Well after reading the thread as Ron advice, actually I read the whole thing and I'm glad that after 8 years away from the hobby, come back and find such nice products is kinda dificult to pick, but after a little of reaserch and talked to Ron I just receive my B5 and can't wait to get it going. And for all the people that are pitching in with test, what work, what doesn't work as well as others (pipes) you guys are very helpful and keeping the thread on the topic, thats a lot to said and I hope to be here soon doing the same. Back to the engine, Looks great, large head, lightweigh. My problem now is what kind of fuel I can use with the same or very close formula to the Werks fuel, I can't find Werks fuel in Western PA, if any body here from this area know, please post it here or pm me.
Thanks to Run for answer all my e-mails, you have a new customer and a other Werks in the track.

Regards
Elvin O.

Try Amainhobbies.com I order from them and it comes out being about 32 bucks shipped per gallon. I consider that reasonable.

Yep, if you buy a case in the end it is still a good price per gallon

I went to A main but they show the fuel by case not by gallon? did you ordered by phone?

Positive, I may end up with a case.

ya, fuel can only be shipped by the case or by the quart. I have friends who will split the price for a case. Makes it easier insted if you cant afford a whole case..

Thanx

HI guys, my 2 new B5 arrived last monday, and one is now ready for break in in my Team Magic Buggy with 053 pipe... I cant wait to feel the power of this engine Ive been reading in this forum!!

My MBX5T truggy got the other B5, by now I have a JP3 for it.

I have a werks clutch.. wondering in which car I may use it, any ideas?

PS. Ive got a problem with one of the B5s... It came with an Oring broken. (one of the carb adjuster), and the other one is that the carb (2010) doesnt fit right, dont come down enough, like 4mm till the oring touch the block.

I open the second B5 and try both carbs and they fit right... seems like the Block of the first one have no tolerance for the carb and I had to remove the white isulation material from the bottom of the carb to make if fit right.

Does anyone have this problem in the new 2010 carb?

My B5 came all together, carb on and everything tight. Is it suppose too? All my others you had to put the carb on and install the orings.

We randomly pull engines from every production run that we get and inspect/assemble them to make sure everything is ok prior to shipping the batch to dealers/customers. It sounds like you got one of the engines that we inspected.

Regards,

Ron

Hello Revo7617, let me start off by saying thank you for picking up our engines. I've read through your comments and unfortunately I do not think that I'm understanding you properly. Can you please clarify what you mean when you say that it came with a carb adjuster with the o-ring broke? What exactly is a carb adjuster? We're you referring to the needle and if so as the o-rings around the needles can not be seen unless the needles are actually completely removed from the carburetor did you notice that an o-ring was broken after you took the carb apart?

Then you mentioned a second issue with the carb sitting flush and something about the second case not having any tolerance for the carb. There are no special tolerances made to the case for the 2010 carb, the cases are all machined exactly the same so I'm not sure that I understand what you are talking about here. You went on to say that you removed the insulation material from the bottom of the carb to make it fit right. On the carbs the insulation material is machined flush with the end of the alloy carb neck (as in it does not extend past the bottom of the alloy carb neck) so they both have exactly the same length so trimming this will have no affect in how far you can extend the carb into the body. There is an o-ring that sits in the case about 4-5mm from the bottom of the opening in the case that the carb neck fits into, this is what seals the carb/case when they are joined. Is it possible that you simply did not push hard enough to seat the o-ring so that the carb neck slides past it lol? Please let me know...

Regards,

Ron

Hy Ron, thanks for your reply.

First of all, excuse my english, Im from Mexico, LOL, so Ill try to explain myself as clear as I can.

I found that the "carb Adjuster" is called the Carb Retainer, with O-Rings on both sides. One of those came broken, like a "C" shape. I just put another one, and fits a little tight, but nothig to worry about.

The second Issue is the carb not sitting flush to the block of the engine. Between the oring and the block, there's like 4mm. I pushed hard enough to the point my finger had marks of the restrictor.

Having that problem, I decided to open the box of my other new B5, to check if the carbs had to be that apart from the block, and my surprise was that the 2nd engine and the carb sit perfect, so I checked the 1rst carb with the 2nd engine and sits perfect. So the problem was the first engine.

I put both carbs in the first engine and they don t fit right (4mm upper than they should be).

I checked both carbs and are exactly the same dimensions. The white insulation plastic is exactly in the same position, flush to the alloy material.

So, I decided to remove about 2mm of the white material in the end of it (like a cone) with a hobby knife, after that, the carb sits perfect in the 1rst engine.

Hope I was clear enough, LOL.

Ron, you got PM.

You were not supposed to remove the white material that is wrapped around the bottom of the cab. I know exactly what your talking about. It looks like a thick plastic ring.

I had the same problem and was thinking that the white ring should come off so that it would fit flush to the block.

I left it alone to think about it and decided that its there for a reason so I didnt remove it.

Yes its a really tight fit. I ended up lubricating the carb where you insert it into the block. I had to give 2 or 3 good squirts of wd-40. Once it was lubed up I was able to get it to sit flush on the block with some really great force and twisting.

I would check for air leaks during break in. You may get lucky though cause the b-5 comes with two o-rings on the carb body. One at the bottom that sits inside the block/port and one that sits on the outside that should be flush on the block.

Hope this helps

REVO 7616

Check out my posts below when I first got the engine and was having troubles on the fit.


[QUOTE=dishsoap;7022861]Never mind. I got it. Just took some extra twisting to get it all the way down. Man its a tight fit. Thats a good thing.

Engine is looking sweeeeeet in my sons buggy. I am jealous.