8T 2.0
#9888
try running a lower front ride height and 3-B on the front camber links
also make sure your front wheels are not locking when you break
i use that and get heaps more off power steering
if you use the 3-B camber link just check that the ball end doesnt rub on the top of the carriers near the king pin. sometimes you have to file a little bit off the inside edge of the carriers
also make sure your front wheels are not locking when you break
i use that and get heaps more off power steering
if you use the 3-B camber link just check that the ball end doesnt rub on the top of the carriers near the king pin. sometimes you have to file a little bit off the inside edge of the carriers
#9889
try running a lower front ride height and 3-B on the front camber links
also make sure your front wheels are not locking when you break
i use that and get heaps more off power steering
if you use the 3-B camber link just check that the ball end doesnt rub on the top of the carriers near the king pin. sometimes you have to file a little bit off the inside edge of the carriers
also make sure your front wheels are not locking when you break
i use that and get heaps more off power steering
if you use the 3-B camber link just check that the ball end doesnt rub on the top of the carriers near the king pin. sometimes you have to file a little bit off the inside edge of the carriers
#9892
#9893
#9894
Increase rear brake bias/decrease front brake
Increase negative camber in the rear.
Increase front toe (it will let you come in faster, brake a touch later and "flip" the truck around the corner).
Different tires front/rear (AKA Cityblock front, Ibeam rear).
Trim rear wing lip.
There's a lot more you can do as well; but the tires and rear brake bias are two major points that the truck will react to.
Increase negative camber in the rear.
Increase front toe (it will let you come in faster, brake a touch later and "flip" the truck around the corner).
Different tires front/rear (AKA Cityblock front, Ibeam rear).
Trim rear wing lip.
There's a lot more you can do as well; but the tires and rear brake bias are two major points that the truck will react to.
#9896
#9897
I replace my tank when it breaks. I change my fuel line when I notice it leaking out of the hose inlet. I've yet to replace the spring or rebuild a tank. If I don't have to throw $20 down the drain I avoid that upkeep cost.
#9899
I replace mine quite often. Usually every month or so depending on how much I'm running. In other words that's during the summer. Winter time I don't run much nitro. I usually go through a couple during the summer. Not sure that's necessary, but one of my biggest pet peeves is air leaks. I don't like the idea of just changing the lid. Tanks are cheap enough to replace every couple months.

#9900
question guys, will the brake rotors from a 1.0 work on a 2.0, I'm wanna get the xtreme racing carbon fiber discs http://www.xtremercracing.com/Store_...ue&SnipID=6135 but they only show what looks like they are for the 1.0 . I have a set of these on my Cen Matrix R2 they work really great,no fade whatsoever. does the smaller rotor take a different size brake pad? I have the "improved" rotors from Losi but IMO they aren't all that good. I was also looking at the rotors from Avid, does anybody have any experience with those? thanks for any info.




