Got my RC8BE Thursday, assembled it through Friday night, took it to the track Saturday and its awesome! Aside from either I read something wrong, or I just shouldn't have read the directions specifically, but it said that the Servo Saver should be 8mm long, which I couldn't even get it that short. When I got it as close as I could, it was pretty much locked. So I broke 2 servo horns at the track yetserday, then loosened it up...

You had me worried for a minute! lol I didn't recall anything about the length of the servo saver being any specific distance. So I looked and sure enough the build on page 3 shows the servo saver...but it's a GAP...not a LENGTH per say. I think you were measuring from the wrong spot and I can see in the directions exactly why you might do that. It APPEARS as though it's telling you to measure to the back of the servo saver retainer/nut. I think what I did was measure the gap between that retainer/nut and the bottom of the arms.

I have never had a problem with mine yet and I'm running the stock plastic servo horn. I've got a metal one in reserve, I can't remember if it came with the KIT or with my servo. But I'll switch to it if/when the plastic one breaks.

I still have some work and painting to do but this is where I am so far. This was my first rattle can paint job; I went with something simple for the first time.

Dont forget to take your window mask off

Yup, I ran out of paint and need to put another coat on, so when I finish the final coat I'll take off the mask. thanks

question, what paint do folks normally use as a final protection coat? Is there a paint made just for that purpose?

I usually just back mine with White...I use my buddy PanicRev's airbrush and Parma Paints (they are water-soluable so they clean up easy).

I always have used Gorilla Tape. You can also use Shoe Goo as previously mentioned.

Stephen

How do you use the gorilla tape? I normally will use clear packing tape on the sides and shoe goo all around the body holes.

Thanks Steve. The SNR chassis is working great on my RC8e. I just barely won yesterday's race using the new chassis. It was the fastest I've driven the buggy. Minimal signs of chassis wear. I've been able to take faster lines that I couldn't consistently make in the past. Maybe driving skills are getting better, maybe the chassis added to the consistency.

what diff setups have you guys tried besides 555 and whitch ones do you like the most?

AWESOME GLAD TO HEAR IT.

I'm getting my RC8Be this week. I searched to see what lubrication to use on the dogbones and joints, it seems like dry lubes are the best option. I was at Homedepot and saw the Graphite Extreme spray by Jigaloo. Is this good to use? Should I use the lithium grease in the dust boots in the rear or just stay with the graphite spray?

I tried 553, then switched to 555. 555 just made the car feel better, the rear wasn't as apt to come flying around on me.

I am running 5-7-5 and it really seems to be working. I was using 5 in the center diff and it would balloon the tires a little to much so I switched to 7 and it made the car drive better and not balloon the front tires.

553 feels great on indoor clay tracks. I had a little bit too much push for my driving style with 555, and 553 worked better. I would agree that 553 give a little too much steering on looser outdoor tracks and 555 feels more planted.