[QUOTE=GreggW;8567926]The track is in Antioch, and it's indoors. Well they call it indoors, it's outdoors covered.
[QUOTE]

oh haha so its one of those tracks. looks pretty fun. hopfully ill get a chance to go out and race it sometime this year. but the grid motor mount looking pretty sexy

Sorry to ask, but this bearing, is this an additional support for the pinion gear? If so, does it mean that the shanks on all gears have the same diameter? I have been wondering about this since i first saw this wonderful motormount

Yes, it's one of those tracks. Lol. I'm probably going to go out there tomorrow and do some practicing.

They only make it to fit Castle and Tekin. Which have the same shaft diameter

Ok, thanks for clearing this up. But that don't keep me from making this little collar in my lathe so i can put it on the motoraxle and have it supported in the bearing, or maybe even machine down the shank on my gear if it has a too large diameter Well, that is if i end up with this mount sooner or later

The mount looks really at home in your RC8Be Gregg!

As for the confusion on the mounting holes for the motor plate. The Neu/Castle motors are like all other motors with M3 holes at 25mm mounting centers spaced 90 deg circular pattern, which is four holes for the motor.

The Tekin is slightly different where the mounting holes are at a 25mm mounting centers but spaced 60 deg circular pattern allowing for 6 holes. The Tekin has four of the six holes M3 and two with M4.

So essentially, any motor can be used.

The ball bearing is a M5x13mm. 1/8 motor for cars application have 5mm shafts. If you decide to put a special motor in with either a 4mm or 6mm shaft, just change out the bearing to a M4x13mm or M6x 13mm.

If you don't like the ball bearing, you can also take it out.

The other thing we highly recommend is to use more than two mounting screws if you are going to racing on a bumpy and jumpy track. With three or more screws, you have added insurance if one comes loose.

Man, I just spent $140 on the Team Associated FT front and rears in Aluminum. Hope they are at least twice as good as the Integy ones.

j

I thought I had read somewhere that they only fit the castle or Tekin. But there you have it, straight from Grid. I have 2 screws installed and
Loc tited in. I need to pick up a few more. I would also recommend getting an aluminum forward bulkhead because my top forward screws don't get all that tight. That will be my next purchase along with the new hubs. And schnell, I can't imagine the factory team ones are all that much better than the new Integy ones. They are both billet and this one is hard anodized. So we will see. These look good too. I'm in though. I'll order some in a few days.

No worries there, you'll be happy with the AE FT stuff.

Billet does not mean automatic quality. Our mounts are machined from USA grade billet aluminum.

Anodizing is only surface protection.

I was actually looking for the FT stuff before I found these. The FT ones are awesome. I just really don't want anything else blue. I want to get the other steering top plate and get rid of the blue one.

The top steering plate is available in black ano part# 89236

That's exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks Grid

Your problem with the front plastic bulkhead is normal. We use only the plastic ones because they are very light. Just get a new plastic front bulkhead and replace those front metric screws with 4-40 x 1" socket caps. The stock metric ones have fine threads which chews up the plastic quickly. The 4-40 is imperial and coarse and do not. Keep the rear ones metric.

Also we use plastic rear carriers because they are cheap to replace and hold up well. The other thing to consider is to keep the unsprung weight down. As you go further out from the suspension arms, try using light parts to boost suspension performance. If the wheel/tires could weigh nothing, buggies would drive on rails.

Thats a good idea. I never thought of getting different pitch screws. Thatd a good idea! And I have a spare set of plastic rears because I watched my friend break a set first time out. I broke my right rear upper turnbuckle luckily the hobby shop at the track had a few bags.