you dont need a special camber link to run the v2 tower, just if you run the in " A" position on the hub, and you can just cut two threads off each end of the camber link, thats what i did

Y'all thing this one will work?






http://compare.ebay.com/like/2303651...=263602_304662

4mm reamer is what you want, Don't go over sized, that leads to wobbly arms which isn't what you want.

double check the rear outers too, might want a 3.5 reamer as well.

great thanks for the imput guys. And the outers are nice and free. I installed the hub with the arms off the truck to check em and the were smooth. I will pick a 3.5 up to just in case i might need it down the road.

You want 5x107mm or 5x105mm turnbuckles. Or you can cut your stock ones down a bit on either side.

I just want to make sure I am doing the rear diff shiming corectly. You shim it tight so it's a little notchy and it wears in? There's about 1-2 gallons on this r/p. It makes some noise and I am just trying to quiet it up but I don't want to blow it up.

i was told by a losi team driver, you want it TIGHT! but not so it binds and feels notchy. noise is ok, it will wear in, but once its got some sloppy backlash, its only going to beat the gears and start wearing drastically.

So after it wears in don't make it tight? If I do 2 shims on each side it spins nicely if I do 3 and 1 it spins but not freely.

if 3 feels notchy.. and 2 is free.. if you hold the pinion cup, and hold the outdrives, can you feel a backlash space in the pinion cup as you wiggle it back and forth?

not in and out.. your not trying to gauge the space between the pinion cup and the bearing and the pinion gear. it should be tight already. your trying to feel the space between the pinion gear, and the ring gear on the diff.

3 on one side is noisy. but turns without binding, your good. if you feel high spots, or to a point where it takes noticable effort to turn past that rough spot, go back to 2 and 2. when i was 2 and 2, you could see atleast 1hour, maybe 2 in the backlash. thats looose. i went 3/1 shims, and it was noisy again, but 0 backlash. eventually i replaced the r/p but got away for another gallon.

You want it tight Frankie! Like tight as possible while still rotating freely. A little bit notchy and noisy is fine. NO BACKLASH!!

Which shims are you using? There's 2 different thicknesses in the losi shims. I don't know how many are in mine, but you want it tight. It will wear in and be smooth.

You know I just did a friends today, he has about 2 gallons on it and has already shimmed it once before. There was only 1 shim left on the right side. I think it was a thick one. I moved the last thick one over to the left and put a thin one on the right.

The mesh was still loose (small amount of backlash) So I now have all shims to the left and none on the right. The mesh is a little tight (notchy) but doesn't feel to tight. Does this sound right? we have a 4 hour endurance race on sunday and need this thing good to go.

The weird part is my sons rtr has 4 gallons on it and I have only shimmed it twice in that time (there is 2 shims on both sides I think).

the way you drive has alot to do with how that r/p is going to wear.

if you come down from jumps on the gas, and essecially if you land on your back tires 1st on the gas, its going to put a ton of stress on that rear r/p causing severe wear compared to your boy, that prolly drives somewhat "normal".

i would think, as easy as possible, landing, and then planted all 4, accelerate.. would be easier on eveyrthing, r/p, outdrives, and dog bones. rev'ing the piss out of the truck, and letting it land with power to the wheels, its going to wear on every part of the drivetrain. but thats how you get around the track fast.. so its a give and take.

that 4 hour endurance race.. is it worth a DNF? you might want to consider changing that r/p if your shimmed all the way to one side.

I got it idk what thickness I am using I didn't know there were 2 different. But I ended up with 3 inthe left and 2 inthe right. It's a very tight fit but BCE and smooth and no backlash.

Thanks for the help.

You want as little backlash as possible. You can also add shims. The stock amount won't necessarily be enough to get it shimmed right. Every gear set is different, and gearboxes can also stretch out a bit over time which means more shims to get the right mesh.

While I agree that landing on the gas does put more stress on your drive train, sometimes it is the fast line. With a properly shimmed and setup diff this should be no problem. 4 hour endurance race would benefit from a more conservative approach though.

just to show you how fast a baddly shimmed rear diff can go bad. my old 2.0 was on the original r+p. My brand new 8t 2.0 got brought out at Byrons off road challenge about 2 weeks ago. I shimmed it before the event, must of been a tad to loose. By my second qualifer(had 2 tanks of practice and 1 7 min qual) my right rear outdrive got damaged because my rear diff just moved a tick back and fourth which caused my dog bone to pop out. not even 1/4 gallon of fuel thru it and bad mesh already caused issues.