Ha ha - vlery clever

From memory when the stinger parted company on my 0801 and I cleaned the chrome off to look at repairing it, the metal had a pinky brass colour to it - unless that was just another coated layer under the chrome and not the actual pipe material, not sure.

Please let me know what's happen for that?

22Racer
You are right!
Now the 0801 pipe was all the same processes and components with GO,Alpha,PR.
Some guys talked about thinner was long.........time ago.

No......No.
It's made by 6063 Alum. Alloy for tube now.
Before was 6063 Alum. Alloy for board.
For board is softer than tube type to processed become any kinds of configuration.But easier to built.All issue your budget to pay for all molds.
Coating treatment have 2 kinds on pipe usually.one is hard anodize otherwise is chrome treatment.
If you need obtain excellent and durable chrome on muffler.They are all must be pre coating brass first.That is only way do that in my impression.

Thanks
Max

I wish I had some super cool story about breaking the longest jump record or something but it broke during the main. Wierd part is that it finished! My son did have some crashes as usual but nothing out of the ordinary. Unfortunetley this will turn me away from purchasing another Go pipe. Not trying to cause trouble or throw stones but it seems that there was a known problem with an 'older' version. I think that the button area should be stronger than the springs from the motor to the header and therefore even in a crash the springs would flex a bit but the button wouldn't break. I feel confident that there are other mfr's that would help with a problem like this and I will try something different. If the pipe was damaged in the least from a side impact or something i could chaulk it up to a crash, but this pipe looks like new.

I will say that I had one of the 0801 pipes when they first came out. It got dented up easily right away but I loved the performance. Every single person that wanted to buy that pipe from me I told them straight out that it is weak and dents fairly easy. I would rather lose a sale then have someone dissapointed down the road.

Rex

Is that a side impact mark on the cone in the centre of the picture ? or just some s**t on my screen ! mmm
i had the same damage on my 801, but it was hit from the top by another buggy after i screwed up a jump

just get the 2072 & you won't regret it

I got another question on the same 3 port engine that is making the ting sound at tdc. When at tdc it also seems as if theres a groove. It will lock into tdc and won't move unless i rotate the flywheel. I put the engine on the starter box and it will move just fine unless its stuck at tdc which happens once i take the engine off the starter box. What i don't understand is the internals of the engine look brand new. The outside looks slightly used but the inside is very clean with he exception of the ting noise that only happens when the head cooling heatsink is attached. I'm not sure what i should do from this point or if i should just try firing it up and pray that it doesn't get damaged in the process.

Could you let me know where are you?
Living in US?

Thanks
Max

Now i bet you will satisfied.
Waiting for your feedback.

Don't be put off the GO pipes or products because of this. The 0801 was notriously soft. The newer 2072 is rock solid with re-enforced stinger and is made of much stronger material - plus it arguably offers the best performance match for most of the GO engine range.
I am sure the US distributor will see you right over the pipe. To me it looks like it oviously had a defect and should be replaced IMO

I wouldn't like to start it with that noise going on. Check the bearing as suggested earlier. The other possibility is a stretched rod or badly worn big end bushing increasing the stroke.
The piston notching at TDC is normal. The sleeve is tapered so the piston is a real tight fit at TDC, thats where you get your compression from. If it just turned over with no resistance at the top, thatīs when you should be worried, as the motor would be very worn with greatly reduced compression.
By the way, don't leave the motor stuck at TDC. Always return it to BDC when it stops or when not in use.
If it only makes the noise with the head button on it must be touching at TDC, so something is amiss there.

I live in northern california.

The pipe is flawless except for this, as I said sorry for the blurry picture.I love my iphone but the camera leaves much to be desired.

Griz,
"Don't be put off the GO pipes or products because of this. The 0801 was notriously soft. The newer 2072 is rock solid with re-enforced stinger and is made of much stronger material - plus it arguably offers the best performance match for most of the GO engine range.
I am sure the US distributor will see you right over the pipe. To me it looks like it oviously had a defect and should be replaced IMO"

This is what i was saying and my decision is not based on spite or something, just the availibility of service. I posted here not tom bash but simply because Im don't know who is handling issues here in the U.S.

GO GX 7 Port long needle

Still got a problem with the engine having an erratic tic over and revving high when coming off wot.
I have changed the con rod, seals, bearings and sealed everything up as instructed,
I have stripped down and checked again for air leaks finding bubbles coming from the front bearing area between the bearing and con rod,
the engine tunes better now and is showing the speed expected from it,
The question is should there be an air leak from this area,
the other problem I have is the constant blowing of the T3 glow plugs, I blow 2 every race meeting, I run for 7 minutes and stop the engine, when trying to restart for the next heat i find the plug blown, can not see any damage on the coil. temp when it comes in is 190
am i doing something wrong? is there another plug that is better and I should try as its getting very expensive. running on Gen2 25%

Babygrand48 go to this page & send him a pm, ruune is the us distributer for GO products : http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/ruune.html

or go to his web site & contact him : http://www.go-engine-usa.com/index.php/contact.html phone no is at the bottom of the page
hope this helps

try an o'donnell 97t plug & try richening your high side needle small amounts at a time until he high revving settles after wot