4,7 sec for a lap
My guess is that you don't need boost with 4.0 on a track this small.
You may not have enough rpm's in the motor with 31 roll to make use of the dynamic timing ?

I think Boyd has one hanging on the wall...will look tomorrow night and will grab it for you if it is there.

Good luck in Vegasm and will see you when you get back.

My guess is with a 4.7 second lap anything over a 13.5 with boost is uneeded.

I would have to agree.... Unless you are driving a oval track you would be better with much less motor as the longest straight would have to be quite short with lap times like that. I have found that its hard to do much faster lap times than a 10.5 unless you have a very big straight, even with 1s.

Hy all.
Probably i have not explain correctly my problem.
The question is why, if you know, whit LRP SXX TC speck ESC i have lot of more punch than Nosram Pearl Version 2 ESC specified for 1:12... which is the correct set up of the ESC whit hot motors ? whit 1S LIPO we never use over 4.5 motors.........
Grazie
Roberto

so , this is another issue?

Not exactly.
I wrote in first post about the same thing but probably not so clearly like in second post (hope ).
Sorry for misunderstanding
Ciao
Roberto

Quick question: can I split this pack into 2 180mAh 1s packs? Thanks!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...20C-74V-180mAh

I've been looking at getting a 1/12 for something new. I'm most likely to go with the RC12R5.1 with HW 1S esc an a 10.5 to start with. I'm lost on what servo's to be looking at, can people point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
Michael.

futaba 9650 is popular

That's funny, it's 5am where I am at and I had this exact same question. Which Futaba servo should I get for my 1/12?

Thanks for the advice.

Futaba S9650 Mini Servo. Just cut the wings off and it is a perfect fit.
You will need a different servo save then comes with the 12r5.1 kit.
Kimbrough #114 is the one you need

Hello everyone,

I'm very interested in getting into 1/12th scale racing, on both carpet and asphalt. I have a lot of questions though, and need lots of help. I'm sure there have been people posting asking for help just as I am but...with nearly 2300 pages in this forum I'm not about about to go sifting.
Anyways let me first say that I've raced 1/10th scale nitro touring cars for about 5 years, and recently have taken a break for a couple years, so I do know some stuff. I just need help getting into 1/12th scale.
One of the first things I need major help on is tires. In nitro racing, there weren't color coded tire shores, just numbers. What do all the colors mean, and what is best for certain surfaces? Also, I obviously want to be competitive and start out with a good car. What cars seem to be the most successful lately? Are there any new models coming out soon that I should wait for? I don't want to start out with something that's getting replaced real soon with a new model. Also, I'd appreciate it if you could just throw around some opinions about motors/batteries/speed controls/etc. I guess this is all I'll post for now, and I'll ask more questions as they come to me. Your help with any of my questions would be greatly appreciated.

Tire color codes:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...th_foam_10.gif

I'd suggest starting with a car that is similar (or at least common) to what others at your club will be racing with. It will make it easier to get help or flesh out setup problems that you might run into. 12th scale can be finicky, sometimes something really small will make a big difference.

CRC GenXL and Associated 12R5 are pretty common and definitely competative. BMI with the old school front end is pretty straight forward for someone to help you with. Speedmerchant with the old front end is again straight forward. The newer front ends might be harder to help you with until people have them figured out a bit better.

Tekin RS speed control is common and pretty well sorted out (probably go with the RS / Tekin motor combo that is correct for the class that you'd be running, i.e. 17.5 or 13.5). I'm going with the new Novak Kinetic 1S and Ballistic combo but it isn't as well sorted out yet since the Kinetics are pretty new. The AE Black Diamond is interesting. It is really spendy and isn't computer programmable (has to be sent to the factory for firmware upgrades), but it's finite settings (have a handful of "profiles" for the various functions) might be, in a way, easier to setup and it is unquestionably fast. I'm not necessarily suggesting it, but it might be worth putting in your research queue.

Servo, Futaba 9650 or JR 3650 are the tops of my lists.

Thunderpower packs are well thought of 5000+MAh 50c (although I went with a budget pack from Protek 5000MAH 40c for less $ as I don't think I'll notice or need the 50c rate running 17.5). SMC and others make great packs too, probably won't go wrong if you just do a little research before buying. These are 1S LiPo hard case, but you probably already get that.

Depending on class, you'll want pinion / spurs capable of 60-100mm rollout. Plan to get a bunch of pinions, probably from about 40-60 tooth and a couple spurs 76,80,84 (car will probably come with 88). If you can do some research on your motor / class (ESC rules, sportsman or open) / track size, you can probably slim those down to maybe 2 spurs and a dozen pinions.

Hit up gearchart.com to make rollout charts. Tires will probably be cut and then worn down from about 46mm to 42mm. Consider a tire truer although your club or other members will likely let you use their's and they aren't cheap.

Receiver will be preferably something small but in the end depends on your radio.

Some people are using a voltage booster and some a receiver pack since 1S Lipo is 3.7v and that isn't really enough for stable receiver / servo operation. Take your pick there, I'm going with a small 220MAh 2S LiPo receiver pack from Protek.

Depending on car, front and center springs, tube lube (I'm using Shur Lube), shock oils (Losi or AE but stick to one brand) for tuning. Tire sauce (check what your track uses / allows). Diff lube, bearing oils, etc there (you probably have some of this, just thinking out loud). Camber gauge (RPM works fine and is cheap / simple), ride height gauge (I prefer non-stepped), front end alignment tools (I use Niftech, better than trying to eye it and setup stations for 12th scale aren't common). Other tools are common hex drivers, 3/16th socket type driver, pliers, etc. I have 4 mini digital scales for weight balancing / tweak setting and you can get those cheap off Ebay.

Tires will depend on class that you run, track surface, etc, easiest to make friends with your club members and ask what they run. Common to see something like Yellow rear / Lilac front Jacos and variations around that. Again, best to check with a local.

Hmm, did that cover most of it? The car you get will have setup suggestions which will get you started, so no point into going into that.

Biggest suggestion is to be as precise as you can on your setup, small things are big things in 12th scale.