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Old 07-27-2010 | 01:23 PM
  #11251  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
If your tuning the motor (lsn or hsn) on the box, or before it's not fully warmed up, it probably will come in a little hot after a while (and I don't mean Megan Fox ) because it will have leaned out as the motors temp reaches it's normal running range (whatever that may be).
Motors are always a little blubbery when cold, then come right as they run up to temp. If you lean it when it is cold so it sounds right, it will be too lean after half a tank or so. What I am trying to say is - don't tune your motor until it is fully warmed up and the chassis has saturated with heat. But hey, if your system is working for you then that's cool (or hot perhaps ).
i temp it to tell me when its UP to heat. dont think you got what i ment.
and when it comes in i might. but i dont tune to temps. i may use as a guide line on my other cars(savage etc) but thats about it..
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Old 07-27-2010 | 02:31 PM
  #11252  
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Default Glo plugs....?

I ordered a O' Donnell Ultra Hot P3 (turbo) plug for my Go Engines 5 port, would this be a good plug to use?

I know some of you said earlier that the 97T plugs were good, but they are Medium plugs. My engine has been modded by RB Mods, and the RB sticker on the box says "use hot plugs".
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Old 07-27-2010 | 03:51 PM
  #11253  
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You can run an OD T77 plug, if you want a hotter plug.
A hot plug can mask an overly rich low speed needle
setting. I have seen this happen to alot of people, when
it comes to tuning there engines. They end up with the
idle air gap to large, a rich low speed needle setting, a
hi speed needle set too lean and an engine that has a
mid-range bogging with flame outs.
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Old 07-27-2010 | 03:55 PM
  #11254  
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Originally Posted by rageworks
You can run an OD T77 plug, if you want a hotter plug.
A hot plug can mask an overly rich low speed needle
setting. I have seen this happen to a lot of people, when
it comes to tuning their engines. They end up with the
idle air gap too large, a rich low speed needle setting, a
hi speed needle set too lean and an engine that has a
mid-range bogging with flame outs.
+1
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Old 07-27-2010 | 06:47 PM
  #11255  
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Originally Posted by inferno13
ok, tore down the GO carb, replaced o-rings and blew carb out, put back together and sealed carb, put in a 7.5 restricter, engine runs better than it ever has!!!! ran 3 tanks back to back and no issues, max temp was 237. GLAD THATS OVER WITH!!
now flog it like u stole it, & enjoy
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Old 07-27-2010 | 06:52 PM
  #11256  
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Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
now flog it like u stole it, & enjoy
you know it!!!!!
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Old 07-27-2010 | 08:35 PM
  #11257  
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I have the older silver head 5 port that needs a rod. i the rod the same with the new engines as the one I have?
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Old 07-27-2010 | 09:02 PM
  #11258  
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Originally Posted by inferno13
you know it!!!!!
Ha Glad itīs all working for you. Enjoy

Originally Posted by hobdog
I have the older silver head 5 port that needs a rod. i the rod the same with the new engines as the one I have?
There are a couple of schools of thought on this depending on how old the motor is and what you have been told by the factory.
Best course of action is to contact your nearest GO dealer or the US distributor and go on what they tell you.
I have my own rule of thumb on this, but you won't be getting the rod from me, so just be guided by the person you get the new rod off once they know what Generation your motor is.
Plain silver head with GO and 21 on it Gen 5 or earlier
Silver head with laurel wreath pattern, and GO Racing etc on top is Gen 5.5, which will definitly take the newer 21-0600 Pro rod from the GX motors.
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Old 07-27-2010 | 09:06 PM
  #11259  
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Originally Posted by 808gx7r
i temp it to tell me when its UP to heat. dont think you got what i ment.
and when it comes in i might. but i dont tune to temps. i may use as a guide line on my other cars(savage etc) but thats about it..
Itīs tuning the motor when itīs cold thatīs the major concern.
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Old 07-27-2010 | 11:10 PM
  #11260  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Itīs tuning the motor when itīs cold thatīs the major concern.
i dont tune when cold im not that silly..haha.
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Old 07-28-2010 | 01:47 AM
  #11261  
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Originally Posted by 808gx7r
set you lsn stock. hsn...

start her up on the box... let her warm for a few revs... now... richen it out just continously turning out untill it will almost die when at WOT. hold wot.
now turn in your needle continously untill it just screams on the box. chuck her on the ground and go for some high speed runs on the longest strait on a track or 30-60metres and adjust hsn in hours untill you get thin smoke with nice speed.

lsn. kill it.. let her cool to room temp... fire her bak up let her warm up for a 1min!! only 1 min... now without radio on use the linkage and slowly pull it out up to full throttle (dont death rev it(go to full for less then half a second)
it should be rather boggy between 0-50% throttle lean it at an hour at a time untill it cleanly goes up. then go 1/2 an hour more on lsn
Sorry mate, but that is not tuning it when itīs hot (at normal operating temps) - not how I read it anyway. Like I said before, if it works for you good - but that is not a method I would recommend to pass onto others.
Just my honest opinion.

Last edited by grizz1; 07-28-2010 at 02:18 AM.
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Old 07-28-2010 | 03:44 AM
  #11262  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Sorry mate, but that is not tuning it when itīs hot (at normal operating temps) - not how I read it anyway. Like I said before, if it works for you good - but that is not a method I would recommend to pass onto others.
Just my honest opinion.
BASIC TUNE this site is to give your opinions. i gave mine plus the way i do it before a morning heat as we dont have practice. so i do what i said she comes up to heat easy with a few revs on the box...

mybe your just not going fast enough for cooling

however i struggled with the long needle carbs... as you know.
the tuning is just a pain in the $%*^ but i throw in the short needle LSN. and the gx hums to life so much easyer...
mybe why alot are switching to the shorts.

im not saying the engines blow. i love the way it deals with its power.

i have a super hard time getting the gx up to temp with the long needle. taking like 2 tanks yet... once its there its good.

i do think i get a nicer bottom with the short needle too.
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Old 07-28-2010 | 04:00 AM
  #11263  
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Originally Posted by 808gx7r
BASIC TUNE this site is to give your opinions. i gave mine plus the way i do it before a morning heat as we dont have practice. so i do what i said she comes up to heat easy with a few revs on the box...

mybe your just not going fast enough for cooling

however i struggled with the long needle carbs... as you know.
the tuning is just a pain in the $%*^ but i throw in the short needle LSN. and the gx hums to life so much easyer...
mybe why alot are switching to the shorts.

im not saying the engines blow. i love the way it deals with its power.

i have a super hard time getting the gx up to temp with the long needle. taking like 2 tanks yet... once its there its good.

i do think i get a nicer bottom with the short needle too.
different horses for different courses
long needle for me, as it gives total control of the throttle, as opposed to the short were after 3/4 throttle it's all or nothing & as for tuning, once you get your head around the long needle, it's a breeze
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Old 07-28-2010 | 05:18 AM
  #11264  
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Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
different horses for different courses
long needle for me, as it gives total control of the throttle, as opposed to the short were after 3/4 throttle it's all or nothing & as for tuning, once you get your head around the long needle, it's a breeze
hmmm...... that makes sence!!! i can see where a long needle would give you alittle more control. good point MAGPIE, i have short needle, maybe give long a try.
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Old 07-28-2010 | 11:45 AM
  #11265  
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Love the long needle..also loving massives modded needles for the MG66.makes the tuning a little less sensitive and thus easier to get that perfect spot..
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