My losi packs have been awesome. They're not too pricey and they fit like a glove with the flat lid.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

These lipos are SMALL! You could even put them in the receiver section of your radio tray if you wanted more steering, but they are so light its hard to tell a difference.

Thanks Jammin...Thanks 8ight racer. The price is right on those ebays ones from hong kong but the 900mah scares me. Don't know how long they would last

I'd imagine they would last as long as would ever be needed for a main, but I have to agree with you, I just feel more comfortable with a bigger pack. The losi packs are 2000mah. I usually put 400-600mah into them after a 30 minute main. That's running a 7940/7950 combo and AMB PT unregulated through a spektrum receiver.

They will last a 45+ minute main. I'd rather spend $5 a battery with 1/2 the capacity than $50 a battery that performs the same but lasts 1/2 longer. For $50 I could get 10 ebay lipos which will far outweigh the runtime of 1 Losi pack. Just run one for practice, one for the qualifiers, and one for the main.

Ya steve who knows how long they will last. I use the losi lipos and they work well.

Ive successfully ran a 45 min main with my 900's to put back in 650mah....I just recently raced a 30min in truggy and put back in 520mah.


IMO 900's are More then enough and the price is justified.


8ight-racer.....they are small but Not small enough to mount in the Rx box.

I had really bad luck with the Losi Lipo's when they just came out, to the point I ditched them and went back to NIMH, I heard the circuit board problem was at fault, but that steered my away from lipo for a long time, now I'm running a Dynamite pack and can't be happier!!!!!

yea but you run a, electric truggy and i run a nitro truggy so it will handle diffrent with a 2.0 t chassis .

so i have to get a 2.0 t body, and a rear center 2.0 drive shaft and the 2.0 droop screws and the 2.0 rear body mounts. and to get my steering back i have to increase the front droop .

like said i have to get a new chassis.

You'll also need 2.0 shock towers and front & rear body mounts to mount the body correctly.

In other words... Sell the 1.0 and buy a 2.0.

oh il just get the 1.0 t flex chassis than.

Or sell the 1.0 and buy a 2.0. Dude you're just dumping $$$ into an outdated truck. There's no use.

yea i see what you are saying, but the 1.0 t chassis isnt that much money really. i plan on getting a, new truck next season i dont want to start all over on a new truck when the season isnt that much longer.

Also the a arms, front and rear shocks, shock towers, etc. If you chassis is worn to what you say it is the entire truck is probably worn too, from replacing the outdrives and cvds all around, the diff cups wearing notches, o rings needing to be replaced, clutch springs/shoes need to be replaced, the plastics starting to wear and maybe even warp, for the price it will be to get it in good condition you will save money by just getting the 2.0T. Now we told you the same thing when the $150 rebate was out, but you ignored us so looks like your gonna have to pay $600 for one.