Ya she did!!

lol yes she did yes the sensored part is what im reffering to

Don't have any experience with the 1/10th scale sensored MMP. Just with the Mmm and its not as smooth as the Tekin. I drove an 1/8 scale Mugen buggy with the Tekin setup. That's why I went to it. And if it wasn't the motor/esc combo. I'm switching to a Mugen

Simple, exchange it for a mamba monster and traxxas mount. Ive seen so many esc rip out, and ive ripped out so many esc just being servo tapes in. It scares me. I like my esc bolted down =P

Here are some pictures of my RX8 install. Note that I need to switch the motor wires so they're coming around the front of the motor.

BTW, does anyone know the PN for the RC8Be decal sheet?

have you not had any troubles with your EC5s?

I had a nightmare with mine, and went back to deans.

No problems so far with the EC5 connectors. What kinds of problems were you having?

maybe it was my soldering job, but the wires ripped out a couple times. Along with that, I had 1 connector which constantly unplugged it's self, as well as another case that cracked. I went back to deans, they seemed like a good idea at first =P baba

do you guys suggest running the alum chasis braces? I had some on my sc8e, but the screws broke off from the chasis area, and i replaced them with the plastic ones as i wanted to keep running. Ive not replaced the chassis brace since installing the plastics ones, not sure if i want to spend the $40 or so on getting them for the rc8... but the blue is nice

IMO, anything that keeps the chassis stiffer allows the suspension to do its job properly. However, everything I keep reading for RC car tuning suggests that there are times when chassis flex increases traction. This is 100% contrary to full scale chassis tuning, though.

As for the connectors, IMO, the EC5 solder holds the wire much more securely since the entire cup is filled with solder and secures the wire in a full circle instead of securing the wire along one side, like the Dean's. I haven't had any problems with them coming unplugged, but I have not been using them that long. I'd likely replace the connector shell if I had that happen to me to see if that fixed it. If not, probably just replace the entire connector.

I hope that they don't give me problems. I just ordered like $35 worth of EC5 connectors!!!

Im sure you will be fine. Like i said, i think it was my soldering technique.

Speaking of soldering, if you want a VERY slick soldering station that's not expensive at all, check out the Hakko 936ESD. Well under $100, and solders awesome!

http://www.frys.com/product/454489

The MMM is jerky, hard to finesse the slow corners so have changed my style to be more of an on or off the gas approach. From mid throttle and up everything is fine and you can feather the medium speed corners no problem.

I do not suggest running the braces. Your car needs to flex for off road to maintain traction and the stiffer braces do not allow this to happen. Most of the losi's that we run the chassis has quite a bit of flex and adding the stiffer aluminum only makes it handle worse.

I run touring cars also and depending on traction you can setup the chassis with more or less flex also. Rubber tire cars which normally have less traction have their chassis with more flex whereas foam tire cars use a stiffer chassis due to less need of traction.

i finally got a decent pen solder, but ill keep that in mind.