for all the racers out there what droop measurements is everyone running and is everyone checking from shock bolt to shock bolt?

trying to find a good indoor set up tight and technical most run super soft wishbones and soft wishbones

Yes, I would like to also know where you check ride height - I thought it was to the bottom of the chassis. For the front I measured behind the kickup portion in the middle, and in rear at the middle.

But this seems to say finding ride height at 4 points on each arm.

Jason

Whoops, see that you said Droop, not ride height.

I measure droop from shock bolt to shock bolt as per the manual, page 32 I believe. I undo the top end of the shock and measure from top bolt to the bottom bolt(still attached). When it is set up right the top of the shock then slides on perfectly - that is using the recommended lengths.

Jason

Too bad AE does not really put droop on their setup sheets. I have to check the manual on page 32, but if it is the same method of guessing center to center of those bolts, then it's far from accurate. Droop could be more accurately measured on the c-hubs.

no one read my question on post ?

heck no, too much work
just cover with a rag and blow stuff away from esc and servos. Servos might get misted but never drenched. Been doing this for 3 years

I only replace the gaskets if the leak.
Viscosity of oil changes with all the heat generated there. If your car does not leak oil, do you blow off the oil changes?

the oil also gets black and dirty. Just a good idea to keep the sandpaper like oil outta there.

no, Losi has a special vented shock cap to use with the foam.

Thanks for the help. I ran a 20T this past weekend and the motor temp was 158. I TQ'd and took 1st! I am very pleased with the buggy. I am buying the aluminum input cups and axles to lighten her up a little. Im hoping to run a second faster at the next race. By the way, JConcepts 3D's tires are dialed!!

They show a caliper to measure the distance - I suppose you need to estimate where the center of the bolts are, leading to error. You could just measure each bolt, divide by 2 and add both values to the inside to inside measurement. A bit of a PITA, but should provide better measurements -no?

Measure the the C-hubs - you mean the castor blocks? Not following you here, but then I am neck deep in reporting our weekly backups for my boss.

j

RE DROOP: This is a huge adjustment and you would be amazed at how many really fast guys dont even know if they have more droop on the front or the rear of their cars.

I have never used the 'Shock Length' method because if you change the way the shock is mounted it is going to change the droop.

I take the wheels off my car and set 2 of them on a flat surface and place the buggy on top of the wheels and measure the distance between the 'ground' and the bottom of the threads of the wheel hex head.

I have found 29mm front / 29mm rear makes for a nice neutral car. More rear droop vs front (30 front / 28 rear) is great for tight tracks with a lot of slow 180s.

Less rear droop vs front (28mm front / 30mm rear) takes away some steering and can make the car push and then snap oversteer.

If you use this method you can change shock mounting locations and maintain droop setting you prefer.

Yes, c-hub or castor block. You mount the buggy on 30mm setup blocks on a setup board and then measure from the base of the setup board to the bottom of the block. This is how it's down on on-road touring cars. In fact, you do it with the shocks off, so the shocks mean nothing.

Aw man, now I need to buy more stuff.

Seriously, that is good info - I'll try that tonight. So then the numbers given by AE in the manual are useless if you change measurement method, right?

Cool, thanks. Didn't think such a small increment would change handling so much. I'm going to play with that some.

j

It really changes how the car feels and reacts.