Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#2599
I've been meaning to chime in on a few recent topics of discussion but the thread is moving so fast I can't keep up
. So here goes:
Integy parts are $hit, period. They use sub par materials in all of their parts, hence the reason they are so inexpensive to buy. When buying Aluminum upgrade parts it's helpful to know what grade of Aluminum they are using 6065/7075 for the intended application:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ount-w-Bearing
*note that King Headz and other top notch manufacturers always list the grade of aluminum used in their parts construction.
Integy parts are great if you are building a shelf queen but not for a serious racer like the 8lbs RC8BE. Save your money and buy quality parts, King Headz/Racers Edge/Robitronic/Dynamite. For reference, I've had an RC8BE for a little over a year and the only upgrade parts I've installed were the following:
- Elite RC motor mount - ease of maintenance and install of the motor
- Lightweight Aluminum drive line components - couplers and stub axles to reduce rotating mass
- FT F/R Aluminum hubs - stock hubs are ok but when running an 8lbs car I wanted the added strength of the CNC front hubs. Rear hubs have the optional inner hole mount, which I run, and they are CNC over the stock plastic. Did I mention the car weights 8lbs
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON INTEGY
Sanding the Diff cups:
The reasoning behind sanding the diff cups is too remove any material left behind after they are popped out of their molds. By litely sanding the diff cup face, use a high grit count (220 and above) a touch of oil and a figure eight pattern for a few seconds and you will have accomplished the task, you remove any imperfections ensuring you have a good seal between the cup and gear. As for using the Mugen gaskets, I don't see the need. My diffs never leak using the stock gaskets and Kyosho p6 orings. Also, when assembling the diff I use a touch of mobile 1 synthetic grease on the outdrives, o rings, and under side of the sun gear, Voila a diff that doesn't leak. AE did a fantastic job on the design of their diffs and are by far one of the lowest maintenance diffs on the market, set it and forget it.
. So here goes:Integy parts are $hit, period. They use sub par materials in all of their parts, hence the reason they are so inexpensive to buy. When buying Aluminum upgrade parts it's helpful to know what grade of Aluminum they are using 6065/7075 for the intended application:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ount-w-Bearing
*note that King Headz and other top notch manufacturers always list the grade of aluminum used in their parts construction.
Integy parts are great if you are building a shelf queen but not for a serious racer like the 8lbs RC8BE. Save your money and buy quality parts, King Headz/Racers Edge/Robitronic/Dynamite. For reference, I've had an RC8BE for a little over a year and the only upgrade parts I've installed were the following:
- Elite RC motor mount - ease of maintenance and install of the motor
- Lightweight Aluminum drive line components - couplers and stub axles to reduce rotating mass
- FT F/R Aluminum hubs - stock hubs are ok but when running an 8lbs car I wanted the added strength of the CNC front hubs. Rear hubs have the optional inner hole mount, which I run, and they are CNC over the stock plastic. Did I mention the car weights 8lbs
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON INTEGY
Sanding the Diff cups:
The reasoning behind sanding the diff cups is too remove any material left behind after they are popped out of their molds. By litely sanding the diff cup face, use a high grit count (220 and above) a touch of oil and a figure eight pattern for a few seconds and you will have accomplished the task, you remove any imperfections ensuring you have a good seal between the cup and gear. As for using the Mugen gaskets, I don't see the need. My diffs never leak using the stock gaskets and Kyosho p6 orings. Also, when assembling the diff I use a touch of mobile 1 synthetic grease on the outdrives, o rings, and under side of the sun gear, Voila a diff that doesn't leak. AE did a fantastic job on the design of their diffs and are by far one of the lowest maintenance diffs on the market, set it and forget it.
#2600
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,775
From: Orlando / Maitland, FL
I've been meaning to chime in on a few recent topics of discussion but the thread is moving so fast I can't keep up
. So here goes:
Integy parts are $hit, period. They use sub par materials in all of their parts, hence the reason you never see the grade, T6/6065/7075 of Aluminum mentioned in their descriptions:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Silver-Hitec
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Arm-Set-Blue
Integy parts are great if you are building a shelf queen but not for a serious racer like the 8lbs RC8BE. Save your money and buy quality parts. For reference, I've had an RC8BE for a little over a year and the only upgrade parts I've installed were the following:
- Elite RC motor mount - ease of maintenance and install of the motor
- Lightweight Aluminum drive line components - couplers and stub axles to reduce rotating mass
- FT F/R Aluminum hubs - stock hubs are ok but when running an 8lbs car I wanted the added strength of the CNC front hubs. Rear hubs have the optional inner hole mount, which I run, and they are CNC over the stock plastic. Did I mention the car weights 8lbs
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON INTEGY
Sanding the Diff cups:
The reasoning behind sanding the diff cubs is too remove any material left behind after they are popped out of their molds. By litely sanding the diff cup face, use a high grit count (220 and above) a touch of oil and a figure eight pattern for a few seconds and you will have accomplished the task, you remove any imperfections ensuring you have a good seal between the cup and gear. As for using the Mugen gaskets, I don't see the need. My diffs never leak using the stock gaskets and Kyosho p6 orings. Also, when assembling the diff I use a touch of mobile 1 synthetic grease on the outdrives, o rings, and under side of the sun gear, Voila a diff that doesn't leak. AE did a fantastic job on the design of their diffs and are by far one of the lowest maintenance diffs on the market, set it and forget it.
. So here goes:Integy parts are $hit, period. They use sub par materials in all of their parts, hence the reason you never see the grade, T6/6065/7075 of Aluminum mentioned in their descriptions:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...m-Silver-Hitec
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Arm-Set-Blue
Integy parts are great if you are building a shelf queen but not for a serious racer like the 8lbs RC8BE. Save your money and buy quality parts. For reference, I've had an RC8BE for a little over a year and the only upgrade parts I've installed were the following:
- Elite RC motor mount - ease of maintenance and install of the motor
- Lightweight Aluminum drive line components - couplers and stub axles to reduce rotating mass
- FT F/R Aluminum hubs - stock hubs are ok but when running an 8lbs car I wanted the added strength of the CNC front hubs. Rear hubs have the optional inner hole mount, which I run, and they are CNC over the stock plastic. Did I mention the car weights 8lbs
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON INTEGY
Sanding the Diff cups:
The reasoning behind sanding the diff cubs is too remove any material left behind after they are popped out of their molds. By litely sanding the diff cup face, use a high grit count (220 and above) a touch of oil and a figure eight pattern for a few seconds and you will have accomplished the task, you remove any imperfections ensuring you have a good seal between the cup and gear. As for using the Mugen gaskets, I don't see the need. My diffs never leak using the stock gaskets and Kyosho p6 orings. Also, when assembling the diff I use a touch of mobile 1 synthetic grease on the outdrives, o rings, and under side of the sun gear, Voila a diff that doesn't leak. AE did a fantastic job on the design of their diffs and are by far one of the lowest maintenance diffs on the market, set it and forget it.
7150 alum =P
Obviously i only bought the center bulkhead, because it not a moving part. Overall i do agree that integy stuff is crappy.
#2601
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?pid=11616
This stuff is great as it does not require a long curing process like conventional liquid thread lockers. Also, you can use CA glue for the plastic side of the mount in a pinch. You could even go up to 4x14mm mounting hardware on the plastic side to give a bit more bite. I can honestly say that I've never had my center mount screws back on the plastic side of the mount.
#2603
I thought you did have the ERC mount, my bad! Since you've got it run it. Do you plan to race your RC8BE? If so, then regular servicing will be part of your routine so keep the stock diff mount in your pit box as that Integy mount want endure repeated insertion and removal of both the top plate and chassis mount screws. Let us know how its works out for you!
#2606
Are you saying that piece is made out of 7150 aluminum? If so, do you have any links to those specifications? I can't find anything searching Google, and I find it very hard to believe that Integy would use such an uncommon (for consumer products, at least) aircraft/aerospace grade aluminum in their products.
#2607
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,775
From: Orlando / Maitland, FL
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...76&p_catid=113
Not much for description, but it has T7150 in the title... it was only $5 compared to the $17 for the blue...
Not much for description, but it has T7150 in the title... it was only $5 compared to the $17 for the blue...
#2608
Are you saying that piece is made out of 7150 aluminum? If so, do you have any links to those specifications? I can't find anything searching Google, and I find it very hard to believe that Integy would use such an uncommon (for consumer products, at least) aircraft/aerospace grade aluminum in their products.
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...75&p_catid=113
Where are you getting it that Integy is using 7150 grade Aluminum?
http://www.alcoa.com/global/en/produ...sp?prod_id=610
I think you have been misinformed my friend!



