yup put the pinion and center shaft coupler on before assembling the rest of the diff case.

i went to grind down the stock plastic spindles and measured them, They were already at 11.31 mm stock. So i also noticed the wheel already rubs on the inside and out so one would not gain much more by gringind the stock spindle down for the wheel would rub on the arm even more.

IMO grinding the stock plastic's is not needed.

why do you think they went to alum spindles with stock plastic caster blocks? it gave you more throw, your doing the same here but without the weight of the alum

i know this is probably a stupid question but i just wnt to see if you guys know before i have to tear my truck down to find out!.....

are the holes for the hinge pins thicker in diameter on the a-arms for the 2.0 than the 1.0?....same with the holes for the rear hub and the front carriers...are they bigger in diameter?...

the rear hubs on the 2.0 use a bigger hinge pin,
inners are the same

dang it!....

you are 100% positive?....dang it now i need those too!

yes you need the rear hubs and pins 100%

yeah i kinda figured that much! ...i wonder how the 1.0 hubs and pins will work?....i guess i will find out

they wont,there will be to much play and you will end up breaking an arm,hobbytown has them in stock

i know iknow....im just being stubborn!...lol....screw hobbytown though lol....i can maybe get them fronted by DYNAMIC OR AIRLAND!

hey whatever gets you on the track bro,just trying to help out

well i heard that the mc2 rear outer hub pins are good but from what i heard you have to drill a big hole for them to fit.

i use, the the 2.0 hubs and 2.0 outer pins but i did dremel off the 4 hole on the hub to make it just 3 holes so i can use the same camber link/hole on the hole.

thanks bud i appreciate it!...are you gonna be @ Arc this weekend?...im gonna try and support hemet saturday for their nitro race.....you should cruise out!.....also are you gonna mob out to the Kyosho fall classic @ rev on the 20th?