Team Associated RC8Be Thread
02-21-2011 | 08:06 PM
#3211
I'd be curious to hear this as well.
Actually, you will only use 4 bolts on it if you're running a tekin. You can use one more of the other 2, but you will have to bore out the hole a bit wider to fit a 4mm button head versus the 3mm's.... So, I'd just stick with using the (4) 3mm's.
And yeah, you can screw, unscrew, all day long if you want. But for convenience and simplicity, I'd just get an additional motor plate for your second motor. Thus, you can just pop off the pinion, pull the motor out, put the other one in and put the pinion back on. Mesh it up, you're off. It could be done in literally 60 seconds.
Actually, you will only use 4 bolts on it if you're running a tekin. You can use one more of the other 2, but you will have to bore out the hole a bit wider to fit a 4mm button head versus the 3mm's.... So, I'd just stick with using the (4) 3mm's.
And yeah, you can screw, unscrew, all day long if you want. But for convenience and simplicity, I'd just get an additional motor plate for your second motor. Thus, you can just pop off the pinion, pull the motor out, put the other one in and put the pinion back on. Mesh it up, you're off. It could be done in literally 60 seconds.
02-21-2011 | 08:09 PM
#3212
Depends on the diameter of the button head used. The button head screws I used were too large, so I had to turn them down some on my lathe. If you find some that are smaller in diameter, they'll work without any modifications.
02-21-2011 | 08:10 PM
#3213
I ordered all my button heads from Tony's Screws and they fit without modification for those that may be interested.
02-21-2011 | 08:11 PM
#3214
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Although, I only used one of the 4mm screws, because the other 4mm screw was interfering with the motor plate being installed into the motor mount. One of the guys from Grid actually confirmed this is an issue in their design. Although, I'm happy with 5/6 screws in place.
02-21-2011 | 08:14 PM
#3215
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
idk... it all worked out in the end though
02-21-2011 | 08:20 PM
#3217
I run the de skids on my losi's and I have not had any problems with them. They are beveled enough so whether it's plastic or aluminum dragging, it's not going to be that much. I still set my ride height based on the chassis and not the skid plate. They do wear down quickly. As thin as those skids by de are made, if they are hitting, I am willing to bet 90% of the time the chassis is going to hit the same thing. In fact, because they do wear down so quickly, I am considering just running without them this year and making it an annual maintenance item to just replace the chassis.
02-21-2011 | 08:23 PM
#3218
You must be running a ultra soft setup to be wearing the rear skid so much, I've been running the same rear skid for over a year, couple hrs a weekend On indoor clay and it's hardly worn, also run the DE front bumper. I'm runnin the original ghea pistons with AE 40wt and minimal droop. Last forever. The only time they rub on mine is when clearing a 35ft 6 pack lol! This was on the Tekno V3 chassis though, I just put together a Tekno V4 chassis and the DE rear skid looks great still, just a couple mild scratches. Guess it depends on where your running and the setup used.
02-21-2011 | 08:32 PM
#3219
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
You must be running a ultra soft setup to be wearing the rear skid so much, I've been running the same rear skid for over a year, couple hrs a weekend On indoor clay and it's hardly worn, also run the DE front bumper. I'm runnin the original ghea pistons with AE 40wt and minimal droop. Last forever. The only time they rub on mine is when clearing a 35ft 6 pack lol! This was on the Tekno V3 chassis though, I just put together a Tekno V4 chassis and the DE rear skid looks great still, just a couple mild scratches. Guess it depends on where your running and the setup used.
I've seen video upon video of these cars just smashing to the ground after every jump. You see, "Up she goes", then SMACK! And it's the same way off every jump.
Does this suspension ever allow the chassis not to smack over every single jump? And if it does.... could I please have the inside as to how to set one's suspension in a manner where SMACK may not necessarily be a regular things? LOL...
02-21-2011 | 08:36 PM
#3221
Tossing an 8lb buggy 35 feet with 2 inches of shock travel and not have it bottom out isn't easy to do. It's all about setup. Shock oils and ride heights and tires need to be adjusted for each track.
02-21-2011 | 08:39 PM
#3223
Dropping these cars from anything higher than 2 foot the chassis is pretty much going to hit. Rebound seems to help this though. If the track has jumps with decent downsides, I will run more rebound. If the landings are flat and no downsides, I do not run any rebound which is where you normally seeing the chassis slamming. The rebound makes the car very unstable on flat landings. Taking it out keeps it planted instead of bouncing.
