+1....its stupid to argue against the head warmer!......once you use 1, you will have different thoughts

I see no logic sometime's from people bashing/saying they dont work. Dont think they think it through.. Fair enough if you cant afford one. But we spend a fortune on this hobby anyway. Something that is relatively cheap that saves engine wear long term.. is a added bonus.. specially if your paying £250+ for 1 motor... in general.. I want it to last as long as possible!

Well if you Knew anything about your engine you would know the pinch is gone after you break your engine in.It's called compression thats what you have after break in.Pinch is there so you can seat your piston and sleeve once you've done that you have compression.Heating your engine is important while breaking it in only.If you do it right your not slaming the piston into anything but air and fuel.Thats why you heat cycle the engine while breaking in so piston and sleeve are as one and have a good seal so you have good compression which make's power.(NOT PINCH)Thats a freebie the next one will cost you

Thats a freebie the next one will cost you

You Make no sense
If you have your own opinion start your own post.

Dude that was a joke.Does it make sense now.But the other stuff is fact.And if that doesn't make sense then your making some engine builder very rich.Must be the air in PA to thin

engines work best off of compression not pinch. if you cant get that threw your head then there is no help for you. this thread is about pre heating engines which is best no doubt. but a heat gun is the best way to do that not a cooling fin condom. saying someone makes no sence when they clearly have a grasp on how things work and telling them to post somewere ealse when they are on topic MAKES NO SENCE
and to say someone doesnt like it cuz they cant afford it is a cheap cop out

Blacksunshine.. Please Take your Keyboard and Throw it away..your posts are based on a lack of understanding of engines and the concept of uniform expansion of engine parts. Have fun running through engines.

Also Speaking of freebies. I laugh at oxymoronic names.

It doesnt really matter how you do it.. You just need complete engine heat saturation without creating extreme hot spots.

Your a idiot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!( Universal expansion of engine parts) Get your head out of your a** Newbie

My bad meant to put "Uniform"..

One thing i do understand is that your still an idiot.And that won't change no matter how long you stand in front of the mirror and tell yourself your not Let me guess you run traxxas stuff? .One thing's for sure is all my Novarossi's which is all i own run awesome.

My bad i didn't mean idiot i ment mis informed.What it come's down to is everybody's got there way and who really know's what works better and what doesn't.F it anyway it's all about racing and winning and having fun.Good luck to all you guy's with your racing.And maybe you'll feel the wrath of my Novarossi's someday on some track

So, which parts would be expanding at the same rates in your engine? The Brass sleeve? The aluminum block? The 4140 Crank? Aluminum piston? Brass conrod bushings?

All those metals expand at different rates and temps. As a matter of fact, the Brass sleeve expands first as it's thermal density is the highest. Next would be the aluminum bits, then the steel crank.

Explain to me why ONLY the Car guys preheat engines? Heli guys place MASSIVE demands on motors and they don't preheat. Giant scale guys with 1200 dollar motors don't preheat...Only Car guys.

Oh and Black Sunshine was White Zombie's second song on his first album.

So Wouldnt the Entire engine being saturated to about 200 degrees be beneficial Story? having the billet piston, the ABC sleeve and aluminum case,Steel bearing Races, expanded to running temp? Warming my engine make the motor very predictable upon start up.

Does Ringed Play anypart with not needing to warm some heli motors? I dont know.

I still love oxymorons and not a Zombie fan.

If you could saturate the entire engine without running it, yes. Too bad a heater will leave the head hot, the block warm, and the crank and conrod cold.
Heat dissipates from a larger concentration to a lessor one. Heat is also transmitted by convection, radiation or conduction. convection and radiation heat the engine with a "bulb" type or heat gun type heater. Conduction by a wrap type. This heat travels from the outside into the motor. Because the sleeve is in contact with the block, it starts to heat after the block. then piston and crank(through the bearings) and finally conrod.

I'm talking ANY Heli motor. I have NEVER seen an air guy preheat ANYTHING but a cup of Irish coffee.

Only car guys preheat engines. Air guys just start them and run them...

Like I do, have done for 20 years and still do. I have running engines from companies not even in business anymore. Very Early ABC engines. Like from 1981.


And to answer your question, any race team interested in instant raw power do NOT preheat engines...IE Any Top Fuel engine. Longer time at the line heating engine=less power is made from that engine. Old bracket racer trick. Stage late to make the other guy gain a few * in engine temp and produce a tiny bit less power.