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Old 01-02-2011 | 10:50 PM
  #841  
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Originally Posted by hitman72
Where do u get these packs from blue lipo
http://www.hobbypartz.com/bluelipo.html
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Old 01-02-2011 | 11:31 PM
  #842  
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greg, i fixed the center diff.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 03:28 AM
  #843  
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For you guys with the leaking diffs, are you sanding the face of the diff half at all?

A bit of a shameless plug, but check out about halfway through this clip and you'll see what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdJYwEDxQ7k if you smooth out the face of the diff case a bit, it tends to help keep it from leaking.

Brandon runs for AE and I gave him a hand shooting a few clips on some common tips and tricks for the RC8B, the vast majority of them apply to the E as well, so you may find some usefull stuff in there.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 06:00 AM
  #844  
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Originally Posted by culture6
greg, i fixed the center diff.
Cool, you fixed it from sanding it then?

Originally Posted by Jason_R
For you guys with the leaking diffs, are you sanding the face of the diff half at all?

A bit of a shameless plug, but check out about halfway through this clip and you'll see what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdJYwEDxQ7k if you smooth out the face of the diff case a bit, it tends to help keep it from leaking.

Brandon runs for AE and I gave him a hand shooting a few clips on some common tips and tricks for the RC8B, the vast majority of them apply to the E as well, so you may find some usefull stuff in there.
And Jason, thanks for the video. Good advice as I havent built a car in about 5 years and never knew any of that. I also favorited the other 3 as well. I hope to see some 8Be specific videos sometime. Like setting up and running motors and batteries. And how to balance the car with large packs and also picking motor sizes and gearing. Excellent information thank you.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 06:42 AM
  #845  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Matt, did you paint that yourself? Colors are cool! And you're already ready for a new kit? Lol. Not doing it for you huh?
The shell was painted by Jim from Winning Edge Designs. I usually replace all of the bearings on a car or just buy a new kit after I've raced the car 20+ times. My FT RC8e > RC8Be already has 25+ races under its belt. I'm having more fun racing in this class than I've ever had before racing in other electric classes. The RC8Be has proven to be a solid car for me. Just wish eighth scale buggies weren't so expensive to maintain...
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Old 01-03-2011 | 08:09 AM
  #846  
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for those of you running the 8 x 1.3 pistons, what oil do you suggest? 40f/35r? anything under 35 seems to be extremely soft on the bench -although real track conditions will exhibit a different "set" fluid dynamics within the shock on the track vs on the bench -its hard to tell.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 08:40 AM
  #847  
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Originally Posted by jetbill007
for those of you running the 8 x 1.3 pistons, what oil do you suggest? 40f/35r? anything under 35 seems to be extremely soft on the bench -although real track conditions will exhibit a different "set" fluid dynamics within the shock on the track vs on the bench -its hard to tell.
I would think that's about right. I'm running either 30 or 25 (depending) with 10x1.1s so I'd likely bump to 35 as a start on the 1.3s
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Old 01-03-2011 | 08:42 AM
  #848  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
And Jason, thanks for the video. Good advice as I havent built a car in about 5 years and never knew any of that. I also favorited the other 3 as well. I hope to see some 8Be specific videos sometime. Like setting up and running motors and batteries. And how to balance the car with large packs and also picking motor sizes and gearing. Excellent information thank you.
You're quite welcome, I'll pass the feedback along to Brandon as well. There are a couple more clips I need to finish the editing on that talk through ackerman and a couple of other good topics as well.

I'll see what he thinks about something specific to the Be and see what we can come up with.

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Old 01-03-2011 | 02:21 PM
  #849  
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yes, I sanded all of them from the beginning. But I noticed the center probably wasn't sanded enough, so I took it apart last night and re did it and it worked.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 04:14 PM
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Anyone have to use an extender to route the esc wire to the receiver box as shown in the instruction manual. We are using a tekin rx8 or is their another wiring route?
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Old 01-03-2011 | 04:23 PM
  #851  
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Originally Posted by jetbill007
for those of you running the 8 x 1.3 pistons, what oil do you suggest? 40f/35r? anything under 35 seems to be extremely soft on the bench -although real track conditions will exhibit a different "set" fluid dynamics within the shock on the track vs on the bench -its hard to tell.
I'm running the 8x1.3 pistons right now at West Coast r/c in southern California...its a hard packed indoor clay track with tons of traction. I'm using 45wt front and rear...sometimes I go to 40wt in the rear for a little more traction.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 04:47 PM
  #852  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Anyone have to use an extender to route the esc wire to the receiver box as shown in the instruction manual. We are using a tekin rx8 or is their another wiring route?
Funny you ask about this now as i have just done this earlier today But i am using a Mamba Monster-ESC, if i routed the wire under the batterytray and over the "bridge" as described in the manual it got too short, so i routed it under the tray and through the front chassi brace (through because it is aluminium, but i guess you can go under if you've got the plastic one), and into the radiobox. I gained a good 2-2,5 inches by doing this. My camera is getting some milliamperes now but i will take some pics tomorrow of the wiring when it is fully charged.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 04:48 PM
  #853  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Anyone have to use an extender to route the esc wire to the receiver box as shown in the instruction manual. We are using a tekin rx8 or is their another wiring route?
There is an alternative wiring route that i like to use. If you look at the underside of the battery tray there is a slot between the front two straps. You can run you lead from there and under the front, center diff outdrive, then to the receiver box. I like to use a piece of shrink tubing to run the wires through and then glue or tape the tubing to the chassis so you dont have to worry about wires rubbing the outdrive or drive shaft. With the spx8, this eliminated the need for an extension. Im sure it would do the same for the rx8.

As for the 8x1.3 pistons, check teamassociated.com for the setups. I believe Maifields latest setups utilize those pistons. You shouldnt be much more than 5wt heavier than 10x1.1.
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Old 01-03-2011 | 05:09 PM
  #854  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Cool, you fixed it from sanding it then?

And Jason, thanks for the video. Good advice as I havent built a car in about 5 years and never knew any of that. I also favorited the other 3 as well. I hope to see some 8Be specific videos sometime. Like setting up and running motors and batteries. And how to balance the car with large packs and also picking motor sizes and gearing. Excellent information thank you.
+1 Jason. Those vids were very informative. I'm ordering a 4mm reamer shortly, and I'm planning to try sanding the diff cup tonight or tomorrow.

A little OT, but my kiddo was having a blast driving the 1/16 Revo tonight. We made a little ramp and he had a blast jumping it a bit. He surprised me by installing the wheels, battery, and body all by himself. I guess he's been paying attention!
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Old 01-03-2011 | 05:48 PM
  #855  
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Originally Posted by Lars in Norway
Funny you ask about this now as i have just done this earlier today But i am using a Mamba Monster-ESC, if i routed the wire under the batterytray and over the "bridge" as described in the manual it got too short, so i routed it under the tray and through the front chassi brace (through because it is aluminium, but i guess you can go under if you've got the plastic one), and into the radiobox. I gained a good 2-2,5 inches by doing this. My camera is getting some milliamperes now but i will take some pics tomorrow of the wiring when it is fully charged.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
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