Bpittin- If you bought the car used, it would be a good idea to go through the diffs and shocks and change out all the o-rings, just as a precaution. Also, since you'll be rebuilding the car, it's a good idea to loctite everything down. There's different opinions on what to loctite, but I use blue loctite on just about every screw, cause t doesn't hurt and can only help. Check the pins and cvd's to make sure they are in good order, and clean and grease the drive shafts while you're at it.

As far as electronics, good luck on a consensus. 4s is popular because that is ROAR approved. Look for something with at least a 35c rating or above, soft case lipo's aren't ROAR approved, but it just matters what your track says about softcase and whether or not you want to run hard or soft cased batteries. There's no performance difference, just safety differences.

All 8th scale ESC's have people saying good and bad things about them. The mamba speed control is stout, but sensorless, which I personally don't like. The Tekin RX8 is sensored, which makes it smoother and they have very good customer service. Their updated RX8's seem to be more durable too. For a motor, the Tekin 1700 or 1900 would probably be best for that track. It's not a big track and anything larger than those motors would just make the car harder to drive, imho. And pinion will depend on motor. When you decide on the motor to run, then you can look into gearing. Search "gearing" on the "Search this thread" option at the top of the screen, should help you get opinions on where to start and motor temps to look for.

Servos..... welll I run an Associated DS1015, but you'll get many opinions on that too. I would try to find a servo with around 150-200 oz/in. of torque.

There's no right answer, there's a lot to a racer's preference. A good idea is to head down to the track and try to scope out some of the 8th scale guys' cars and see what's working for them. Kind of a long reply, but that was a loaded question. Good luck.

No Brandon, you haven an RC8Be, you came to the right place... Just about all of the parts for your car are going to be a preference. There are many parts that perform identically, but like Chevy versus Ford, people have their preference. Everything is the same way with these.

As for Motors the most popular are Tekin and Castle Creations, and the size is going to depend on what youre running on. It sounds like you have a pretty good size track to cover. I would look at 1800 to 2200Kv. Both companies offer good setups. Tekin being sensored and castle creations having both sensored and sensorless. Sensored is going to be a smoother drive than sensorless. But many people, including myself run sensorless, some of us feel like you have more control over how the speed control controls the car.

Servos are going to be the same way, once you get the minimum specs to run in a buggy, its going to come down to what speed you are looking for, i.e how fast you want the buggy to respond to steering inputs. I have a Associated XP DS1015. 201 ounce inches of torque and 0-60 degrees in .10, but its $100 I got mine from Tower with the discount for $85. some people dont want to pay that. but I say its insurance because if you put a cheap servo in there and you crash the buggy at 40 MPH into a wall because the cheap servo failed, its going to cost you servo money and other repairs.

Shock oils and gear lubes are going to mainly depend on track conditions, same for tires. every track is different. best thing to do is talk to other guys out there and see what they are running so you can at least get something close.

Lipos are tough, the battery box in this buggy is pretty small compared to other kits. 143MM long x53MM wide are all that fits in it. There are plenty of lipos that will fit it, but it all depends on the amount of money you want to spend. At the track you, you arent going to be able to handle speed much more than 4S which is a 4cell Lipo. 5 and 6 with these buggys are waaaay too much power. My 4S pack stands the front wheels up most of the way down the back stretch at the track.

So much of this is going to come down to track conditions and driving capability, you can always over do it, and tune it down, but if you under do it, you have to buy bigger until you get what you like.

Chris Brown and I said almost the same thing.

Just ordered a Gens Ace 5C 4S 5000Mah pack from Hobby Partz. I cant wait to charge this puppy at 20Amps. I will admit its uglier than crap, but it should be nice... Hard case too. $66

Yep, I ordered 4 of them the other day.

Are you looking at charging them at 20Amps, or something close?

I need to choose a servo. Which of the following is the best to use

Savox SC-1256TG Standard Digital "High Torque" Titanium Gear Servo
Sold on A Main Hobbies. com

or

XP Digital DS1015 Hi Torque/Hi Speed Digital Servo




thanks
Peter

That's a good Savox servo 277 torque. 1015 has 201. 201 is more than you'll ever need for a buggy. 1015 is .10 versus .15 for the savox. And the 1015 makes no noise unless it's trimming. The savox is very loud. I just bought my 1015 last week. Drove it for the first time today. Love it. If you have tower hobbies supersaver club discount you can get it for $85 shipped.

Thinking about it. I have a 25 amp power supply that is pretty old and I am considering buying that junsi one because of it's size and newer technology. I am so used to charging my others at 1c that it really does not bother me either way.

When you mention loud, is it while moving or at neutral. The neutral noise is normally caused by some tension with the suspension unloaded while wheels are off the ground. It's normal for the servos to hunt for the center point. My hitec's normally do that. I have a savox in my touring car and I never noticed any other noise.

very nice setup, but its going to be waaaay to fast!! id consider a 1700 or 1900.

The few I've heard are noisy during operation. And to me that makes a difference because I do a lot of desktop tweaking. And my ears can't handle it.

I have a 2200 and it's very fast on 4S for a track.

yeah i ran a 2200 castle set up last year and it was insanely too fast. i was running on a pretty big outdoor track and i couldnt put all the power to the ground. i ended up setting my throttle end point at 90% and it was much more controllable. i still think a 1900 would be borderline too fast. 1700 for life!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd like to try more motors.

1700 you can go sensored ESC