and center diff together. The two popular ones are the Grid and the Elite mount.

Other things that are optional are the 10x1.1 AE shock pistons, mugen gaskets for the diffs (remember to sand the diff housing), getting the updated diff o-rings (the diff ones are clear in the new set). Those are the common ones. Can't get to link all this right now - search this thread though.

What did I miss?

j

Like others that have installed the Grid mount, mine dropped in without any issues. I've even R&R'ed it a few times, again without any problems.

Also, as already pointed out, the mesh getting tight for part of the spur rotation is the spur and not the mount. You'd have the same problem with the stock or Elite mount. That's one reason why I will set mesh and check for at least 1 full rotation of the spur.

The bearing fit in mine nicely, and there is no additional play with the outdrive.

Recommending a Tekin RX8 and T8 setup. Also the FT front and rear hubs, but they're quite expensive. Also the FT wing mount, so you can get the aluminum standoffs that replace the stock plastic standoffs.

Thanks to you and Gregg. I like the idea of the extension to make hooking up the Hot Wire. I will have to look for the futaba one, the eflite is very light, probably wouldn't make any difference but I want it right. Thanks

First, check that your tekin endbell is oriented correctly. I had one of mine from tekin that the endbell itself was actually rotated.

Second, all spur gears do have a high spot and this is what you are feeling at that tight spot.