I'm using the grid mount as well. The Elite mount has been out of stock, and there was no indication if he planned to make more anytime soon.

Gregg, I do tend to go a bit overboard. It's a bad habit of mine. Plus, my motto is overkill is juuuuuust right.

The plan is to take it out for a first drive this weekend.

I hear you on the Cali sales tax! I just moved out here and had to stop buying from AMain as well. I love their prices and shipping, but simply cant aford to tack an extra 30.00+ on an order already over 200. I had to switch to Tower, they do just as good for shipping and their prices are only as dollar or two higher on avg. By the time it is all over Tower turns out to be a few bucks cheaper, really a shame IMO.

+1 on the Elite RC mount, that said the stock one does work just fine if you plan on using just one pinion, setting the mesh and forgetting about it.

After experimenting with different pinions on different tracks, the Elite is a dream to work with!

Your right there are a million batteries to choose from. I also bought a couple 4S hardcase jobs from hobby king and they work great as well and I think I paid 80.00 for two!

I like the overkill is just right motto!

Wolf if your using tower, you need to be a member of the Super Saver Club. I just made 2 separate orders for my Buggy and my MMM2200 I saved $60 on each order for a total savings of $120. Now tell me where you can beat that anywhere? When you become a club member you get the codes after about a month of signing up, but for me as soon as I joined, they show you as a member and I got the newest codes right here off rctech. PLUS! you always get free shipping with Super Saver of $150 or more.

Super Saver link, then the link to the tower codes.

http://www.towerhobbies.com/ssc.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...members-7.html

+1 billion! I bought my radio, RC8Be, and MMM through Tower, on separate orders. Since I'm part of the club, free shipping (as Gregg noted), plus up to $60 off each order, so I've saved a big chunk of money. This doesn't even count the MERV and a ton of other parts I've bought from there (hence my asking what you guys thought of Reedy batteries ) before. Although I did notice that the last email I received from them only went up to $50 off.

I do try to support my local hobby shop, but there really isn't one local to me. The closest "good" one is 45 min to 1 hour away. I'll buy parts from the local place close to me, but if I have a large parts order, it's usually Tower or A Main that gets my order. I've ordered quite a bit from A Main as well, and I've always been pretty happy with both Tower and A Main.

I would order my charger and lipos from them if they had something decent. I dont think you can go wrong with the Reedy hard pack. It fits the tray it's roar approved and it's 5000mah 4S. Would be nice if it wasn't $229 though. I know ampdraw has them for $170, which is a really good deal.

Yeah, not a good selection of high end chargers at Tower for sure. That's why I'm planning to order from A Main, but I know that's not an option for you.

Thanks for the heads up on the Reedy. I didn't realize other places had them for so much cheaper. Although after reading the earlier replies, I might have to give Thunder Power a try, if I start racing, that is.

well after 24 hours my center diff leaking again.it must be that im tightening the plastic spur down to much.my buggy is a conversion so its not new .ive rebuilt my diff 100 times over and never had an issue with anything.i slackend my screws a bit on c diff.anybody have any ideas why .i sanded it the other day and installed it again and seemed fine,but its leaking again.and man the stock motor mount really is a pain.

you just have to make sure you sand enough, and make sure you do it on a flat surface. The stock motor mount is fine, you just need to figure out around it

Where's your center diff leaking from? Is it an o-ring problem or a seal between diff case and spur problem? I usually have diffs leak because of the o-rings. Either use Kyosho o-rings or the updated Associated o-rings (which I hear are clear as opposed to black, but I haven't been able to find any yet).

The stock motor mount is good as long as you have good hardware (good washers and bolts). Flimsy washers will bend and cause your motor to shift. Also, I set gear mesh with the entire motor mount and center diff assembly uninstalled so it's easier to get to all the screws.

To charge my Hyperion 4s, 35c packs, I use the Hyperion Duo 3 charger. Works flawless.

I do not recomend the Elite mount. It was a waste of $80. The m Blox screws were not tapped long enough for the screw that was supplied. I had to change the screws and they stripped. I used the second hole on the block and it stipped easy as well. All this in one month and I am not a novice driver. I contacted Elite and he said to just buy another block. I am not spending another $40 for a block that will strip out. I put the stock motor mount back on and not one problem. I agree with Shane (SEF) to set gear mesh with the whole mount and center diff, much better. My car is wisper quiet.

I run the Tekin Rx8 with the 1700kv motor on an inside clay track, West Coast RC Raceway.

Iam looking at these two chargers thunder power tp610 or protek icharger 106
What one would you guys go with
Thanks

I had the same exact problem with my elite motor mount the M blox is made of a lot softer aluminum.it is a made to fail, thats the way they get people to keep buying from them. if it was perfect they wouldnt make as much money my solution to the problem was to tap the holes for 4mm screws and i havent had a problem since.

I agree Devon.

I've been running the team grid motor mount and have had excellent luck with it...not 1 problem so far and it's a lot cheaper than the elite mount...that adds to the happiness

Can someone please provide some links to the different motor mounts here so i know what you are talking about?