I thought the "39" was the top end/milage pipe. I think the "35" has more grunt to pull a truggy but I do know Sylvain on here runs the "39" and loves it in truggy so maybe I'm wrong....

I run a 2035 in my RC8T FT, but our Track has alot of turns and jumps after them.

i was wondering if the 2039 took away to much bottom.

I run my Reedy 121vr with a 2039 in my RC8T. The bottom out very acceptable with the 2039 even in a RC8T

Can anyone assist me? I am about change front & rear bearings in my Reedy, but am unsure of how to go about it - can any one steer me in the correct direction, I also brought a Ofna bearing puller kit.

Any help?

Reedy 121 VR-ST is online now!!
http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...n_Nitro_Engine

Strip the motor down to just the Block with the bearings in it. Heat it up to about 225F and then pull the bearings. I use this method.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Whpws...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3xIW...eature=related

thanks

Not a problem

So in theory, one could drop the crankshaft and P/S/R in the standard 121VR and get a bit more power? Didn't see anything about case mods in the release, just curious.

I was wondering the same thing

Hi Guys,

I just replaced the bearings in my Reedy engine- which went perfect, I have just run a couple of tanks through but when i start to give it full throttle it dies. How do I retify this?

Thanks.

Start with the glow plug, just because the engine runs it does not mean the plug is good. If that doesn't work go back to rich needles and start over.

Thanks mate - I'll give it a try....

This is correct. The case is dimensionally the same. However we have upgraded the case material/production process as a running change to the VR and as standard on the VR-ST.