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Old 02-28-2010 | 07:54 AM
  #1861  
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Originally Posted by Show871
Hey Ron, I was wondering if the slide air gaps discussed in this post are with or without the carb insert installed?

Thanks.....871
Not Ron,but I have been through this before. The gap is without the insert in. With the insert in you shouldnt see any gap at all.
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Old 02-28-2010 | 08:14 AM
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Actually the WERKS clutch is easier to work on than the acendancy. As you only have one spring in the center of the crank shaft and simply a large nut that you tighten on the shaft. You do not have to mess with anything on a WERKS clutch. just set the shoes on the flywheel, set the large spring on the shaft,set the top plate on, and then tighten the large nut. Thats it

Last edited by heidmann1; 02-28-2010 at 08:14 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 02-28-2010 | 08:38 AM
  #1863  
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
Not Ron,but I have been through this before. The gap is without the insert in. With the insert in you shouldnt see any gap at all.
Thanks HD
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Old 02-28-2010 | 10:17 AM
  #1864  
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Default Carb Slide problems on my new B5

Has anyone had problems with the slide binding or sticking on the B5?
Bought a 2nd B5 and started haveing problems with the slide. Pulled it all apart and inspected it but can't find or see anything making it hang but it does. This happend after breaking on about the 9th tank. Went to pull the motor out and install in a different buggy when i discovered this.
Is this something Werks will Cover?
Have no idea what to do?
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Old 02-28-2010 | 11:00 AM
  #1865  
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Originally Posted by ShakenBake
Has anyone had problems with the slide binding or sticking on the B5?
Bought a 2nd B5 and started haveing problems with the slide. Pulled it all apart and inspected it but can't find or see anything making it hang but it does. This happend after breaking on about the 9th tank. Went to pull the motor out and install in a different buggy when i discovered this.
Is this something Werks will Cover?
Have no idea what to do?

I have heard of two instances before where the carb started binding both of which were in Losi's. That vehicle has an unusual servo placement that makes it a little tricky to get the linkage set up correctly. Which vehicle do you have the engine in?

Also in general when this happens with any carb it is caused by the linkage pulling on the slide at an angle. When this happens the slide wants to rotate in the carb body. The only thing that stops this from happening is the idle stop screw which when installed sits inside of a groove which is machined in the slide. with the strength of the servos pulling the slide against the idle stop screw repeatedly small burrs will start to form which will cause the carb to stick. To fix this completely remove the idle stop screw which will allow you to pullthe slide out. Take an x-acto knife and run it against the edge of the idle stop groove at a 45 degree angle to de-burr it. Then clean, put a few drops of after run oil on it and re-install everything. Now test it by hand, if everything moves freely when you pull on the slide by hand you've taken care of it and everything is good to go. Put everything back in the care taking care to make sure the linkage is now pulling strait on the slide and is not trying to rotate it and your good to go.

If the linkage is not set up correctly this will eventualy end up happenig with any carb that you use so guys please take care that when installing engines this is done properly.

Regards,

Ron
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Old 02-28-2010 | 11:01 AM
  #1866  
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Originally Posted by ShakenBake
Has anyone had problems with the slide binding or sticking on the B5?
Bought a 2nd B5 and started haveing problems with the slide. Pulled it all apart and inspected it but can't find or see anything making it hang but it does. This happend after breaking on about the 9th tank. Went to pull the motor out and install in a different buggy when i discovered this.
Is this something Werks will Cover?
Have no idea what to do?
Some people disagree but WD-40 down the carb works great. I have done with nova engines trinity engines and now the b-5. Im not saying to fill the whole thing up a few squirts on the barrel and super smooth.
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Old 02-28-2010 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by heidmann1
Actually the WERKS clutch is easier to work on than the acendancy. As you only have one spring in the center of the crank shaft and simply a large nut that you tighten on the shaft. You do not have to mess with anything on a WERKS clutch. just set the shoes on the flywheel, set the large spring on the shaft,set the top plate on, and then tighten the large nut. Thats it
I wasn't comparing the two, I was just offering another alternative to the spring & clutch nut, style clutches, which are generally a pain for some! As with the Werks clutch, no special tools or flat head screwdrivers are needed for installation.
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Old 02-28-2010 | 03:37 PM
  #1868  
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Originally Posted by ShakenBake
Has anyone had problems with the slide binding or sticking on the B5?
Bought a 2nd B5 and started haveing problems with the slide. Pulled it all apart and inspected it but can't find or see anything making it hang but it does. This happend after breaking on about the 9th tank. Went to pull the motor out and install in a different buggy when i discovered this.
Is this something Werks will Cover?
Have no idea what to do?
From running Losi's, I now always spend a lot of time setting up my throttle alignment, but, I had this problem on my B5 in my Hyper 9. I dremeled the channel like Ron had mentioned but for me it wasn't a complete fix. You might think this is crazy, but with the idle stop screw out and the boot off I held the throttle body in my fingers and spun the engine around helicopter style for about 10 seconds or so. then I cleaned the carb and thr. body with fuel. It's been perfect ever since!

When setting your throttle alignment you should install you engine like it would be race ready(clutch bell and proper mesh). Leave your carb semi loose and attach your linkage. When you pull your carb open with the servo horn it will naturally align itself with the path of least resistance. It will help you find a good "in between" spot for angle and smoothness! And, if you have to change the angle of the ball on the throttle, it is easier to pull the carb off, than the engine!

+1 with what Ron said...It will happen with any engine if not done properly!

Last edited by HyperB5; 02-28-2010 at 07:16 PM. Reason: grammer...or lack there of!
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Old 02-28-2010 | 07:25 PM
  #1869  
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Default Has anyone had problems with the slide binding or sticking on the B5?

I had it in an Associated RC8 when pulled I it out and discovered the problem.
After i pulled the idle screw out the slide would still bind and only seat completely with some force, like it has a tight spot. I used afterrun oil and keep working it back and forth tell it wasn't quit so bad. put it all back together and installed the motor in to a losi buggy. It stuck a few times Friday night making it hard for the boy to drive and i noticed fuel seems to be leaking from the slide boot and now it seems to constantly run fat.

I put my first B5 in my losi truggy and have had no problems.

I'm gonna pull the new B5 carb back out abd check it again to see how bad its still binding. I'll check the idle screw grove and try deburring.

Thanks
Chip
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Old 02-28-2010 | 07:33 PM
  #1870  
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The Losi likes to have the carb boot practically touching the the brakes!
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Old 02-28-2010 | 07:43 PM
  #1871  
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The guys popping up with carb problems. Are they the 2010 B5 or the 2009 and earlier b5. I run a Losi 8T, never had a problem with the 2010 carb. If you run a Losi and running the 2009 carb put a o-ring under the carb like the 2010 carb. It will change how you have to adjust your throttle rod and will alighn a little better. It worked on mine.
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Old 02-28-2010 | 07:50 PM
  #1872  
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I guess nobody likes to put wd-40 down the carb.

I have had the same problem with other engines as well due to running losi.

It has worked every time. It cant hurt.
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Old 02-28-2010 | 08:13 PM
  #1873  
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You know how i fixed the problem?

i bought an RC8B: lol:

Austin is right... people frown on anything as simple as WD40 but it does work, and I've put i dunno how much Wd40 into i dunno how many carbs for years (usually an engine that his been sitting for a while) and it won't hurt anything. Before we had fancy-schmancy 'after run' oil, we used to put a spray in the carb and fire it up.... the propellant burns off and then the lube is left behind
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Old 02-28-2010 | 08:50 PM
  #1874  
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Not to stray from the thread much, but the Split top center diff mount Losi just put out fixes any alignment problems with the carb.

You can run the carb as striaght as you can set it with your eyes and it won't touch the center diff at all, so no worries about tearing your carb boot from bad flex. I run a B7 with no issues at all in my Losi. Also run OS V-Spec and Speeds with no issues on the linkage.
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Old 02-28-2010 | 09:10 PM
  #1875  
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Originally Posted by RJNicholson
Not to stray from the thread much, but the Split top center diff mount Losi just put out fixes any alignment problems with the carb.

You can run the carb as striaght as you can set it with your eyes and it won't touch the center diff at all, so no worries about tearing your carb boot from bad flex. I run a B7 with no issues at all in my Losi. Also run OS V-Spec and Speeds with no issues on the linkage.
Very good recommendation. Darn thing is close to a c note though and its always out of stock.

looks pretty bling too.
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