It is upside down, I promise!

See the aforementioned post about how the wires should be connected to the motor; they need to go from the back to the front.

it really doesnt make a difference as long as its secured!

Ok, no doubt there's a few things to talk about on this one

I don't think this is entirely accurate. I think from the back to the front is the most common way to do it, but mine are actually soldered coming straight down on it. It should be perfectly fine. I have plenty of wire for Chassis flex and all of the connections are right.

I may consider back to front before spring is here, idk... I'm going to take another look at it and contemplate.

Again, not so sure if this is a set way to do things.

+1 Million. That sucker is definitely ripping off.

That's the servo horn that comes with that servo. If he really wants to you it, just take a dremmel to one side of it. Why bother wasting a perfectly good servo horn right? Might as well use it!

If this video upload works. Tell me if it sounds ok.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...p/dfcd005f.mp4

Yeah last time I took the motor off for quick cleaning I put it back on one rotation wrong. After taking motor off and turning more toward the ESC I have about an inch of leeway now. That should be enough right?










+1 Million. That sucker is definitely ripping off.

It does.

Maybe just the angle of the last picture but your steering arms look straight and the servo horn is at an angle. One of the 1st things to setup is the steering.

+ YouTube Video

Direction of the wires coming off the motor has been discussed at length before and i'm pretty sure the outcome was a recommendation from Tekin to have the wires coming off the front of the motor to stop the tabs being pulled.

In the video your tyres/tires () are ballooning quite a bit. Well worth getting those taped up as you'll eradicate pretty much all of that.

water, "dishwasher," won't hurt anything. As long as you dry it off and re-lube everything no rust or corrosion should form. Simple laws of science here...

Obviously it works for some and scared off others. I think it's dumb to call something dumb unless you've tried it.

The main problem with the dishwasher is the potential for water to seep into the bearings. If/when water gets through the seals it will ruin the bearings which can cost up to $80 to replace.

I think the discussion was heading more toward an "Operability Issue" versus potential "tearing" issue, like wiring it from the top or the back wouldn't cause it to function correctly. I know that's not the case 100%.

For the tearing... I can't see how that will happen even going from the back with enough slack. I did mine coming from the top.

Quote:
Direction of the wires coming off the motor has been discussed at length before and i'm pretty sure the outcome was a recommendation from Tekin to have the wires coming off the front of the motor to stop the tabs being pulled.


Definitely more support of running wires front to motor tabs but at the same time if you run em back to motor tab would be ok as long as you secure e.g: chassis brace via zip tie so no load or stress are on motor tabs or solder connections.

Ok,

Everything you guys have stated has been fixed. I put new servo horn on and it is adjusted correctly per video above. The fan has been fixed LMAO no wonder it wasn't cooling that much.... As far as the soldering, they will just have to stay the way they are until I add the quick connects in the middle of the wires. I did adjust so they have more slack though. So I don't think they will be ripping off anytime soon. As far as the balloning... These were some EL Cheapo tires I got for like $25 for all four. Preglued as well. So can't fix that either.

However,

I added the video of it running on blocks so you guys could tell me if everything SOUNDS ok but nobody did. Can you guys please listen to my video above and tell me if everything checks out ok?

Depending on what type of bearings you are running is how you should clean bearings. Sealed bearings in general are not waterproof some what resistant. There are special application *WATERPROOF Bearings* you can purchase for your application which in this case you can use water to clean but other than that it is generally not a good idea to clean *sealed* bearings with water especially pressurized or submerged, as they will enter the seal. Most general application sealed bearings usually would only resist dirt,dust ect..so it would not form into grit when mixing with bearing grease in turn will ruin/damage the bearing. There are many types of bearing cleaners and lube out there for our application.

agreed on the topic of bearings.

I was referring more to the rest of the car being washed. I have never washed my bearings in water but pretty much everything else gets hot soapy water.

I use a tupperware bowl with a lid on and rigorously shake it (not bearings). but of course I use an air compressor to remove all water then 99.9% alcohol to make sure no water is present. Good topic