1LikesB44.1 Thread
10-12-2010 | 05:12 PM
#61
The best part is the chassis with no holes in it. I reckon after 4 months of racing I will have saved enough by not replacing the JC chassis tape which always got holes punched through the battery slots...
And the motors will not get marked or dented now with no cut out.
refinement is the mark of a winning car.
10-12-2010 | 05:16 PM
#62
new shocks as well and a new thicker front tower.
The best part is the chassis with no holes in it. I reckon after 4 months of racing I will have saved enough by not replacing the JC chassis tape which always got holes punched through the battery slots...
And the motors will not get marked or dented now with no cut out.
refinement is the mark of a winning car.
The best part is the chassis with no holes in it. I reckon after 4 months of racing I will have saved enough by not replacing the JC chassis tape which always got holes punched through the battery slots...
And the motors will not get marked or dented now with no cut out.
refinement is the mark of a winning car.
10-12-2010 | 05:38 PM
#63
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,010
Yeah I run the chassis protector so I didnt have that problem either, and yeah I like the idea of just updating, but At the same time I almost wish it were different bc I hate how kyosho updates kits so frequently. rb5 has been around for how long? how about a new model. I go back and forth on this haha I wish they still had t3 parts lol
10-12-2010 | 09:21 PM
#66
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,287
From: Sweden/Stockholm
The transmission ratio is still 2.5, not 2.6. The 2.6 is a typo. The B44.1 still uses the same diff gears, 3914.
As for the wheelbase, it is shorter because the kit setup has the hubs in the forward position. The max wheelbase would be 280mm, the same as the B44.
The length of the B44.1 vs. the B44 is the same. The reason the measurement is 7mm off is the B44.1 was measured from the very tip of the front to the back of the wing.
The newer chassis is the same length as the older one as well as the same width. The servo has been moved more towards the center line as well as there are no more cutouts for motor and batteries.
Hope this clarifies everything.
As for the wheelbase, it is shorter because the kit setup has the hubs in the forward position. The max wheelbase would be 280mm, the same as the B44.
The length of the B44.1 vs. the B44 is the same. The reason the measurement is 7mm off is the B44.1 was measured from the very tip of the front to the back of the wing.
The newer chassis is the same length as the older one as well as the same width. The servo has been moved more towards the center line as well as there are no more cutouts for motor and batteries.
Hope this clarifies everything.
/Thomas
10-13-2010 | 08:33 AM
#71
New B44 Chassis- ~$60
Front V2 Shocks 43
Rear V2 Shocks 43
V2 Slipper setup ~13-15
Front Top Deck 21
FT Alum Hubs 31
Front Tower 18
Punisher body ~ 18
Cam motor Mount 43
Seems like thats 290 dollars in upgrades right there, so for 50-70 bucks and get a new kit, I really dont see what everyones issue is, seems like a legit .1 car to me. They are not calling this the B45 or anything people, the above doesnt include the carbon lipo brace or carbon battery straps either, so the difference between this kit and the original is near 350 alone and that doesnt even include 80% of the car!
Front V2 Shocks 43
Rear V2 Shocks 43
V2 Slipper setup ~13-15
Front Top Deck 21
FT Alum Hubs 31
Front Tower 18
Punisher body ~ 18
Cam motor Mount 43
Seems like thats 290 dollars in upgrades right there, so for 50-70 bucks and get a new kit, I really dont see what everyones issue is, seems like a legit .1 car to me. They are not calling this the B45 or anything people, the above doesnt include the carbon lipo brace or carbon battery straps either, so the difference between this kit and the original is near 350 alone and that doesnt even include 80% of the car!
10-13-2010 | 08:54 AM
#72
Yea, I had posted my B44 for sale but I think I will keep it and just upgrade a few parts from the B44.1 onto it.
10-13-2010 | 10:53 AM
#73
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,287
From: Sweden/Stockholm
Hmm, wounder how much flex they reduced with zero Nimh slots,motor hole on this chassi? or is it the same?, time will tell?
Only need in upgrade if you ask me, is Shocks, rest is bling, but for a easy adjustment, i can reach for the motormount
I would like diff topdecks...that is a lot more interesting, when will they give us some diff toppdecks for a lot more flex tune
Only need in upgrade if you ask me, is Shocks, rest is bling, but for a easy adjustment, i can reach for the motormount
I would like diff topdecks...that is a lot more interesting, when will they give us some diff toppdecks for a lot more flex tune
10-13-2010 | 11:24 AM
#74
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,490
I have a chassis without battery slots and the difference is not really noticable. Once you put on the lipo tray and the aluminum center brace, the chassis is pretty stiff.
If you need more flex in your chassis, back off the screws in your transmission cases and other plastic parts on the chassis on the top and the bottom plates a 1/4 turn from fully tight, back off the center brace screws 1/8th from fully tight, you'lll need to use locktight on them and let it cure overnight before driving the car.
If you need more flex in your chassis, back off the screws in your transmission cases and other plastic parts on the chassis on the top and the bottom plates a 1/4 turn from fully tight, back off the center brace screws 1/8th from fully tight, you'lll need to use locktight on them and let it cure overnight before driving the car.
