good luck! I just sold one. They are few and far between and when you do find one expect to pay. If you go to the go-tec usa web site there is a list of dealers. TRy to get ahold of racer22 and there was one other gent on here but I forget his name.

I miss yours bigmatt
Yesterday, i was trying to contact my friend who bough my old GX-5R this spring, because i know that he was put it for sale to buy a Novarossi Toro Nero, but finaly, i've speak to him just before to go to the bed at 11:00 PM, and he finnaly sell and when i check here on the forum this morning (because i don't have computer at home, only at work), i see that yours was sold

dakamat you have a pm. answer asap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We went over this before, the rod bushing size never changed (as confirmed by the factory) it is perfectly fine to put a pro rod on an older motor. Yes the new coated crank lasts longer than the older non-coated but I would wait until the crank wears out before replacing it. (6-8 gallons)

I think the old rod was a 28-0600

Rex

ok guys... for the record. 21-0600 is shipping for all pro engines, including the .25R pro engine. This picture is a shot of my personal .25 that has the factory P/R/S in it. The crank is not coated like on the GX series, and the rod is the same as the GX engines. This is straight from the factory. Any increase in diameter between the coated and non-coated cranks is minuscule and would not have an effect on the rod wear. In fact, the Ti-Ni coating would have less wear due to the reduction in surface resistance.

@ Griz1 what i don't understand is that the instructions and parts list i got with it, is the same part numbers as the new gx motor ?? is it possible that it has the new updated parts?? i have not opened it yet to look

you can use the new parts in the previous gen engines.

I don't want to disagree but I have an old (unused nip) rod which was the spare for my old gen 4 7 port that i killed before I swopped the rod and there is no way in this world it is fitting my new coated GX or MG66 cranks..I've tried it and I'd need a hammer to get it to fit.slides smoothly onto the gen 4 crank I have (also unused) and the new pro rod fits the gen 4 crank with barely noticeable play.Seems like there was some kind of change even if the newer rods can fit the older cranks ,the older rods (well the one I have at least ) won't fit new coated cranks.

Yes - we covered all this rod stuff very thouroughly some time ago. The rod size changed late Gen 5, just before the Gen 5.5 came out with the slightly larger crank pin design as part of it's evolution. The very late model Gen 5 motors had the new un-coated 5.5 crank fitted leading into full Gen 5.5 motor production. Motors previous to this ie: early Gen 5, Gen 4 and earlier had the crank with the smaller pin and accordingly the older 21-0800 rod that Gizzmatron is talking about. As Gizz has proved, there are still a few older 21-0800 rods out there in the old sizings. Any 21-0800 rods made since late Gen 5 are now made the same size as the 21-0600, as you can no longer buy a Gen 5 or earlier crank. Believe what you want, and fit what you want in the older motors. Your motor, your call. I certainly don't want to go through that discussion all over again, so lets move on

Africa - some of the parts have been upgraded in the newer motors, but the part numbers remain the same, ie: sleeve, crankcase, back plate etc. Some like the rod and carb have been changed to reflect the newer generation parts. You will note on your parts list you have a Gen 4 21-0800 con rod (which as Gizz pointed out is the older sizing, which is no longer available).

Africa if you want to have some spares for your engine I'll happily send you my unused gen 4 crank and rod so long as you cover postage...No use to me.That would give you the life you want out of your engine if you don't want to sell it on...LMK

since we are on the subject of conrods

what is the secret for getting the rod off the crank in the new motors. I went to the track the other night and got caught in a down pour. Both of my GX race motors (had a club race gen 5 fitted) got completely flooded in my pit bag. Anyway I tried to get the rods off and it seems impossible. Both motors are about 1.5 gallons. I have never had a motor of any brand where the rod was still that tight on the crank after run in. Loving me some GX

I just wanted to share my experience from yesterdays club race. I put my go 5 prt in my mbx6t. This engine has been sitting as a back up and I really haven't run it much at all. My regular engine is getting some work done. I finally spent some time on tuning, because I put a nova carb on it, and have only ran it once since then, and never really got it running correctly. This is the old siver headed engine. This thing screams! I was even running a strange pipe choice on it (THS) which turned out to be pretty good, but to get more milage out of it I am thinking of going with a 086. I also have a 053 with a kinked nova header 41005 that I was wondering if it might give me even better milage. Is anyone, or I guess I should say, did anyone ever get a solid 10 min. pit in truggy with this engine? If so, what was your setup. With the THS pipe I was getting around 9 min. runtime on a large track. I just wanted to express how good the engine was. I loved how there was no weird powerband to it. It was a consistant, strong pull from top to bottom.

I think I am the only one that has made a tool to take off the conrod on a fairly new engine. (posted a pic a long time ago on here) If you have some runtime on it it should come off, otherwise it would be hard to do without damaging the engine.

Rex

Crude But Effective
After removing sleeve put few drops of oil on crank pin insert Tool under pin
wiggle do not pry it should come right off.

I bent an open-end Craftsman tune-up wrench to
make my GO con rod tool. It works great, no sharp
edges to scratch the crank pin or rod.