couldnt have said it any better myself

Since these appear to be so hard to get right now, is it really worth the difference between the 8Be and the 8e? Looks like about a $100 diff for threaded shocks, shock towers and ???? I appreciate any input. Thanks

Yes definaately. That $100 difference pays for itself big time. I've got the FT RC8 and an RC8B and the B is so much better in terms of everything from durability, to the bigger bore shocks, to the aluminum updated geometry towers, the toe plates no longer wear out.

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Should be out here soon, I've been doing some work on it while bill is in the hospital, should be ready to shoot some out sometime the beginning of next month. I have not heard from associated about the arms and towers yet, but I assume we will see them soon.

I'm looking forward to this new chassis - the only thing that annoys me about the B(e) is the Associated haven't bothered to commision a new "electric" chassis.

There are a few associated drivers here in so Cal that are working on different battery and electronics layouts. Some pretty innovative designs. some of which are utilizing carbon chassis and others using radically redrilled stock chassis. One car is less than six pounds and drives like a b44.

For those of you who are talking about running the bce new "E" chassis, what are your opinions on the tekno v4 kit? I'm leaning the tekno route because I need the new chassis the layout looks awesome. I really want mechanical brakes and would like to try the nitro style clutch as I think it suites my driving style better coming from nitro back ground. I'm just curious for those of you turning your heads away from the tekno V4 towards the traditional converted layout why? You get so much more for your money it seems. Just curious because the only place people discuss tekno is under that page and of course most of it is praise.

Do you guys think that the rc8e will ever go down in price?

have a question i just rebuilt my 3 diffs and 2 f/r have mobement in the shafts after i assembled them like when your holding the diff sideways you can move the input shafts (rotate) them. ive never had this happen till now! do i need new input shafts or new casings? its the pieces where the bearings are car has all new bearings and everything is new except the planatary gears and the 2 metal pieces that go ober the o ring before you put the pin in to secure the sun gear im prepping the car for a huge race and need this corrected asap any help would be greatly appreciate

thanks in advance!!

Your input shaft o-rings are worn out

i have just replaced them with all new gaskets and orings


thank you i appreciate the response

Hi,
Looking at getting a Tekin 1/8 motor so what size is the best T8 1900Kv, 2050Kv, 2250Kv. The track I run on is about a small to mid size track.

1900kv geared 46/18 for a small to medium course and 46/20 for a large 1/8 scale. The 1900 is a great all-around motor.