57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
01-24-2011 | 08:19 PM
#6376
01-24-2011 | 08:21 PM
#6377
I ran a 2.9 ratio on mine with in stock mode if thats helps with a starting point.
01-24-2011 | 08:32 PM
#6378
We race 21.5 open esc together with 17.5 no timing on a similar sized indoor carpet track (80 - 90ft straight + sweeper). Main issue with open 21.5 is getting good performance for 6 minutes. Too much timing and you'll fall off at the 4 minute mark, not enough and the 17.5's out motor us. So its a fine balance, but when you hit the sweet spot it may be a smidge faster than the 17.5 no timing setup.
For FDR, I would start somewhere between 6.0 and 6.5 and adjust from there.
For the motor, advance the endbell to the max position
For the ESC, download the new firmware release #01212stock, as the settings I'll share were run with the beta version of it.
#4 Level 7
#9 one down from the MAX timing setting
#12 one down from the MAX timing setting
#13 1 (1800 rpm start)
#14 .2 seconds for the delay
#15 3
With the above, I ran a single motor fan and was coming off the track around 150F after 6 minutes. The other settings likes brakes, etc are typically very driver specific so I didnt list them.
Jimmy
01-25-2011 | 01:36 AM
#6379
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 38
Today whilst racing I have had problems with my esc/motor. I am running the 110 software on a GT2.0 LPF in 13.5 touring in a small hall, indoor rubber tyre. The motor kept going into sensorless mode whist running. When it did this the car would judder whilst running and be something like half throttle. I pulled the car off the track and I knew that it was going sensorless as the green light was flashing.
I turned the esc off and on again and it ran sensored with full power for about a minute, and then went sensorless again. After ~20s the car would slow to a crawl and then get faster, almost up to full speed. When I pulled the car off in this state the red light would come on with the throttle, but the green light didn't come on again at full throttle. Turned the car off and on again, motor ran at full sensored power and the green light came on at full throttle. This wasn't a problem with the radio as I adjusted the end points to make sure that it wasn't due to the high point drifting.
My next thought was that it could be the sensor wire so I swapped that with identical results. I then swapped the motor, and again identical results. All in I tried two motors (one GM and one Novak) with 4 sensor wires (Speed Passion, Losi and Novak), the only constant was the esc.
Sometimes the problem seemed to be triggered by brushing the track markers, but other time it would just go sensorless in the middle of the straight. Could this be a problem with the sensor connectors in the esc, or is it possible that it could be a software problem? I always double flash the esc firmware and reset the esc neutral and end points. Other things I considered were issues with the power capacitor.
I'm hoping that someone may have some ideas before I have to go and buy a new esc. As the problem usually happens about a minute into a race its a bit difficult to diagnose at home. I have never overheated the esc or motors as I run in a 10x10m hall and there is no need to!
Also, I am interested in the GT2.1 EX esc. Is this a completely new esc or is it a different case for the GT2.0? I mainly run 13.5 touring, but occasionally 4WD mod offroad on high grip surfaces and would like one esc for both classes to replace my tired old GTB.
Cheers
Ben, UK
I turned the esc off and on again and it ran sensored with full power for about a minute, and then went sensorless again. After ~20s the car would slow to a crawl and then get faster, almost up to full speed. When I pulled the car off in this state the red light would come on with the throttle, but the green light didn't come on again at full throttle. Turned the car off and on again, motor ran at full sensored power and the green light came on at full throttle. This wasn't a problem with the radio as I adjusted the end points to make sure that it wasn't due to the high point drifting.
My next thought was that it could be the sensor wire so I swapped that with identical results. I then swapped the motor, and again identical results. All in I tried two motors (one GM and one Novak) with 4 sensor wires (Speed Passion, Losi and Novak), the only constant was the esc.
Sometimes the problem seemed to be triggered by brushing the track markers, but other time it would just go sensorless in the middle of the straight. Could this be a problem with the sensor connectors in the esc, or is it possible that it could be a software problem? I always double flash the esc firmware and reset the esc neutral and end points. Other things I considered were issues with the power capacitor.
I'm hoping that someone may have some ideas before I have to go and buy a new esc. As the problem usually happens about a minute into a race its a bit difficult to diagnose at home. I have never overheated the esc or motors as I run in a 10x10m hall and there is no need to!
Also, I am interested in the GT2.1 EX esc. Is this a completely new esc or is it a different case for the GT2.0? I mainly run 13.5 touring, but occasionally 4WD mod offroad on high grip surfaces and would like one esc for both classes to replace my tired old GTB.
Cheers
Ben, UK
Ben
01-25-2011 | 01:46 AM
#6380
Nice track
We race 21.5 open esc together with 17.5 no timing on a similar sized indoor carpet track (80 - 90ft straight + sweeper). Main issue with open 21.5 is getting good performance for 6 minutes. Too much timing and you'll fall off at the 4 minute mark, not enough and the 17.5's out motor us. So its a fine balance, but when you hit the sweet spot it may be a smidge faster than the 17.5 no timing setup.
For FDR, I would start somewhere between 6.0 and 6.5 and adjust from there.
For the motor, advance the endbell to the max position
For the ESC, download the new firmware release #01212stock, as the settings I'll share were run with the beta version of it.
#4 Level 7
#9 one down from the MAX timing setting
#12 one down from the MAX timing setting
#13 1 (1800 rpm start)
#14 .2 seconds for the delay
#15 3
With the above, I ran a single motor fan and was coming off the track around 150F after 6 minutes. The other settings likes brakes, etc are typically very driver specific so I didnt list them.
Jimmy
We race 21.5 open esc together with 17.5 no timing on a similar sized indoor carpet track (80 - 90ft straight + sweeper). Main issue with open 21.5 is getting good performance for 6 minutes. Too much timing and you'll fall off at the 4 minute mark, not enough and the 17.5's out motor us. So its a fine balance, but when you hit the sweet spot it may be a smidge faster than the 17.5 no timing setup.
For FDR, I would start somewhere between 6.0 and 6.5 and adjust from there.
For the motor, advance the endbell to the max position
For the ESC, download the new firmware release #01212stock, as the settings I'll share were run with the beta version of it.
#4 Level 7
#9 one down from the MAX timing setting
#12 one down from the MAX timing setting
#13 1 (1800 rpm start)
#14 .2 seconds for the delay
#15 3
With the above, I ran a single motor fan and was coming off the track around 150F after 6 minutes. The other settings likes brakes, etc are typically very driver specific so I didnt list them.
Jimmy
Thanks again for your help.
cheers
01-25-2011 | 03:28 AM
#6381
When I plug my LCD programmer into my computer it comes up with software version 100617. Is this a new version or is something wrong? Nevermind...just figured it out. Early morning brain fart..
Last edited by SpeedySST; 01-25-2011 at 03:46 AM.
01-25-2011 | 08:12 AM
#6382
Just got this esc and had a few questions? I downloaded v 1.33 and also noticed v 1.35 just got released, should I download this new version ? I would be using both a 17.5 boosted as well as a 13.5 boosted, should I use the same softwear , just not really sure how this esc all works I do have the program car and what not as well. Thanks.
01-25-2011 | 09:49 AM
#6383
Tech Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 469
From: Northern Ireland
01-25-2011 | 01:46 PM
#6385
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Just got this esc and had a few questions? I downloaded v 1.33 and also noticed v 1.35 just got released, should I download this new version ? I would be using both a 17.5 boosted as well as a 13.5 boosted, should I use the same softwear , just not really sure how this esc all works I do have the program car and what not as well. Thanks.
Yes...it is the newer version then 528STOCK and you should try it (101212STOCK). It is not just for ProStock 2.1 it is for the whole GT series ESC. We leave the 528STOCK there because some ppl prefer that version over the new one.
01-25-2011 | 01:47 PM
#6386
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
01-25-2011 | 03:57 PM
#6388
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5
Yes, please download this latest one from today and upload to 1.35.
Yes...it is the newer version then 528STOCK and you should try it (101212STOCK). It is not just for ProStock 2.1 it is for the whole GT series ESC. We leave the 528STOCK there because some ppl prefer that version over the new one.
Yes...it is the newer version then 528STOCK and you should try it (101212STOCK). It is not just for ProStock 2.1 it is for the whole GT series ESC. We leave the 528STOCK there because some ppl prefer that version over the new one.
With 528STOCK I ran my SP Ver. 3 17,5 motor and FDR 4.3 on a large indoor carpet track, motor timing was standard (In the middle, 5 degrees I guess). And ofcourse 7.4v LiPo in my 1/10 TC.
With this setup I ran every speedo setting maxed out and the motor was about 85degrees celsius after 5min heat so OK.
Do I have to change motor timing to 10degrees? I would like some advice because if I do this, the FDR should be different also.
With the setup I ran I needed more punch out of corners, but laps were faster with FDR 4.3. The new 101212STOCK software might solve this, with lower SC boost RPM right?
01-25-2011 | 07:51 PM
#6389
Hi Skypilot, I always reset the esc to the radio after updating the esc firmware, and had tried this during racing. This is what I meant in the original message about resetting the neutral and end points. This was not the problem. When turning the esc off and on again the green light always came on to show that I was at full throttle. It was just half way through races that I had a problem. I will try updating to 528, but I like the performance of 110 as I don't need any boost for the track I'm racing on.
Ben
Ben
01-25-2011 | 07:56 PM
#6390
who am I to disagree.
maybe if YOU were to ask for a link to some race results with before and after lap times.... I would ask but they don't listen to me.
